igniter swap

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K

kensdodge1

10 Year
Joined
May 9, 2012
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1
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3
I have a 1988 4runner its my winter rat but since ive owned it has had a wet no start problem. Usually i just clean any dampness /corrosion of the grounding wire and surrounding bolts and she runs pretty good but we had a pretty decent rain and now it wont start at all it has a 053 igniter and autozone wants 399 bucks for the replacement :doh:
So what other vehicles can i get this off of at the yard?
 
are you sure its the igniter?

for example,
there is a local, exclusive toyota, mechanic in my area that is also a friend of mine, and he claims that in over 20 years of servicing toyotas he has never had to replace an igniter on these 22re motors.

actually, with a recent client with the same issues as you he thought he had found his first bad igniter. so he asked to borrow mine off my truck to test his theory. because he too did not want to spend several hundred dollars on an OEM igniter and find out it wasnt the problem.

turns out, it wasn't the igniter after all. there was an internal intermittent problem with the customer's ecu.

so, the legend lives on i guess.
just my $.02
 
It's got no spark at the coil wire goin into the cap when it cuts out also no power to the coil so im kinda leaning that way still maybe ill check the ecm although im not seein any water in or around the computer
 
Have you done the simple things, like check the fuses? There should be power from the battery on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
 
Try unbolting the ignitor cleaning the rust around the bolt holes. Cleaning up where the condenser? Bolts to and double checking that ground. I ended up replacing my stock one with ground strap. Edit Excuse me, not replacing but in addition to the oem , I added a ground strap.
 
cruiser88 said:
Try unbolting the ignitor cleaning the rust around the bolt holes. Cleaning up where the condenser? Bolts to and double checking that ground. I ended up replacing my stock one with ground strap. Edit Excuse me, not replacing but in addition to the oem , I added a ground strap.
Click to expand...

This is good advice. On my 2FE swap (FJ40) I ran a ground wire from the base of the ignitor to the battery (battery and ignitor were close to each other). I seem to recall I was having issues and this was the solution.
 
if the igniter is bad you should get some reading from the check engine light pointing to that problem. A while back driving to TX my igniter started acting up about a 100 miles from EL Paso. Made it there and bought an after market at Checkers. It ran but it was not the same until I found the original igniter assembly.
 
Well I can tell you I have been just looking for the excuse to pull the trigger on the LC Engineering One wire dizzy setup. It eliminates the ignitor, dizzy, coil, wiring....the whole nine yards. It costs about 400. If am in the poor house when the ignitor quits, just will find me an old points dizzy , slap a regular coil and the rest GM. Done in about all of 15 minutes.
 
cruiser88 said:
Well I can tell you I have been just looking for the excuse to pull the trigger on the LC Engineering One wire dizzy setup. It eliminates the ignitor, dizzy, coil, wiring....the whole nine yards. It costs about 400. If am in the poor house when the ignitor quits, just will find me an old points dizzy , slap a regular coil and the rest GM. Done in about all of 15 minutes.
Click to expand...

How does this work, the igniter sends an RPM signal to the ECU, with out that signal the ECU will never turn on the injectors.
 
lil update been kinda busy it stopped raining 2 days later and the silly thing fired right up ran perfect got it home. gonna get the squirt bottle after it tonight and see if i cant figure it out.
 
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