I wish I had a local machine shop! Everything is out of town unfortunately, but this is a good idea![]()
Oooh yeah, you’re way out in Lord Huron territory.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I wish I had a local machine shop! Everything is out of town unfortunately, but this is a good idea![]()
Yes. 0.0000000000000001" Still not ad infinitum, but I'm sure the cost goes up accordingly.......Is ad infinitum a tolerance?![]()

Thanks! This is great info!! So you reckon check the bar, clean the block again and come back and check the deck, cleaned what seemed to be some glue residue off the machine edge of the straight edge and I’m still just barely able to slide 0.002 between bridge 3-4 with the straight edge diagonal both ways. Not able to get 0.002 underneath anywhere else really...
Kinda like this. The blue lines are the straight edge.
Have you tried the 0.001"? That would give you a better feel for the +/- part of it. If good with 0.001", then you could feel confident. With 0.002" then it's a maybe and hope for the best.Ok findings from doing this, only able to really get the .002 feeler gauge through on the long diagonal measurement between cylinder 3-4 in both directions, every other directions seems to be fine and I’m not able to get the .002 under the straight edge... I think I’m hopefully in the clear![]()
Have you tried the 0.001"? That would give you a better feel for the +/- part of it. If good with 0.001", then you could feel confident. With 0.002" then it's a maybe and hope for the best.
I wouldn't be too concerned about it.Just redid and tried all with a 0.0015 don’t have a 0.001 feeler. Everything is still all good except that middle bridge same as with the 0.002 where it can just barely slide under the straight edge. Going to go inside and check the straight edge with a guitar String now like you suggested!
Any opinion on what looks like pitting or that little bump I mentioned near the dowel?
I wouldn't be too concerned about it.
If you're using an OEM Toyota gasket I'd say you'll be good. The most important area is the rim around each piston to make sure the fire ring area is clean, pit and crack and crevice free. The metal part of the gasket is designed to compress there and create a seal. That is the high pressure area.
Not concerned about 2, but I would be about 3. When you place the gasket, make sure it is set on the block so the fire ring is as far away from that defect as you can make it. I realize this will be difficult, but you can use a little Permatex #1 gasket maker like a glue in one or two corners (VERY thin smear, just enough to be sticky) to help hold it in place when you set the head and tighten it down.Just finished up cleaning off entire block and piston tops, going to mask tape up the whole deck and clean up some of the engine bay now... figure now is a good time with all this access.
View attachment 2477703
As far as piston fire ring area there were two little
Things if found, here is #3 cylinder:
View attachment 2477711
And here is #2 cylinder:
View attachment 2477713

Don't forget to clean the bolt threads while you're doing your cleaning. There is a procedure in the FSM for it. I believe it is done using oil and the head bolt on these, not a tap.
forum.ih8mud.com
You can see if this FSM link will download for you.
![]()
Factory Service Manual ( FSM)
forum.ih8mud.com
@Trollhole ‘s links aren’t working for me right now.
Thanks guys really appreciate it! I do actually have a FSM i just loaned it out to the machine shop that was going to work on my head... it should be back tomorrow. Kinda realizing theres no rush on the remaining work as it’s going to be over half a month wait for a new head anyways. Also wondering if anyone has recommendations on sizes of valve shins to order? Or anyone have a bunch leftover they’d be interested in selling?
Cheers![]()
Thanks for the tip! was about to run a tap down them and noticed it was giving me a surprising amount of resistance... Waiting on my FSM to return from the machine shop.. hopefully today. Will follow the instructions there and clean out those head bolt threads!! Thanks again for all your help!!
Ask your used parts suppliers if they have any shim packs available for sale. From what I’ve gathered, there’s no difference in used or new.
if you have a spare head bolt grind 2 groves 180 degrees apart perpendicular to the threads. Then run a die down bolt to clean. Now you have groves that will collect and hold the s*** that is in the threads in the block as you thread it in. Sort of a homemade thread chaser.