I am yet again bringing you a Head-gasket rebuild thread

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Is ad infinitum a tolerance? :)
Yes. 0.0000000000000001" Still not ad infinitum, but I'm sure the cost goes up accordingly.......

Then you must buy the measurement tools to confirm that it is indeed within that tolerance, which means those tools must be machined even tighter....... :rofl:

How fast can you afford to go?:bounce:;)
 
Thanks! This is great info!! So you reckon check the bar, clean the block again and come back and check the deck, cleaned what seemed to be some glue residue off the machine edge of the straight edge and I’m still just barely able to slide 0.002 between bridge 3-4 with the straight edge diagonal both ways. Not able to get 0.002 underneath anywhere else really...

Measure straight down each side of the block (straight lengthwise and check in multiple places along the length, preferably in equal increments.
Do the same in about (3) places lengthwise over the tops of the pistons, so you'll end up with at least (5) readings lengthwise.
Then do diagonal corner to corner. This creates an error possibility over the very center because those two measurements are crossing in exactly the same place, so you move the straight edge to a similar angle, but to either side of the center of the block (lengthwise and crosswise) to see if it trends up or down across the block.

I'm guessing your straight edge is too long to go across the block and get a decent measurement at the junction between each cylinder to determine flatness across it.
 
You mean measure like this length wise and measure each bridge between cylinders? @BILT4ME
1A8C75F5-D064-4664-93A5-736D5FB2CC66.webp
 
Kinda like this. The blue lines are the straight edge.

IMG_20201026_141322637.webp
 
Kinda like this. The blue lines are the straight edge.

Ok findings from doing this, only able to really get the .002 feeler gauge through on the long diagonal measurement between cylinder 3-4 in both directions, every other directions seems to be fine and I’m not able to get the .002 under the straight edge... I think I’m hopefully in the clear 🤞
 
Ok findings from doing this, only able to really get the .002 feeler gauge through on the long diagonal measurement between cylinder 3-4 in both directions, every other directions seems to be fine and I’m not able to get the .002 under the straight edge... I think I’m hopefully in the clear 🤞
Have you tried the 0.001"? That would give you a better feel for the +/- part of it. If good with 0.001", then you could feel confident. With 0.002" then it's a maybe and hope for the best.
 
Have you tried the 0.001"? That would give you a better feel for the +/- part of it. If good with 0.001", then you could feel confident. With 0.002" then it's a maybe and hope for the best.

Just redid and tried all with a 0.0015 don’t have a 0.001 feeler. Everything is still all good except that middle bridge same as with the 0.002 where it can just barely slide under the straight edge. Going to go inside and check the straight edge with a guitar String now like you suggested!

Any opinion on what looks like pitting or that little bump I mentioned near the dowel?
 
Just redid and tried all with a 0.0015 don’t have a 0.001 feeler. Everything is still all good except that middle bridge same as with the 0.002 where it can just barely slide under the straight edge. Going to go inside and check the straight edge with a guitar String now like you suggested!

Any opinion on what looks like pitting or that little bump I mentioned near the dowel?
I wouldn't be too concerned about it.

If you're using an OEM Toyota gasket I'd say you'll be good. The most important area is the rim around each piston to make sure the fire ring area is clean, pit and crack and crevice free. The metal part of the gasket is designed to compress there and create a seal. That is the high pressure area.
 
I wouldn't be too concerned about it.

If you're using an OEM Toyota gasket I'd say you'll be good. The most important area is the rim around each piston to make sure the fire ring area is clean, pit and crack and crevice free. The metal part of the gasket is designed to compress there and create a seal. That is the high pressure area.

Awesome thanks! Yes have a OEM Toyota gasket that I’m using. I’ll check around each fire ring area now, just cleaning the tops of Pistons as we speak
 
Just finished up cleaning off entire block and piston tops, going to mask tape up the whole deck and clean up some of the engine bay now... figure now is a good time with all this access.

5CB618AF-2D2F-4FA3-9995-011F5219E54F.webp


As far as piston fire ring area there were two little
Things if found, here is #3 cylinder:
1DFD793D-616D-428D-B796-66389269301E.webp


And here is #2 cylinder:
B810793B-15D1-4307-8D8A-C0CECC76F451.webp
 
Just finished up cleaning off entire block and piston tops, going to mask tape up the whole deck and clean up some of the engine bay now... figure now is a good time with all this access.

View attachment 2477703

As far as piston fire ring area there were two little
Things if found, here is #3 cylinder:
View attachment 2477711

And here is #2 cylinder:
View attachment 2477713
Not concerned about 2, but I would be about 3. When you place the gasket, make sure it is set on the block so the fire ring is as far away from that defect as you can make it. I realize this will be difficult, but you can use a little Permatex #1 gasket maker like a glue in one or two corners (VERY thin smear, just enough to be sticky) to help hold it in place when you set the head and tighten it down.

Don't forget to clean the bolt threads while you're doing your cleaning. There is a procedure in the FSM for it. I believe it is done using oil and the head bolt on these, not a tap.
 
Finished off last night cleaning some wiring harness and connectors, surprisingly didn't have any connectors break on me during the removal process, Going to be nice to coat everything with a liberal amount of dielectric grease and button this whole project up soonish. Some of the harnesses is going to have to be re-sheathed.. Especially around the previous EGR. Also found a little nic in one of the wires to a fuel injector clip.

IMG_2336.webp

IMG_2338.webp
IMG_2341.webp


Did have the one knock sensor disintegrate on me when pulling apart though:
IMG_2339.webp



Anyways about to order the new head from a Canadian Toyota parts distributor.... my piggy bank is crying lol. Wondering if anyone has suggestions on which valve shims to order in addition they come in a variety of sizes I know but I was just wondering if anyone has any idea what sizes seem to be the most commonly used... dont want to get the head and be setting clearances to just realize I dont have any more shims and have to wait another additional 3 weeks for some to arrive!
Cheers :beer:
 
Don't forget to clean the bolt threads while you're doing your cleaning. There is a procedure in the FSM for it. I believe it is done using oil and the head bolt on these, not a tap.

Thanks for the tip! was about to run a tap down them and noticed it was giving me a surprising amount of resistance... Waiting on my FSM to return from the machine shop.. hopefully today. Will follow the instructions there and clean out those head bolt threads!! Thanks again for all your help!!
 
You can see if this FSM link will download for you.


@Trollhole ‘s links aren’t working for me right now.

Thanks guys really appreciate it! I do actually have a FSM i just loaned it out to the machine shop that was going to work on my head... it should be back tomorrow. Kinda realizing theres no rush on the remaining work as it’s going to be over half a month wait for a new head anyways. Also wondering if anyone has recommendations on sizes of valve shins to order? Or anyone have a bunch leftover they’d be interested in selling?

Cheers 🍻
 
Thanks guys really appreciate it! I do actually have a FSM i just loaned it out to the machine shop that was going to work on my head... it should be back tomorrow. Kinda realizing theres no rush on the remaining work as it’s going to be over half a month wait for a new head anyways. Also wondering if anyone has recommendations on sizes of valve shins to order? Or anyone have a bunch leftover they’d be interested in selling?

Cheers 🍻

Ask your used parts suppliers if they have any shim packs available for sale. From what I’ve gathered, there’s no difference in used or new.
 
Thanks for the tip! was about to run a tap down them and noticed it was giving me a surprising amount of resistance... Waiting on my FSM to return from the machine shop.. hopefully today. Will follow the instructions there and clean out those head bolt threads!! Thanks again for all your help!!

if you have a spare head bolt grind 2 groves 180 degrees apart perpendicular to the threads. Then run a die down bolt to clean. Now you have groves that will collect and hold the s*** that is in the threads in the block as you thread it in. Sort of a homemade thread chaser.
 
Ask your used parts suppliers if they have any shim packs available for sale. From what I’ve gathered, there’s no difference in used or new.

Cheers thanks for the great idea! ill ask some of the used part suppliers in the states, they're shipping times have been much more prompt than anyone ive dealt with so far in Canada!!

if you have a spare head bolt grind 2 groves 180 degrees apart perpendicular to the threads. Then run a die down bolt to clean. Now you have groves that will collect and hold the s*** that is in the threads in the block as you thread it in. Sort of a homemade thread chaser.

Yes was planning on doing this and I did end up buying a new set of toyota head bolts. Except i unfortunately dont own or know of anyone around here with a die set i can access. Was hoping i have a nut somewhere that i can use as a makeshift substitute but well see... if not i get amazon prime pretty quick!
 
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