Reading your post & it's amazing that things turned out so well. Love the new build. What is the flash lihght holder? Did you buy or invent?
Mike
Mike
Builds Imperial Land Cruiser II Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter car-car
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That light is very cool well. Where can one get one of those?
To clarify the cool light I am referring to the one that is on the inside and has bendy material as the post or pole.
Looks like a Hella Map Light.
Amazon.com: hella maplight
BTW - Nice build car-car. Glad to see everything is working out.
Hey carcar
I had a question on your springs? You say you have 4" Js springs, but the OME table shows the 863 J springs are 3". Did you ad mm spacers for the front/rear. I have 419 OME 4" comp springs from ARB and 863J 3" springs for the rear. I just lifted my cruiser this past Sunday and the heights are different from yours. Thank you and your rig looks great.
I had a question on your springs? You say you have 4" Js springs, but the OME table shows the 863 J springs are 3". Did you ad mm spacers for the front/rear. I have 419 OME 4" comp springs from ARB and 863J 3" springs for the rear. I just lifted my cruiser this past Sunday and the heights are different from yours. Thank you and your rig looks great.
- Thread starter
- #46
You are correct, it is a Hella Map Light, installed by the PO. I love that thing, its great. I actually like the lighting better than the factory map light with LED bulbs (which is plenty bright).
Thanks for the kind words.
- Thread starter
- #47
You could very well be right. I went off of what the PO had told me on those. I am thinking about swapping the suspension from the wrecked one (if everything is straight and undamaged), since it was a 2.5 and setup nicely for an expo rig, and it was brand new and I really like how it rode and handled. That would be a project down the line though.
- Thread starter
- #48
Next on the list was to apply Durabak. I really liked how the old rig was lined (on the hood and on the flares), so I wanted to do the same on this one. The old rig had been Line-X'd, which probably would be my preference, if not for the price. I ended up doing the hood, the flares, the rocker panels, and the bottom part of the doors. I'm happy with how it turned out. Gives it a unique look. Got the flares mounted back up tonight.
What kind of prep work did you do before putting the durabak on? I've been thinking about doing the same to my flares (yes, I'm in the minority that think the rig actually looks better with the flares).
This is coming along nicely, looking great with the liner! I second the previous comment as to prep-work, I'm still considering doing mine..
- Thread starter
- #55
Thanks guys. As for the prep work, I removed the fender flares, sanded down the areas I wanted to paint to rough up the surface, cleaned all the surfaces I was going to paint, and let it dry overnight in the garage. Next day, masked everything off and covered up the sliders (I loosened them up and let them hang down some), rather than removing them, and started rolling it on with the special roller that it comes with. I used "frog" masking tape (available at Home Depot) since I had heard from some that it was supposed to prevent bleeding and give good straight lines. I did three coats on the hood, two coats on the flares and rocker and lower door panels. I also put one coat on my homemade cargo drawers since I had the paint.
Oh, and make sure you pull the masking tape off right after you apply the last coat. I read enough horror stories of people not pulling it off while it was still wet.
I am also in process of salvaging my snorkel from the roll-over rig. It was pretty stratched up, but in tact with a couple minor cracks. I sanded down all of the major scratches on the snorkel, filled the cracks with kitchen/bath caulking and sanded down once dry, and then put two coats of Durabak on the snorkel, so once I get it installed, it (hopefully) will not look salvaged to the casual observer.
Oh, and make sure you pull the masking tape off right after you apply the last coat. I read enough horror stories of people not pulling it off while it was still wet.
I am also in process of salvaging my snorkel from the roll-over rig. It was pretty stratched up, but in tact with a couple minor cracks. I sanded down all of the major scratches on the snorkel, filled the cracks with kitchen/bath caulking and sanded down once dry, and then put two coats of Durabak on the snorkel, so once I get it installed, it (hopefully) will not look salvaged to the casual observer.
Is it an insane thought to Durabek one's whole truck? Knowing that your not too worried about paint aesthetics?
shermantank55
SILVER Star
Plenty of info on that. See https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/404567-lining-whole-rig-als.html ; https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/400405-lined-my-80-tan.html and https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/456614-introducing-fzj-80-dingo.html
All used Al's liner. I rolled it on, as did Plutonius. Ardentyota sprayed his on.
Mechanical rotary sander or hand-sanding? Grit type?
- Thread starter
- #59
I hand sanded it. Used one of those 3M sanding pads from one of the local Kragen/O'Reilly shops. It said it was for paint prep / body work. I would guess it probably was an 80 - 100 grit. I just wanted to rough it up some so it would adhere. I'm sure the paint prep purists will weigh in on the proper way to do it, but we'll see how it holds up for me.
Definitely spring for the extra amount to get the Durabak product with UV protection.
