IH8 KDSS bolts

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CharlieS

CharlieS

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I am in a losing battle with my KDSS bolts.

So far it is Team KDSS bolts 4 vs Team Aero Kroil 1.

681E1447-4F9E-488C-BDDD-E7608FC48500.jpeg

I've soaked them both in Kroil for a couple of weeks. I've scraped at them with pick. I've used an impact driver.

I broke the inboard one loose, but the outboard one won't budge.

I think my last hope is heat, but I want to be very careful if I go down that road. Heat and a sealed hydraulic system seems like it could go bad.

Any tips or advice?
 
there was a KDSS loosening thread around a bit ago. Lots of frustration. IIRC patience and repeated attempts was a virtue. As much rust as we've seen on the rest of your truck I bet yours is a bad case! At least you're 1/2 way there.
 
Ooof. This will probably go down as one of your most memorable wrenching battles. I've had my fair share and it's part of the satisfaction I get from wrenching.

Couple thoughts:
1) Have you tried tightening the KDSS bolt a smidge, then backing it out?
2) Not ideal, but releasing one valve may be all you to perform the lift?
 
There is also I believe a seal in there that heat could destroy. They say patience is a virtue, keep on trying. Look at the bright side, you're half way there :hillbilly:
 
Yes, unfortunately, I have tried tightening first and then loosening, but am not getting any movement.

I know at least one 'mud member reported back that it worked out for him
with only one of the two bolts loose. It would be great if that works out for me.

I'm not giving up yet, but I do need to wait for more 5mm bits to arrive. :)
 
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Another "desperate act" that has worked for me: heat on the outside (makes it expand), then use a duster can upside down on the fastener, so raw very cold propellant freezes it and cause it to contract slightly. Yes, there's a seal in there above the plug, so not much heat.
 
I live in salty winter NH with a 2011. Dealer sandblasted the bolts and then welded on nuts.
 
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We're next door neighbors!

That is my last ditch resort. I have a mig welder and am reasonably competent with it. To be honest, I'm concerned about the internal o-rings in the assembly if it gets too hot.
 
CharlieS said:
We're next door neighbors!
Click to expand...

Wait... what?? Where you guys at?

That is my last ditch resort. I have a mig welder and am reasonably competent with it. To be honest, I'm concerned about the internal o-rings in the assembly if it gets too hot.
Click to expand...

I suppose you could do it really quick-like, then shoot water on it to cool it down really fast.
 
Yes, extensively.

Neighbors may be a bit exaggerated, we are one state over, and with our tiny states,that isn't too far...
 
CharlieS said:
We're next door neighbors!

That is my last ditch resort. I have a mig welder and am reasonably competent with it. To be honest, I'm concerned about the internal o-rings in the assembly if it gets too hot.
Click to expand...

The seal is pretty far up inside, unless you go nuts with the heat (to the point you’d probably destroy the screw itself too) I don’t see welding something onto it being a problem.

Welding might be just the ticket. I’ve totally given up on bolt extractors for things like broken exhaust studs and bolts. I’m 100% for the four times I’ve welded something onto the broken part and it turning right out as if it were never stuck in the first place.

It would be cleaner and easier to avoid future corrosion if you could get the screw to turn without it though.
 
bloc said:
The seal is pretty far up inside, unless you go nuts with the heat (to the point you’d probably destroy the screw itself too) I don’t see welding something onto it being a problem.

Welding might be just the ticket. I’ve totally given up on bolt extractors for things like broken exhaust studs and bolts. I’m 100% for the four times I’ve welded something onto the broken part and it turning right out as if it were never stuck in the first place.

It would be cleaner and easier to avoid future corrosion if you could get the screw to turn without it though.
Click to expand...

If you go with welding something onto the shutter valve, make sure the valve can still close completely - otherwise you may not get a good mechanical seal at the bottom of the valve.

Just for reference:

KDSS_Valve_10FEB16_zps2zef7kwu.jpg


HTH
 
bloc said:
The seal is pretty far up inside, unless you go nuts with the heat (to the point you’d probably destroy the screw itself too) I don’t see welding something onto it being a problem.

Welding might be just the ticket. I’ve totally given up on bolt extractors for things like broken exhaust studs and bolts. I’m 100% for the four times I’ve welded something onto the broken part and it turning right out as if it were never stuck in the first place.

It would be cleaner and easier to avoid future corrosion if you could get the screw to turn without it though.
Click to expand...

I saw a BP-51 install video online where the tech couldn’t open one of the KDSS valves so he welded a hex head to it and that worked. He didn’t disclose if he torched the O- ring or not. I’ll see if I can find it again.
 
I saw a video like that too - welding hex nuts on.

I just half-ass attempted it, but didn't use enough amperage, so it didn't stick - turned the nut cherry red, but didn't stick. I probably need to clean the metal better, it's fairly contaminated from kroil, atf, etc. I wire brushed to shiny metal though, so that was promising.

It didn't help much that my auto darkening helmet isn't working either, which sucks. I think the universe may be telling me to just leave it alone...
 
gaijin said:
If you go with welding something onto the shutter valve, make sure the valve can still close completely - otherwise you may not get a good mechanical seal at the bottom of the valve.

Just for reference:

KDSS_Valve_10FEB16_zps2zef7kwu.jpg


HTH
Click to expand...
Thanks. That picture is very helpful.

The shutter valve bolt sits slightly proud of the surface, so that's good.
 
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