In Deep…

[mtcruze]

I went this route in my 100 since I rarely use the rear heater. The nice thing is that it's 100% reversible if I ever do go back to it.

For those who want to keep it, I've got lots of heater tee & hose kits in stock at the moment. Sold out of the delete kits for now but more are on their way from Japan.

I even developed a delete kit for the 200 because many guys have to delete the rear heater to fit big tires.

View attachment 4113646
Above^ 100 heater tee delete kit in '99 LX470

I’ve been on your vendor site a lot lately, haha! Thanks for your input. Is there any harm in this delete if parts of the car are then inactive for a time and the delete is reversed?

 

[2001LC]

Hey y’all,
Long time lurker, first time Land Cruiser owner. Looks like an introduction is recommended for a first timer, so here goes mine.

Recently bought a 2007 Land Cruiser 100 with 275000 miles on it, and I got it at a discount because it needed so much work. The three previous owners kept up with oil changes and some of the other routine fluids, but otherwise, the truck has 20 year-old truck maintenance needs. There was a pretty significant oil leak that left oil all over the underside of the engine that I suspected was valve cover gaskets that had never been changed. The CV axle boots were leaking and caked with grease. The radiator had a two time history of coolant issues that needed new radiators. The wheel hub bearings have only been changed and greased one time in its life as far as I can tell from the maintenance records. So, knowing that I would probably put about 6 or $7000 into the car for new parts, I got it for $7000. Probably overpriced with the amount of work that it needed, but I’m pretty handy and I enjoy fixing things. Thus far, i’m at $7500 and I have done the following to rebaseline the vehicle:

Power steering pump
Water pump
Fan clutch
Timing belt
All of the pulleys (all of them)
Hydraulic tensioner
Serpentine belt
All the rubber hoses that I can get my hands on without being a contortionist
Valve cover gaskets
Spark plug gaskets
Spark plugs
New radiator
New steering rack
Tie rod ends
Front wheel hub bearings changed and repacked with grease
Inner knuckle dust seals
New CV axle boots but kept the old CV axles
New hub flanges
New hub flange studs
New flange, nuts, and washers
New snap rings for CV axles
New oil cooler adapter. (can’t remember the exact name for this)
New “8-ring” for the oil cooler assembly
New O-ring for the oil cooler assembly
Front upper ball joint dust boots
Front stabilizer bar cushions and all front differential bushings
Intake manifold, gaskets
Rubber hoses for the secondary air injection system (the original ones had turned to plastic)
All associated fluids


Future things that I have parts for or am planning on doing:

New control arm bushings, front and rear upper and lower
Rear wheel bearings
Repair whatever is wrong with the sunroof (that’s gonna take some time)
Change the rear differential fluid
Possibly replace the vinyl reupholstered driver and passenger seat (the last owner had them reupholstered, but if I can get some leather seats in good condition for not too much, I might swap them if someones got ‘em)


Things that I wouldn’t mind some advice on:

The third row does not get hot air when the heater is on. I suspect that there’s probably something wrong with the heater cord, but this isn’t something that I have dived into just yet. I flushed gently the heater cores with distilled water by hooking up In and Out lines at the heater tees before they bifurcate.

Flush with D-water is what should be used, if flushing. But now you have D-water mixed in system. If block drained and not blown out. You'd have about 1 gallon of D-water, with 3 gallons of Toyota SSL (pink) I suggest re-flushing, draining block and blowing out. Within next 30K miles or 2 year, sooner better.

Note:
Make very sure radiator is filled right to the top.

Didn’t get anything weird looking out of that. It now has new pink coolant too.

No heat comes from headliner vents. They're rear AC only. Rear heat is to second row only, vents out from under center console.

I’ve read in some posts that if the starter seems original (it looks like it) that it should be changed prophylactically. Curious about the wisdom of doing this versus just having a spare on hand versus changing it preemptively before my first remote overland trip.\

Not a bad idea:

• Consider new fuel injector bottom seal, while IM off.
• A must: S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/s-a-i-filter-modification-in-vvt-engines-to-prevent-its-failure-alert-alert.1271108/

.

I’ve also snapped a number of wire harness connectors because it’s a Texas car and while we don’t have rust issues, everything dries out. Wondering if folks eventually crimp new connectors on or go the RTV route like I’ve done.

Replace them. Each has a 5 numbers (suffix, of part number), add that to prefix 90980-*****

If there any other preemptive maintenance I should consider, happy to read suggestions. As y’all can tell, I’m pretty comfortable doing stuff in my driveway—even if my HOA is not.

Heater core*

BTW:
Your power steering fluid (ATF) reservoir and Toyota brake fluid reservoir are both over filled.

 

[cruiserpatch]

I’ve been on your vendor site a lot lately, haha! Thanks for your input. Is there any harm in this delete if parts of the car are then inactive for a time and the delete is reversed?

There will still be coolant left in the rear heat exchanger. You'll want to flush it completely if you ever do reverse it but I wouldn't recommend leaving it without coolant in there. Would corrode internally.

 

[mtcruze]

Flush with D-water is what should be used, if flushing. But now you have D-water mixed in system. If block drained and not blown out. You'd have about 1 gallon of D-water, with 3 gallons of Toyota SSL (pink) I suggest re-flushing, draining block and blowing out. Within next 30K miles or 2 year, sooner better.

Note:
Make very sure radiator is filled right to the top.

No heat comes from headliner vents. They're rear AC only. Rear heat is to second row only, vents out from under center console.

Not a bad idea:

• Consider new fuel injector bottom seal, while IM off.
• A must: S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/s-a-i-filter-modification-in-vvt-engines-to-prevent-its-failure-alert-alert.1271108/

.

Replace them. Each has a 5 numbers (suffix, of part number), add that to prefix 90980-*****

BTW:
Your power steering fluid (ATF) reservoir and Toyota brake fluid reservoir are both over filled.

Thanks for the detailed tips. I’ve been wondering about that sais. I’ll get to those injectors after my next paycheck. As for fluids, reservoir levels are corrected though I’m likely to do another change of the coolant in the next 10000 miles because the brake fluid needs changing anyways. This car has a history of some cooling issues, so I might reduce the maintenance interval in general after this next change.

There will still be coolant left in the rear heat exchanger. You'll want to flush it completely if you ever do reverse it but I wouldn't recommend leaving it without coolant in there. Would corrode internally.

Good to know, Patch. I’m not gonna lie, I’ve been eyeing the brass tees purely because I like the idea of a robust OE replacement. Shockingly, we might actually put some humans in that third row a few times a year, so I’m gonna keep the delete in my back pocket for now.

On another note, anyone know what these empty harnesses are for? Doubtless for some feature I don’t have. First two are of the same empty harnesses (just aft of the power steering fluid reservoir) and the third is just aft of the fuse box in the driver side.

 

[discoverydave]

On the seat question -- I have pulled the stock Toyota leather out of a few 100s and put them back into other rigs. The OEM leather on the later 100 series (2002+) holds up really well if it has been looked after. The vinyl reupholstery the previous owner did might actually be fine structurally, just look at whether the foam underneath is still decent. You can press on the bolsters -- if it bottoms out or feels chunky and uneven, the foam has gone. That is usually the bigger issue than the cover material.

If you do swap seats, the later 100 seats with the power lumbar and cooling are a direct bolt-in to the same floor rails. Wiring connector is the same too. I have done this swap twice and both times went in without drama. Junkyard seats from a clean 2005-2007 are worth it if the price is right -- the leather just outlasts everything else in these trucks.

 

[Deflagrate]

On another note, anyone know what these empty harnesses are for? Doubtless for some feature I don’t have. First two are of the same empty harnesses (just aft of the power steering fluid reservoir) and the third is just aft of the fuse box in the driver side.

Pretty sure those are for AHC, that space is where the reservoir is on AHC equipped models. Great spot for a second battery since you don't.

 

[mtcruze]

On the seat question -- I have pulled the stock Toyota leather out of a few 100s and put them back into other rigs. The OEM leather on the later 100 series (2002+) holds up really well if it has been looked after. The vinyl reupholstery the previous owner did might actually be fine structurally, just look at whether the foam underneath is still decent. You can press on the bolsters -- if it bottoms out or feels chunky and uneven, the foam has gone. That is usually the bigger issue than the cover material.

If you do swap seats, the later 100 seats with the power lumbar and cooling are a direct bolt-in to the same floor rails. Wiring connector is the same too. I have done this swap twice and both times went in without drama. Junkyard seats from a clean 2005-2007 are worth it if the price is right -- the leather just outlasts everything else in these trucks.

I'm going to sweep the junkyards every now and then to see what I can find. I would *love* to have some cooling since Houston is hot and humid as crap for much of the year. Right now, I only got heated seats and that's not....very useful. I know the "ridies" seat covers would run me about ~$800 for both front seats, wrinkled, and the center console, so if the junkyard can beat that, I'm in. I think the prior owner put in some new foam, because it's kind of stiff, but I don't know if the vinyl is contributing to that a bit.

Pretty sure those are for AHC, that space is where the reservoir is on AHC equipped models. Great spot for a second battery since you don't.

I'm excited to put a second one in. I know there are a couple of good brands, but for now, I built a super ghetto battery system for my fridge in my explorer by running some welding wire (6 gauge) from the engine battery to a board with all the fuses, a Victron DC-DC charger and a 100ah LiTime battery to power my fridge. LiTime battery was really good price for a battery with a BMS at the time and is fine for my basic purposes then since I didn't have room under the explorer hood for a second battery. Probably adapt that system eventually for the cruiser and solar charging. I got a grand plan for a diy roof rack and tent with some integrated solar panels.