Are you refering to the magical t-case after market that you cruiser guys have no experiance with....or are you suggesting the split case is stronger than the mini?.....
I got another 60
- Thread starter tonyota
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Are you refering to the magical t-case after market that you cruiser guys have no experiance with....or are you suggesting the split case is stronger than the mini?.....
FineWynsFJ40
Too much to do...
If it needs knuckle service, I'm pretty good by now with tearing them apart, cleaning, then installing new bearings, races, and the rest of the crap that goes in them. Let me know if you want my help. If I can, I'll have my dad ship me my brass drift set I made last year for that express purpose.
- Thread starter
- #23
Just not sure on the strenth. Are they as strong or stronger than a split case?
I was thinking of leaving it in if it will work. Then I could go with dual cases again.
That was by far my favorite mod on my old mini truck.
If your driveshaft angles line up and it's already there, then the mini cases are the way to go. At least you can double them and/ or regear them without having to take out a second mortgage.
Im no expert on the split case, but the little I have heard regarding the strength difference, most seem to beleive the mini atleast as strong if not stronger.
Plus you can compare the wheeling/rigs the two cases see. Many mini cases see tubed out rigs on 40's, on nasty rocks, f-toys, etc... Im not saying the splitcase isnt strong im just saying the mini's are deceptively strong, and most of them run with a 2.28:1 reduction box in front of them. They are also tiny and light! and have a MUCH nicer shifter design.
With all the aftermarket support for the mini-case, I would bet money that a chromoly 23 spline output mini case will take more abuse than a split case. adapters are around 200-300$, reduction gears are about $350, and the longfield output is like 300-350$ IIRC. Im not sure you will give it more stress than my heavy ass 4runner, with a motor that is compareable to a typical junkyard 350.
Plus look at the abuse Joe put his through on 42's, droping the clutch at 5000rpm, up undercut waterfalls.
Bottom line....they will both do great.
Plus you can compare the wheeling/rigs the two cases see. Many mini cases see tubed out rigs on 40's, on nasty rocks, f-toys, etc... Im not saying the splitcase isnt strong im just saying the mini's are deceptively strong, and most of them run with a 2.28:1 reduction box in front of them. They are also tiny and light! and have a MUCH nicer shifter design.
With all the aftermarket support for the mini-case, I would bet money that a chromoly 23 spline output mini case will take more abuse than a split case. adapters are around 200-300$, reduction gears are about $350, and the longfield output is like 300-350$ IIRC. Im not sure you will give it more stress than my heavy ass 4runner, with a motor that is compareable to a typical junkyard 350.
Plus look at the abuse Joe put his through on 42's, droping the clutch at 5000rpm, up undercut waterfalls.
Bottom line....they will both do great.
For comparison:
Split case doubler adapter is about $600. Only doubles to the NP203, but that will work good with a chebbie trans if you have a TH400, TH350 or SM465. Split case 2.8:1 gears are only ones available and only from Marks are over $1800. 203 gears are not available at all. upgraded input and outputs are unavailable, but really don't break much.
And the shifter sucks ass compared to the mini shifters. I just don't ever try to shift mine in and out of 4wd.
Split case doubler adapter is about $600. Only doubles to the NP203, but that will work good with a chebbie trans if you have a TH400, TH350 or SM465. Split case 2.8:1 gears are only ones available and only from Marks are over $1800. 203 gears are not available at all. upgraded input and outputs are unavailable, but really don't break much.
And the shifter sucks ass compared to the mini shifters. I just don't ever try to shift mine in and out of 4wd.
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the price just fell through the floor for a dual adapters. $199
Inchworm Gear - Toyota Rockcrawling Equipment
Inchworm Gear - Toyota Rockcrawling Equipment
- Thread starter
- #28
Ok. I'm sold. I may just go doubles right from
The get go. Then I only have to do things once
The get go. Then I only have to do things once
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- #30
I need one more mini case
A mini truck case runs about 100-150$ (top shift, 21 or 23 spline) from the junkyards. and less than that on the boards. You dont need to add crawler gears if you double up the stock 2.28:1 you will have WAY more reduction than you need with a 350! And they dont really need a rebuild, since they never really get used, so you can just buy a bunch of them and bolt em up.
This t-case talk has me thinking about gearing mods. My first thought is to step up to a 4.88 or even a 5.29 set of diff's. Knowing the problems John had with his set of diff's awhile back, who would you recommend for a new r&p set up.
3 ring and pinions in one year!....
My problem was (among other small issues) the 8" 4cyl 3rd members I was using. Now im using the v6 factory 4.88:1 3rd members. I have yet to find a claim of someone breaking one, Ill see if I can be the first. Your cruiser 9.5" 3rds are much stronger.
I usually dont recomend differential regears unless you need them for the road. They are expensive and if you have an issue you have spend all that money again to repair and set up. Ask me how I know.
But if you keep a stock ratio, you just head to the junk yard and pick up a another one, and its a nice factory broken in setup. Aftermarket are just too expensive for a small % of reduction, and it seems a reduction in strength, especially latelty as now so many "good" brands are either gone (Precision) or are chinese made (Yukon etc...).But since (as stated) you dont have any t-case options in your stupid cruiser....Tom is good at set-ups. The only after market gear that seems like they dont suck right now seems to be Motive Gear.
Oh and use a solid collar.
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- #34
You run 4:88 John?
I have 4:11
That should be fine I thinks
I have 4:11
That should be fine I thinks
That's the dilemma I'm running into. Do I stay with the stock gearing and pick up spares for cheap or start looking at different t-case setups which can run stupidly expensive? I'm getting 2 FJ40 axles next weekend so now I'll have a spare 411 diff along with 2 spare birf's. All for $150. I like the cheap.
How do I get into lower gearing without having to sell body parts to afford it?
How do I get into lower gearing without having to sell body parts to afford it?
Yup, as of around august. I got sick of breaking 3rds and being jerked around by porc with partial warranties and months of down time. So I hunted down a couple factory 4.88 diffs for 100$ a piece. The are MUCH stronger than what I had.
I was running 5.29's cause I had to find a way to get the 3.0/auto to puch a 5000lb+ rig on 37's down the highway. But ever since I put the 3.4 in it I have wanted 4.88's.
I suggest sticking with the 4.11's, hell with a 350, 4.11 are considered "performance". if you wanted 4.88 or 5.29 it would cost you atleast $1000 and you would get about a 25% reduction. You can spend 300-400$ and run duals and get about 150% more reduction, more options, and you keep the road manners.
- Thread starter
- #38
I like the way you think John
In both of your last 2 replys
In both of your last 2 replys
Your'e breakin' my balls with all this hatred of the RED.
I do like the two tone idea.
