- Thread starter
- #101
You sellin one, you say...???
Why ain't you usin it?
If your not sellin one, then yes I want pics
Why ain't you usin it?
If your not sellin one, then yes I want pics
I got another 60
- Thread starter tonyota
- Start date
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I want to wait until I get the new drive train in to make sure I have enough oil pan and drive shaft clearance, but I'd like to spring the LV back under so I'll have an extra pair of SOA axles all done up nice by Badlands Machine shop. The rear one has a nice anti wrap.
or anti-rap if you're not into the urban thing.
or anti-rap if you're not into the urban thing.
- Thread starter
- #103
I'm down with the urban thang, yo.
Ok. lemme know what you decide to do & if I get to that part afore you get it figured out, I'll have you send me the pics & I'll make one....
Thanks, Homie, ....word....
Ok. lemme know what you decide to do & if I get to that part afore you get it figured out, I'll have you send me the pics & I'll make one....
Thanks, Homie, ....word....
The magic eight ball is on its annual sexual awareness club event. They import 200 hookers from around the world, and each eight ball, armed with only a thermos of coffee and $2,000 cash, tries to visit as many countries as he can and the winner, of course, is named King of Sexual Awareness Week and is allowed to rape and pillage the neighboring towns until sexual awareness week ends. Ill let you know when he gets back.
as far as anti-wrap bars go?.... surprisingly, they do have to be built a specific way. They see huge forces, and even a heavy wall dom setup, if not constructed right, will pretzel up big time. I suggest searching a bit. If mud doesnt have anything, I know P!r@te does (maybe that will fool the woody).
PO built a nice one on my 40, holla if u need a pic.
Here's a thread on Mud you can follow Tony.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/212112-better-anti-wrap-ideas.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/212112-better-anti-wrap-ideas.html
I disagree with John a little on his answer since it will depend on the integrity of your cross member. Some are in much better shape than others and I have seen some fail in the past. In those instances the owner should have known better. Prior to flipping my rear springs I had my track bar attached to the stock cross member and it held fine since it was in good condition. When I flipped my rear springs to make room for the auto I had to cut the original cross member and I had Carl fab me a new one out of DOM. RuffStuff has a great kit to make your own track bar which is what I will use if I ever do it again. I fabbed my own from scratch with Mike and AJ supervising and it was a PITA and still cost close to $250! I used chromoly tubing and expensive heims, but still it added up quick. It is definitely cheaper than not running one...right Luke?!?
I disagree with John a little on his answer since it will depend on the integrity of your cross member. Some are in much better shape than others and I have seen some fail in the past. In those instances the owner should have known better. Prior to flipping my rear springs I had my track bar attached to the stock cross member and it held fine since it was in good condition. When I flipped my rear springs to make room for the auto I had to cut the original cross member and I had Carl fab me a new one out of DOM. RuffStuff has a great kit to make your own track bar which is what I will use if I ever do it again. I fabbed my own from scratch with Mike and AJ supervising and it was a PITA and still cost close to $250! I used chromoly tubing and expensive heims, but still it added up quick. It is definitely cheaper than not running one...right Luke?!?
Ok
Disclaimer:
It will be strong enough, provided it isnt a rusty POS,
My crossmember is in amazing shape. There is zero rust and was painted by the PO. No dents, dings, or damage. There is a bit of debate using the stock crossmember since it is thinwall tube. I've seen examples of using the stock tube with success so it is something I will try. If it doesn't work, I have enough tubing to fab up a new one.
I've looked a ta few designs and really like the Ruff Stuff setup. The only other thing to buy would be the heim joint. Being on the broke ass budget, I though I might be able to use another type of set up similar to the pic below. Both rear mounts on the axle one at the top of the diff opening and the other offset and lower on the axle tube. This would also allow the trac-bar to be as close to center as possible. I already have 1 5/8ths .125 DOM tube and 1/4 inch plate I can cut for the mounting tabs. The only thing left to buy would be 3 heims and the tube inserts for them.
What are your thoughts on this type of setup? (BTW this setup is on a 4 Skinner off the Pirate link John had posted)
I've looked a ta few designs and really like the Ruff Stuff setup. The only other thing to buy would be the heim joint. Being on the broke ass budget, I though I might be able to use another type of set up similar to the pic below. Both rear mounts on the axle one at the top of the diff opening and the other offset and lower on the axle tube. This would also allow the trac-bar to be as close to center as possible. I already have 1 5/8ths .125 DOM tube and 1/4 inch plate I can cut for the mounting tabs. The only thing left to buy would be 3 heims and the tube inserts for them.
What are your thoughts on this type of setup? (BTW this setup is on a 4 Skinner off the Pirate link John had posted)
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- Thread starter
- #116
HMMMMMM. Couple of nice designs.(i think)
Preciate the info guys.
I have some solid tube & heim joints from a truck with a 4 link rear end I stripped in my garage
I kept all the links/heims, in case I ever needed them....Looks like a good time to break that stuff out & see what i can do wif it.
Guess I didn't know the front end of it had to pivot, but I guess it makes sense (?) I think I will need help on this part of the project.
Got all my new bushings & greaseable shackles & pins today.. Waiting on my front axle rebuild kit.
Gonna put on the relatively new 62 rear springs I have, when I put the new centered diff in the rear.
Goin over to Carls again this Sunday to work on that some more.
Preciate the info guys.
I have some solid tube & heim joints from a truck with a 4 link rear end I stripped in my garage
I kept all the links/heims, in case I ever needed them....Looks like a good time to break that stuff out & see what i can do wif it.
Guess I didn't know the front end of it had to pivot, but I guess it makes sense (?) I think I will need help on this part of the project.
Got all my new bushings & greaseable shackles & pins today.. Waiting on my front axle rebuild kit.
Gonna put on the relatively new 62 rear springs I have, when I put the new centered diff in the rear.
Goin over to Carls again this Sunday to work on that some more.
I have pics Phil, will post'm from the work puter today.
- Thread starter
- #120
Wow, more nice pics...After thinking about this some more I guess it would have to pivot at the front.
Was comparing it to the factory front anti-wrap on a solid axle Toyota mini truck, just a rubber bushing on each end.
Was comparing it to the factory front anti-wrap on a solid axle Toyota mini truck, just a rubber bushing on each end.