I am yet again bringing you a Head-gasket rebuild thread (1 Viewer)

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I would not get to worked up right now at this point. From the pictures the only note would be to secure timing chain down low so it will not drop or slip off crank.
The loose chain, pic#1 blue rags picture, shows enough "slop" that when things are moved the chain could drop.
IE SPEAKING from experience.
In Following FSM the alignment of all the components' is covered before getting to far. Crank, cams, distributors, timing, etc.
Enjoy putting back together. Like the Valve cover porn.

Cheers appreciate that, I think I’ll just leave it for now and try and make sure everything lines up when I put it back together..
 
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Cheers appreciate that, I think I’ll just leave it for now and try and make sure everything lines up when I put it back together..
The timing chain will also be in a "different" location because the guides are not against it and the tensioner is not pumped up and pushing the chain to one side.

If the HB is directly on "0", the more critical dimension you should look at is the relationship of the top of the piston to the top deck of the block. This should be a couple thousandths of an inch. If more, it could indicate severely worn bearings or a bent rod, neither of which is common in this situation.
 
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The timing chain will also be in a "different" location because the guides are not against it and the tensioner is not pumped up and pushing the chain to one side.

If the HB is directly on "0", the more critical dimension you should look at is the relationship of the top of the piston to the top deck of the block. This should be a couple thousandths of an inch. If more, it could indicate severely worn bearings or a bent rod, neither of which is common in this situation.

The HB is below zero, almost looking like -3 but the #1 and 6 piston are both level with the block deck
 
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The HB is below zero, almost looking like -3 but the #1 and 6 piston are both level with the block deck
With a straightedge across the block and you move it to the zero mark, it should get a tiny bit tighter between the top of the piston and the top deck.

At this point, leave it where it is until you start assembly.
 
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With a straightedge across the block and you move it to the zero mark, it should get a tiny bit tighter between the top of the piston and the top deck.

At this point, leave it where it is until you start assembly.

Ok sounds good, appreciate the insight, maybe I was slightly off the TDC mark on the camshafts when I tore it apart. Lol I couldn’t see the 0 mark for the HB at all was covered in 1/2 of old engine oil gunk
 
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Head was suppose to be delivered today, instead got this in the morning... so annoying, no knock on the door or notice slip anywhere to be found.
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The day has come!
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What a race, they seemed to have lost it but got it in the nick of time to get it to a few towns over where the machine shop was. Post office in town is inside a drug store so people were looking at my friend and I funny carrying this massive thing through there lol.

Talked over briefly with the machine shop tech,
-clean up camshafts (check for spec)
-install all new valve springs
-new exhaust valves
-surfaced and cleaned and check for spec intake valves
-new valve keepers
-press fit new water unions
-etc... valve seals...
-they warranty they’re work within reason
-should be done in a matter of days
-approx around 200$

I’ve heard great things about this shop so hopefully all goes well and I can start reassembly shortly..

Honestly would’ve preferred to do it myself but my reasoning was I’m starting work on Saturday as were going to be making snow, plus I would need around 200$ in additional tools, I would run the risk of messing it up as it would be my first time doing anything like this especially as it my daily driver, and lastly I would have to do it in the evenings in an un-heated and insulated garage at -5... but I still am going to have to re-asmble it in there anyways haha 😅

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Well life’s gotten busy, we have the temps now to start up the winter season so it’s 12 hour shifts while we can. Still waiting to here back from the machine shop too..

Little work today, some cleaning, some manifold plugs made, and prepping for paint...

Also got this killer new heater that has this non insulated garage somewhat warm in a matter of minutes

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Some dielectric grease for this, replaced in 2014

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Here we go!
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As per @BILT4ME suggestion I used a little permetex gasket maker 1 to hold the headgasket to the side to avoid that little Knick at the top of cylinder 3... otherwise all went smoothly, very very tiny wobble with head just on gasket before tightening.. but it’s all squared up as per FSM now. Once I had the timing gear back on the intake camshaft I moved back the HB to 0 and it didn’t even move the camshafts just took up a little slack, so I believe we’re all good there !!
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Question, wondering if the crush washer for this sensor is in the full engine gasket kit? And if anyone knows what it looks like...? Also wondering if these two front sensors on the head look like they’re sitting right? They seem to be sticking out a little far...
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Ok crush washer Part number is 90430-12005 im
Not sure if that comes in the gasket kit or not? From google it looks to be brass but im not seeing anything like that in the engine kit... unless it one of these
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I did find the old one.. can I just re-use?
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I had the same issue, and ended up just reusing the old one.
No issues so far.
Haha figured... old one is already installed... installing fuel rail now!

Water inlet studs just got stripped, hopefully I can grab some at the local Toyota dealership Monday!
 

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