HZ into a lj78 (1 Viewer)

[beislebub]

After a few staring contests with the lj's front end, it made the most sence modify things. After looking at the hzj79's drag bar setup, I had an idea of what to do. I cut out the front crossmember and moved it foward, until it cleared the rad. The drag bar brace was attached to the crossmember, it got cut off and ran across to the other frame rail ( similar to the hzj79). So the fan and rad intake problem are solved

Can someone give me an idea (pic) of what the the 4wd shift linkage looks like where it engages the 4wd actuator. Mine was cut off about 5" short, in low range to keep the speeds down in the mines.

Joel.

 

[crushers]

interesting solution.

 

[beislebub]

Well I got all the frame stuff figured out, with the addition of a new drag bar brace, and moving the existing crossmember forward. I found some bar stock and rebuilt the missing arm for my 4x4 lever. And spent some time with a wire brush/wheel and cleaned up the motor. With all that done the Hz slid right back into place


Now the other half of the project, make it run. With doing this swap I also upgraded to a 5 spd manual, which needed a few extra pieces. the stamped holes in the firewall for the 5spd option (vacume booster/master cylinder) didn't work , the holes were in different locations ,and I needed 4 holes instead of just the 2 provided. After I drilled and installed the clutch pedal/ master cylinder, I looked at the setup out of the 79, which turns out would of worked with the stock stampings ( the setup I used was out of a RHD bj74), though this setup used a spring system with no vacume. Thinking of this after is the spring setup a better option?

I looked at swapping out the tranny hump cover out of the 79, with the manual holes already cut into it. But the covers were slightly different, so I traced out the shifter boot plate over my auto cover, drew in the hole sizes and fired up the sawz-all. All went well, I also created another project for myself by cutting out the carpet on the drivers side (easier working), now I have to do the rest. Probably a good thing since carpet holds the stink of the last thing you just stepped in


The one thing that has got me a little bit confused is the wiring, the Hz needs very little compared to the 2LTE. The hz doesn't even have the tach line off of the injection pump, in the end there is going to be a lot of excess wiring. At first I thought about swapping harnesses, but I'm hoping that I'll be able to make it work with the 2Lte harness and computers? All I "need" to hook up is the Injection pump solinoid. starting/charging system and glow plugs. But time will tell, unless someone can say it first.

Joel.

 

[beislebub]

 

[crushers]

go manual glow system.
the senders off the old LJ will screw into the HZ so other than maybe extending the wiring it should be a plug and play.
no tack eh? weird. but in reality your nerve will quit long before you reach red line.

looks a lot better with the new cross member up front.

congrates, nice work

 

[nate dogg]

Your truck is lookin goooood. That's going to be a killer combo with 4 doors, coils, 1HZ. Pretty much all the good stuff. I would like to take a look at your project if I could. I see that you are in the book, so if I get my stuff done that I need to I'll give you a call tommorow afternoon (sunday).
nathan

 

[beislebub]

So with the power steering pump on the other side on the Hz, I bent the return line to fit and made a new pump to box line.

I cut into the wire harnesses, I've found my neutral safety,4x4 light and my reverse in the tranny. I used the harness off of the R151, and swaped heads on the Prados harnes. So now I should have reverse lights, and 4x4 light and a closed neutral safety circut, 1/3. No 4x4 or reverse lights?

Now the glow timer is on for only a second, I ran one of the three wires, all have 12v for a second, but only 2 of the three have continuity. So if I want to manual glow with the key I should bypass the timer? I'm not really shure how the super glow system works.

 

[crushers]

the glow on the HZ is VERY short. even on the coldest days it stays on for just a couple seconds... no worries there.

looking good

 

[lshobie]

The glow is actually longer than a couple of seconds, check it in the manual. I have some spare HZJ79 glow plug timers and relays if you need them.

If I can offer a suggestion - change the harmonic balancer on that engine now while the truck is apart and you have easy access to the engine. Maybe do the timing belt, tensioner and water pump, thermostat as well. I had to change the harmonic balancer on my 2004 and it has 4200 hours on it - pain in the ass.

Looks awesome - will be a great truck!

 

[crushers]

hummm, i have not seen a long glow on any of the HZ i have owned... interesting.

the rest of the suggestions are good ones.

 

[lshobie]

Look at the chart in the manual, in colder weather it stays on longer. In minus 30 it is something like 12 seconds or more, then it goes to half voltage or something like that.

 

[crushers]

could be but i have yet to see it happen is all i am saying. (and they start like it was +20C out even at -30C)

 

[lshobie]

Dammit - why can't mine start like that!!! I'm buying a new set of glow plugs and injectors - that should clear up my problem.

 

[crushers]

what is your compression?

got a bad cylinder?

 

[lshobie]

Checked compression last year and they were all 595- 605psi. I'll check again this week for the heck of it. If i leave it over night and it is cold in the morning the glow doesnt seem to do anything. if I leave it for days and it is warm out when i start it - it is fine. I had changed the glow plugs with roodogs aftermarket type - but will buy some OEM and try again. I was also thinking a leaky injector but had them rebuilt last year as well.

 

[beislebub]

I'm thinking of going with a full manual glow (wilson) , it'll be less a headache than trying to figure out my glow timer ( if there is a problem).

I'm running on financial fumes with this project, so those belts and such are going to have to wait. Thanks for the heads up though.

Ishobie why did you have to change your harmonic balancer?


Thanks
Joel.

 

[coldtaco]

Looking good Keep up the good work. Finally got the BEB's replaced and timing belt/water pump/thermostat. Lost a part out of the front output shaft assy. so waiting for a new one, then I should be done with the power train finally. Have you looked at if you can use any of your original drive shafts?

 

[lshobie]

The harmonic balancer is made of two pieces of metal with a laminated piece of rubber in between - the rubber cracks and eventually the two pieces start to spin on each other - then your belts don't move and the sound is horrible - you think your engine is packing it it.

You could change the BEB but they are probably fine unless it is an old 1HZ and you are going to turbo it.

Louis

 

[crushers]

i would recommend changing the BEB just to be safe...

 

[beislebub]

Well I got my first setback, when I mounted my front body mounts I welded the passanger side a little high . so I'm going to pull out the passanger rubber puck and shave about a 1/4 inch off of it.

I havn't bolted up the drive shafts yet, but they seem to be the same length.


Joel.