Well today did not go as planned. I was attempting to replace my Neutral Safety Switch 84540-51010, and the threaded end of the rod the switch rides on snapped off while I was trying to remove the retaining nut. Can I replace this by simply dropping the pan? Or how big a project did I just buy?
I Broke the Neutral Safety Switch Post - How Screwed Am I?
- Thread starter 78f150tx
- Start date
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I do not think that you can access that just by dropping the pan. The pan will only give you access to the filter and bottom of the valve body.
The switch is on the outside of the selector shaft which goes through the case and should link to the other side of the valve body.. this is how it is on other toyotas, at least
im almost certain that you'll have to drop the valve body and disconnect everything from the selector shaft, then install a new one
or
alternatively there's a possibility that you could use one of those universal linkage clamps to make due as a temporary solution
this feels risky though i personally would replace the selector shaft. its not something that requires expensive tools, just make sure you keep careful inventory of your bolts and you look up proper torque specs
i think 35561-60030 is the part number for our model year with the 4 speed trans
edit:
upon further consideration maybe a universal linkage clamp really isnt that risky if there's enough space, just need to find the right one
also im not a professional
others here may have better recommendations. the break is at the top of the threads and isn't horrible
The switch is on the outside of the selector shaft which goes through the case and should link to the other side of the valve body.. this is how it is on other toyotas, at least
im almost certain that you'll have to drop the valve body and disconnect everything from the selector shaft, then install a new one
or
alternatively there's a possibility that you could use one of those universal linkage clamps to make due as a temporary solution
this feels risky though i personally would replace the selector shaft. its not something that requires expensive tools, just make sure you keep careful inventory of your bolts and you look up proper torque specs
i think 35561-60030 is the part number for our model year with the 4 speed trans
edit:
upon further consideration maybe a universal linkage clamp really isnt that risky if there's enough space, just need to find the right one
also im not a professional
others here may have better recommendations. the break is at the top of the threads and isn't horrible
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- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks @frawstme I really appreciate the reply, thoughts, and part #.I do not think that you can access that just by dropping the pan. The pan will only give you access to the filter and bottom of the valve body.
The switch is on the outside of the selector shaft which goes through the case and should link to the other side of the valve body.. this is how it is on other toyotas, at least
im almost certain that you'll have to drop the valve body and disconnect everything from the selector shaft, then install a new one
or
alternatively there's a possibility that you could use one of those universal linkage clamps to make due as a temporary solution
this feels risky though i personally would replace the selector shaft. its not something that requires expensive tools, just make sure you keep careful inventory of your bolts and you look up proper torque specs
i think 35561-60030 is the part number for our model year with the 4 speed trans
edit:
upon further consideration maybe a universal linkage clamp really isnt that risky if there's enough space, just need to find the right one
also im not a professional
I woke up thinking about a universal link. When assembled using the OEM the link, there are no visible threads so the universal link would need to be much thinner.
I’ve never dropped a valve body, how complicated and skills are best for this process? I’m comfortable turning wrenches as I’ve done all the maintenance on this vehicle including starter, timing belt twice, cv shafts, front wheel bearings, but never any transmission work.
Thanks again,
Valve body isn't difficult to drop, if needed. Dropping pan in 98-02, is a pain, since FIPG sealed (no gasket). One of the biggest concerns. Is, busting pan bolts. Go easy on removing them.
Root-around YouTube. You should find some videos of valve body R&R and transmission rebuilds. They'll give you insight as to how to R&R the shaft to PNP.
Use your VIN # at www.partsouq.com. To find part numbers of some seals and O-rings you'll need and some you may as well replace while-in-there. Make sure to use the A/T FSM (Auto Transmission Factory Service Manual) as your guide.
Root-around YouTube. You should find some videos of valve body R&R and transmission rebuilds. They'll give you insight as to how to R&R the shaft to PNP.
Use your VIN # at www.partsouq.com. To find part numbers of some seals and O-rings you'll need and some you may as well replace while-in-there. Make sure to use the A/T FSM (Auto Transmission Factory Service Manual) as your guide.
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- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks @frawstme I woke up thinking about a universal link.I do not think that you can access that just by dropping the pan. The pan will only give you access to the filter and bottom of the valve body.
The switch is on the outside of the selector shaft which goes through the case and should link to the other side of the valve body.. this is how it is on other toyotas, at least
im almost certain that you'll have to drop the valve body and disconnect everything from the selector shaft, then install a new one
or
alternatively there's a possibility that you could use one of those universal linkage clamps to make due as a temporary solution
this feels risky though i personally would replace the selector shaft. its not something that requires expensive tools, just make sure you keep careful inventory of your bolts and you look up proper torque specs
i think 35561-60030 is the part number for our model year with the 4 speed trans
edit:
upon further consideration maybe a universal linkage clamp really isnt that risky if there's enough space, just need to find the right one
also im not a professional
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks!
All the 2000 year 100 series have the same A343F transmission shift components.
You'll need a new spacer, 90560-20006, (2) seals, 90311-12006 as well as a new shaft, 35561-30070, if you want to do the job right. This can all be done without removing the transmission. I'd get a new roll pin, 90254-04011 and nut & washer, 94110-40800 and 94512-00800, while I was at it; they're cheap.
Do follow @2001LC 's advice and download, and use, the unit repair service manual for the 100 series A343F transmission. It's in the Resource forum, 100 series section. The manual says you can reuse the spacer, but you can't.
There is no information in the general service manual that will help you.
You'll need a new spacer, 90560-20006, (2) seals, 90311-12006 as well as a new shaft, 35561-30070, if you want to do the job right. This can all be done without removing the transmission. I'd get a new roll pin, 90254-04011 and nut & washer, 94110-40800 and 94512-00800, while I was at it; they're cheap.
Do follow @2001LC 's advice and download, and use, the unit repair service manual for the 100 series A343F transmission. It's in the Resource forum, 100 series section. The manual says you can reuse the spacer, but you can't.
There is no information in the general service manual that will help you.
- Thread starter
- #8
Epic Support @Malleus THANK YOU! I will try to take photos and some video to share the experience and knowledge.
Drill a hole and tap to a 8 mm bolt. Tt is there just to keep the shaft engaged into the PN switch.
Drilling a hole on the end of a shaft with a flat cut on it, in situ, isn't something I'd want to try. Did you really look at where his problem is? I think that shaft is Ø8–mm, BTW. I could be wrong, but it's not much bigger than that.
I too was thinking something along these line.
TAG weld on a threaded stud. Use wet cold rag, on shaft. To help protect rubber shaft seal. If doesn't work. Back to square one (R&R shaft).
I "think" this is correct location to fine the shaft P/N.
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Yep, the very page I got the parts I recommended from...