Immobilizer transponder chip registering. Stuck in registration mode. HELP! (1 Viewer)

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So how do I now get the Valet and the new Master chips register?
Tech stream would not come out of registration, and seems no immobilizers transponder chips are registered.


Edited 9/20/19 Just needed to use the master during exiting process. Sub (Valet) will not work to exit!

Here's the story:

With only a working Valet key to work with. I used it to enter tech stream registration utility.

After entering Tech Stream and going through the processes of obtaining a seed number (96 chars) to get a 6 digit Pass-code from this web interface: LEXUS, SCION, TOYOTA PASSCODE CALCULATOR / GENERATOR: Calculate Pass-code by Seed number | Immobilizer Pincode Calculator (official website)
Then inputting the pass-code into tech stream immobilizer registration utility within 10 minutes. It starter the 16 minute timer as it proceeded with registering process. I used the only key working key I had: The Valet key in IC switch ON, drive door open and unlock all others closed.

In the end it gave option to register chip, by inserting key, turn IG on. I could not add the master shell key w/FOB (which includes transponder chip), at this time as I'd hoped. I had it, but not yet had it cut. Plan "was" to just insert the tip of the key and register it without inserting all the way on turning IG on. But tech stream require inserting and turning IG on.

So I elected to end registration with Valet still in IG. Hope was Valet was now register as master. If so, then once I got the master shell key cut (w/Door FOB), I could come back, and avoid the retrieval process to get a pass-code, and just register a new immobilizer chip (the master shell w/FOB).

To end registration:
Tech Stream utility stated to turn IG ON then OFF 5 time within 10 seconds to end registration. I did but security light kept blinking with key in IG. I removed key and security light stay lite solid. Tech stream did not indicate registration had ended as "next" did not highlight.
I tried procedure with driver door open and with door closed.
I tried shutting down tech stream.
I tired disconnecting battery, then reconnecting.
Still security light kept blink with key in IG and stay lite solid with key out.
If I place tip of uncut master in IG, security lite started blink as door open chime sounded.

I tried starting engine with Valet key, and that worked.

Looking in "Data stream" of immobilizer in tech stream, it does not show any key register now. How can that be?

I tried starting again. But now battery was to low at 11.4V (tech stream noted a minimum of 8V needed). So I disconnected battery again and place a charger on it.

Meantime, while battery charging. I headed out to get new master key cut:
I end up at a top notch locksmith, not some one man in a van! One, with a dozen or so employee and a $10K laser key identifying and cutting machine. This machine does not clone a key by tracing it. It reads the key and then with manufacturer information it downloads and stores, cuts a new key. That way if you bring in a worn out key, it will cut new as if using VIN at the Dealership or using and unused prefect key as a clone.

Well this did not go well. I heard the second tech that got involved say something about it was loose (speaking about a bit in the machine "I think"). Other tech said: "I wonder how that happen". They told me it (key) should work, but let them know if I've any issue. Well it did work but not well. Ill post picture below, and you tell me what you think of new cut?

Anyway I got home and pulled charge off and hooked battery cables back up. Security light still solid. Try the newly cut key and with difficult got in the IG switch and security light still blinks. With new master key in IG switch and started the 07 LX470. But Immobilizer still blink with key in.

Seems immobilizer is immobilized. That is with no key registered or so it seems. Any cut key will start it the engine.

So how do I now get the Valet and the new Master chips register?

At this point I'm not even sure if the new door FOB has a proper LX470 transponder chip in-bedded. As it is a refurbish FOB (used) I just bough from Locksmith KeyLess out of FL. FOB does work to open doors.

Here's the FOB. All numbers on the FOB match my 06LXC FOB, except the number at the bottom "06H2d"
FOB HYQ 12BBT, 48040 06H2d from Locksmith Keyless 06-07LX (1).JPG
FOB HYQ 12BBT, 48040 06H2d from Locksmith Keyless 06-07LX (5).JPG

Here's the Valet and the newly cut master. What do you think, does that look like the same cut?
017.JPG
 
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e9999

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no, they don't look to be the same cut, I see significant differences. Now, whether that should matter, I don't know.
 

abuck99

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Maybe the USB cable you have ( your tech stream mongoose connector) is faulty, or not performing as required- as such is affecting the programming. Or the version of Techstream you have isn't supported. (8.00.034 to 14.10.033) I know my version is of 7.0 range and prob wouldn't work with that pass code generator.

"Smart Code Reset will take up to 16 minutes. If the code isn't accepted because of defective USB extension cable, low battery, electronic glitch, unuseful key etc. then re-use your same token until you succeed. When using this service your token will be linked with the VIN, so if the connection losses for previously mentioned reasons then you can repeat PASS-Code calculation for FREE."
 
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Mauser

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They did a lousy job cutting that key. I can do a lot better job with my $170 Chinese machine. I am surprised it will turn the cylinder. When you get a new key cut it is best to work it in the door cylinder a few times before putting it in the ignition switch. This will allow it to wear in a little and the door locks are cheaper to replace if the key messes up the lock.

I did a little reading last night. Instead of cycling the ignition switch 5 times some Toyotas require you to push the brake pedal 5 times in less than ten seconds to get out of auto registration mode.

You might also try another key. The registration mode will close by itself after you register 3 keys.

Ill check today and see if I have a new shell and another remote key to send you
 
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no, they don't look to be the same cut, I see significant differences. Now, whether that should matter, I don't know.
no not same cut at all....
I agree. Old has high spot new does not among other difference. If old valet was worn out it would not have the high spots. Also the inner flat surface looks like bit came down on it and penetrated too different levels. I'm so sorry I didn't just go to Lexus. They would have sold me a new shell for $50 and cut for free. Additionally they would give me the keys code (same code that come on the metal tag with OM packet) I just was on other side of town and had not heard form my parts guy at Lexus yet, and darn if I did not get cell coverage while at the locksmith trying too call him a second time. They owe me a shell and my money back if they can't do better.
Maybe the USB cable you have ( your tech stream mongoose connector) is faulty, or not performing as required- as such is affecting the programming. Or the version of Techstream you have isn't supported. (8.00.034 to 14.10.033) I know my version is of 7.0 range and prob wouldn't work with that pass code generator.

"Smart Code Reset will take up to 16 minutes. If the code isn't accepted because of defective USB extension cable, low battery, electronic glitch, unuseful key etc. then re-use your same token until you succeed. When using this service your token will be linked with the VIN, so if the connection losses for previously mentioned reasons then you can repeat PASS-Code calculation for FREE."
I too am thinking that may be and issue. But even since I took your advise and dedicated this PC to just Tech Stream not allowing online, it's worked fine. It is the 32 bit rated (not 64 bit) win XP cable. But the second gen as I recall. I look closer at version. I'm thinking about another that is 64 bit and using on the win 10 64 bit PC my son bought me for fathers day.

I'm also concerned the low battery may have played a part. I had the door open key on for a long time trying to get the seed code and working through this, But it did start after I tried to end reg. At that point I hooked up my charge and it read about 11.4V. Minimum is 8V to do the job. But still I've some concern.r
They did a lousy job cutting that key. I can do a lot better job with my $170 Chinese machine. I am surprised it will turn the cylinder. When you get a new key cut it is best to work it in the door cylinder a few times before putting it in the ignition switch. This will allow it to wear in a little and the door locks are cheaper to replace if the key messes up the lock.

I did a little reading last night. Instead of cycling the ignition switch 5 times some Toyotas require you to push the brake pedal 5 times in less than ten seconds to get out of auto registration mode.

You might also try another key. The registration mode will close by itself after you register 3 keys.

Ill check today and see if I have a new shell and another remote key to send you
First, thanks again for all your help yesterday. "Sorry" for taking up so much of your time!

I did try in doors (first as locksmith recommended) and works a little better their but not as it should. Key at first works poorly and after a few uses a little better. Than valet not as well at first then better. Seems pins jamming by using it and drag on case of tumbler. I too am surprised it works at all.

I'll give the brake peddle 5 times in 10 seconds, a try latter to day after I give battery more time to charge. Following tech Stream like all software is not with out its instructional errors.

I was looking at some Locksmith YouTube last night and saw a programming device they use. They said sometime one programmer device will work on a car, and than on identical car it will not. That they carry two different types as one will work. They've know idea why, it just is.

I had spent a great deal of time registering the door FOB, added to batteries drain. As I mention to you on the phone, that was Challenging. Just for others reading this I'll highlight the fun: The "fun" in it that was two fold. I had found the receive was dead. As it turned-out, the 10A dome fuse was blown and the receive is on that circuit. Then I found Amazon seller, like all Amazon and ebay sellers, have their Chinese door FOB's listed as working in 03-07 LX. They are wrong. I now know, 06-07 have a different transmitter with a frequency of: The HYQ 12BBT Denso vs HYQ1512 of the older models. Now I need to hope the transponder chip in-bedded is for the LX. As I said it is a refurbished door FOB from a Locksmith and did register with door receiver and works. But if it's from Toyota may not. I've still concerned they could have different chips in-bedded, but this has all been above of pat grade. Learning everyday is good right!. Yesterdays test was to determine if chip worked, before I cut the shell/key. Darn!

Car 12V Battery is a concern:
It's not reached 13 + volt yet (a March 2019 27F battery). The battery positive post clamp, when I bough this LX recently had some nasty hard white acid build up within clamp. It may have not been getting fully charged and sulfated. I had pulled clamp and the batteries main wire block apart and cleaned. But battery may have already be damaged. My charge is stated to repair this condition so I keep working it for now.

Man that would be above and beyond sending me a remote. I'll PM my email for contact info. Thank you so much.
 
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One of my big concerns, at the moment is, if I get out of registration mode. If no key register. I'd be in a no start condition.

But perhaps that is what is going on now. That because of no key register it's in fail-safe. Could their be such a thing?

Could it take a different procedure now to re-enter and register?
 

AimCOtaco

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Seems that a zero key failsafe could be a thing or as you suggest maybe it's a different initialized mode that requires a different approach now that it has been "defaulted"...
Guessing this is a later model if you can generate codes without a master and the negative key cut. What year?
 
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Hello @AimCOtaco, my friend up North! It is a 2007 LX470.

One reason I started this thread is to see if anyone knows of another "approach". I can hardly imagine I'm the first to have this happen!

I can't think of anything else that would allow any key to start it. But to make sure just any key, I tried to start with my newly (today) cut key shell w/out FOB, no other keys/chip near it (4 feet away). Surprisingly it would not start just cranked.
Tried the Valet and it stated.
Tried shell key (no chip) with Valet key and FOB about 12" away, it would not start.
Tried shell key and my LC key press up to IG ring, it would not start.
Tried shell key and new refurbished FOB press up against IG ring, it started.
Tried shell key w/FOB in, it started.
So seems it must have one of the two chip I have for Lexus, that had and they must be very close. In-fact unless chip in key, even close was finicky.
But once a key w/chip started it, chip can be removed and it can be started and stopped without chip even in the area. provide key not removed from IG.

I do like the tough cases, as I learn more that way. But sometimes it gets frustrating.

Interesting the door FOB will not allow all registered FOB erased. It retains the code of FOB used to erases at minimum. Would have thought the same here in immobilizer. But it appears instead, a fail-safe is to shut down immobilizer. Will be interesting when I get the chip form @Mauser for the Lexus of same year range. To see if that works unregistered. At least this would confirm it either needs to be the right year range Lexus or must have been one I was first working with. This is all interesting but isn't getting issue solved.


My guess:

1) I messed up procedural. Possibly, but not likely, as I just did as tech stream instructed as to when and what. @Mauser was on phone with me at the time, and did said "no don't yet". But then he realized the 16 minutes where up and tech stream instructed me to do the next step.

2) Glitch in USB mini VCI cable, possibly. But rarely drop connection, "Retry" window pops up when it does, which didn't happen. I went back and double check version. I'm 10.00.028 which is in the list of supported.

3) Low voltage, amps or glitch within the 07LX system. Possible, but voltage was above the only minimum I saw in erasure of 8V procedure. When I checked at 11.4V with my charger later after starting for a moment, then attempting to start.

But must be way out of this condition safely. Last thing I'd want now is to hit brake pedal 5 times and exit mode without a chip registered, and too come out of this so called fail-safe. If immobilizer does not activate, I'd be stuck with rig in the shop.

I've got and interesting cases coming in the morning, that I'd like shop for. Water entry from bad windshield install. The windshield wipers go on auto when it snows, rains or car wash with wipers switched off. So I'll keep cycling battery charge for now and wait until after job and I've got the 07LX back in the shop. Oh did I mention I've a CAT off. Going to be so loud pulling out of shop. Sound like my GTO when I'd uncap the headers..LOL

I'm going to go back to FSM and Toyota educational stuff and see what I find. But the Toyota Education stuff deals more with smart keys form what I've seen. I'll do this while battery is "still" charging, which may take days of cycling to correct it..

Obtained the Key cutting code from lexus:

I stop by Lexus Dealership this morning, talked with my wholesale parts guy to get key code for cutting key, based on VIN #. I just had to document ownership. I spoke to him about issue, asking if he's heard of a fail-safe mode or not have any key register. He had not. Said guys in shop mess up coding all the time and just re-do. But then they have the $2K Toyota handhelds diagnostic tools to enter Tech Stream. When I grow up I want one..LOL

Stop by Locksmith and had key re-cut with code in hand from Lexus. Much better but still a poor job. Seems they had a bad code and the machine needs servicing. But it works much better, but not as smooth as valet.

Today's cut on (left) based on VIN # key code from Lexus Dealership. Better match, but has deeper and longer cuts indicating their machine need serving. Guy basically told me this is the case.
006.JPG


Sometimes jobs just go like this. Others things just fall into place. That's life!
 
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May as well show what I feel damaged new battery. I did this oh about 2 months ago, along with new OEM gas cap and fuel pump R&R. Interesting case I'll write up one day.

Seems new battery installed in march 2019. But baking soda neutralizing and may never had been done to vehicle in it's history. Acid (white cake) was deep into clamp and interior of terminal junction box. I kept hitting with baking soda and it keep fizzing. So I ended up tearing it all down and recondition.. The issue of resistance going up with corrosion and oxidation is something I think effects many system. Each new generation seems more and more sensitive to electronics working within tighter amp and tighter range.. 200 series now recommends removing battery clamps when charging, as of damage to electronics concerns.

Dealership has washed engine compartment (wish they hadn't). But I suspected they did not neutralize acid. Looks good, but I want to make sure, any acid washing down was neutralized.

I must have use 2 pound of bake soda, in three days before I took this picture
014.JPG

First tried brushing off cake. But end up tearing down.
016.JPG

019.JPG

022.JPG

Cleaned up and back together. First time I've done this.
023.JPG
 
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FWIW.
Security light:
Solid ------------------------- key out.
Blinks twice then pause ..-..-..-..- key in. Should be off!

In tech stream active test mode, security light
Blinks once then pauses .-.-.-.-.-.- in ON test mode.
blinks twice then pause..-..-..-..-..-.. in off test mode. Should be off!


Here's diagnostic code B2796. First I saw this.
002.JPG

003.JPG

Here data list:
004.JPG

005.JPG

006.JPG
 
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Is that snapshot of your datalist with your valet key in? I read thru your posts but I'm a little lost what you are now trying to diagnose. I think you went wrong at step one. You didn't have a master key inserted at the beginning of the reseed process. From what I remember that kind of sets up the rest of the procedure for success. Reseeding in general is a pain. I am the only one at my dealership that does them because the steps and inherent complexity involved require patience. I will try to re read your posts and see if I can make heads or tails of the 3 keys you used...
 
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My recommendation is to try reseeding again with a master key. In the datalist you pictured, immobilizer is unset. What is confusing is that there is no master or sub key recognized at the time the immobilizer is unset, indicated by both master and sub key being "unreg" or not recognized as being inserted in the key cylinder. It is like it doesn't know where it is. Which is why I recommend starting over. Did cycling the key or the brake pedal kick it out of auto registration?
 
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Thanks for stopping in @thabruiser. Cycling IG on and off did not work. I've yet to try cycling brake pedal. But will in day or two.

I do get long winded, sorry. Let see if I can clear up.

I started with only a valet (sub) only, as I don't have any master or flat key in box. 07LX came in without any thing but Valet.

Entered Tech Stream Immobilizer interface with Valet.
009.JPG

The system requires a master to use "Key registration", which I don't have. Would have been so easy!
019.JPG

So I used the Immobilizer Code Reset function with Valet key to get the 96 seed char. Inputted that in web page posted in OP.
To get a pass code and inputted it.
020.JPG

Timer began an instructed me to wait 16 minutes. Which I did without changing a thing. I waited until instructed otherwise.

I had a shell key with FOB (door remote). But key was not yet cut, so I could not insert in IG and turn on as required by instruction to register. Also FOB came from third party as recondition. It was unknown if good transponder chip and for a Lexus. Only knew it did work on doors. That another store and the second FOB I was working with.

So I first registered (or so I thought) the valet key as following tech streams instructions. Hope was to make it a master. That way I could just use registration procedure next time, when I did have master shell key cut by locksmith.

The reason you see three keys, is locksmith cut first shell wrong. So had to get code from Lexus and have him cut a second shell for my FOB today.

Anyway after registering the valet (or so thought it was) tried just holding the uncut key slightly in IG switch until door charm sounded. This should be enough to active immobilize transponder transmitter AMP attach to IG switch and read chip in-bedded in FOB, or was the hope. But tech stream instructed to turn IG on with key, which could not be done with uncut key. So was a hale-marry try to see if it would work. At this point Tech stream gave option to exit. By turning key on and off 5 times, within 10 seconded to exit.

So I inserted the only key capable of this (Valet) and turned IG on and off 5 time. System would not exit.
Try with door open, tried with door close. Tried fast, tried slow. Tied exiting for 30 minutes or so, before decided to see if exiting Tech stream would shut down registration. It did, but did not change security with lights. Now I'd need pass code to re-enter, which would need to be obtain aging.

So then tried starting engine with valet key, to see if it would. It started. Later tried starting again, but battery had drop down to 11.4V and engine would not crank over. Security lights indicated system not working correctly; solid light key out, blinking key in. So check data in immobilizer screen (seen posted above) which indicated no key registered.

At this point needed to charge battery, and want to see if disconnect battery would reboot. Hope was Valet would be sub as it was in first place or better yet all good and had a master. Nothing changed. Nothing registered.

While battery charging, headed off to do stuff and get shell key cut.

After a few hour of battery charging and now with shell key cut (although badly), tried again. Obtained pass code but system will not go into countdown. Tried again with Valet key that I first got in with in first place. Obtain seed, obtained a new pass-code, inputted. But again, system will not go into count down. Try many times with both key now, but code not get in. Called it a day putting charger back on post, clamps off.

Today I got the keys code by VIN # from Lexus. Took back to locksmith. They now cut a better key, said they code they had was very different. They had no idea why. New key worked good (not great). Both Valet and new shell key with FOB in it, start the 07LX engine.

But security light is sold key out, and blinking key in. Date show no key registered (Master Unreg, Sub Unreg) But engine does start.

To show you how patience I am. I had two 17 inch note book PCs, i used to get 96 seed char than input into the second PC which was connected to the internet. I did not have room in cabin to do side by side PC to type. So my head and eyes had to keep turning to see than input seed in web decoder. I had planned on copying and transporting to other PC on USB key, so I'd not have errors and make the 10 minute window easy. But PC with Tech Stream is old win XP, I can't connect to internet or Tech stream will shut down. XP would not allow copy and pasted. So i hunt and pecked in 96 char about a million billion times to get those pass-codes imputted in 10 minutes and start timer. Then came back and tried both keys again, 2 million billion times more to get every char right in 10 minutes. That is patience!;)

They only thing I've not tried is brake pedal as you and early @Mauser suggested.

That will need to wait until I finish a electric gremlins hunt and repair from windshield leak on a 01LX coming in the morning. Appears to be LH J/B. will see.

Hope that brake cycling works when I get back to it, and keys or at-least Valet still works when I due. That it allow me back into registration at that point if needed. One thing for sure I'm learning something new and the finer detail off it!

I brought up battery because I've had some other electric issue I've worked through and because it ran low which could effect the procedure. Now found new battery is in poor condition and I'm condition now.
 
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I hope that brake pedal works for you. For future reference, you cannot change the hierarchy of a key. They are always a sub or a master. One cannot be made to be another. A sub is always grey in color. A master is always black or with a built-in fob.
 

Mauser

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I hope that brake pedal works for you. For future reference, you cannot change the hierarchy of a key. They are always a sub or a master. One cannot be made to be another. A sub is always grey in color. A master is always black or with a built-in fob.

On any model with a 4C chip (1998-2002) the grey key can be made into a master.

@2001LC I was wrong and just confirmed what @thabruiser said. With the 4D chip the grey key can only be a sub. I tried to add a new Lexus sub key as a master to my GX and was only able to register as a sub.

I am sending you a key with a remote, a key with no remote (but has Lexus master keytag), and a couple of Lexus master keytags to try. I really do think that if you have 3 keys to add you will be able to end registration mode.

A few weeks ago I helped another member reseed his LX. He wasn't able to do it with Techstream version 10. He ended up having to download version 12 to make it work.
 
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Thanks for clarifying about the older subs. I was unaware any could be made masters. Must be before my time, as I have never been able to make a sub a master.
 

Mauser

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Thanks for clarifying about the older subs. I was unaware any could be made masters. Must be before my time, as I have never been able to make a sub a master.

I was certain that I added the original grey valet as a master on my GX, but must be wrong since the new valet cant be made a master. I will try to test it later, but it is wired under the truck and the bottom of the truck is caked with mud.
 
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Thanks guys for the help.

@Mauser that is so kind of you and helpful. Above and beyond!

Some more question?

When cycling brake pedal 5 time, what state do I have vehicle in?
Such as door & IG switch, i.e drive door open or closed, locked or unlock, key in IG, IG on or off or just cycle pedal in any state.

Could I be shut out of tech stream and engine start with no working key?
So what do you think. Brake pedal gets system out of reg mode (exits) and it will have the sub and the master register. Or back to where I started and just the sub (Valet) working or shut out with no working key at all. My biggest concern at moment, is I getting system to normalize by cycling brake pedal 5 times, and then no keys chips registered. Than I can't get in tech stream or engine started. Hope this acts as door FOB receiver and keeps last or key used in reg.

Do you think it took (registered) my master shall key w/FOB. Or is just now recognizing as a usable chip in this "fail safe" state?
When I just pressed into IG slot with uncut shall key w/FOB, but not able to turning IG on as TS instructed. Did transponder it read the chip and registration it. Now, that is why both old Valet and new cut shell w/FOB start the engine. Or is it just that it's now sees as a workable chip and allowing in this state.

So you're thinking it was possibly my tech stream version 10, that kept system from exiting and completing registration?
Possible gave me wrong instruction (cycling IG) or did I mess up or could vehicle have a fault.

Is the DTC B2796 I'm now seeing, likely just do to not getting exited and state systems is now in or is it more likely I've a fault?
Similar happen while programming in the door remote. It ended up being two fold issue. The FOB was wrong transmitter for the year (Amazon seller wrongly listed as for 06-07). Also as it turned out the receiver was dead. Made for interesting first time doing a FOB registering. This transponder (immobilizer) has proven more so changeling. This my be why or in part why this 07 LX came to me without anything but a valet. Someone may have just became to frustrated they smashed it all to pieces...LOL

How can you tell what chip a key or fob has i.e. 4C or 4D etc. Is their a chart or some type of tool that reads these to identify chip?
I'm guessing, that Toyota vs Lexus have different transponder chips in-bedded in the 06-07 FOB. As PNs # different, but yet door transmitter the same frequency size and function..

Do you know of a good version I could down load to my win 10 64 bit PC and or should I buy new mini VCI cable?
 

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