The cost alone just to buy the 2010 79 series (whithout shipping, duty, and all the other stuff to try to bring it in) would be approximently $46,000.00 USD.
Cheers,
Michael
Build Hybrid FJ79/62 Series Build
- Thread starter MSGGrunt
- Start date
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The cost alone just to buy the 2010 79 series (whithout shipping, duty, and all the other stuff to try to bring it in) would be approximently $46,000.00 USD.
Cheers,
Michael
Just to give you some figures to build one as close to the original one.
1. Fullly body/bed/including front clip, no dash and wiring from Proffits is $7k.
2. I think you can get the same thing with wiring dash and steering column that would be $12k
3. New 79 series frame from Toyota, I think that is $5k
4. Now you just need a drive train and axles, lets say you use 80 series axle and gas drivetrain you can probably pick one of those up for $5k
5. Maybe you want to go all out and get a diesel engine and Tranny, perhaps what comes in one from ME that is $7k
6. And you want thos stock axles you can pick them up from mine truck somewhere for around $5k
So you are looking at $22k minimum and very close to stock would be around $24k. Still cheaper than factory one, and you probably can get your built one titled here, since it most likely was originally something else.
No pro or con on this just putting some close to real numbers out there, and of course that does not include all the fun hours you will spending putting it together
Cheers,
Michael
1. Fullly body/bed/including front clip, no dash and wiring from Proffits is $7k.
2. I think you can get the same thing with wiring dash and steering column that would be $12k
3. New 79 series frame from Toyota, I think that is $5k
4. Now you just need a drive train and axles, lets say you use 80 series axle and gas drivetrain you can probably pick one of those up for $5k
5. Maybe you want to go all out and get a diesel engine and Tranny, perhaps what comes in one from ME that is $7k
6. And you want thos stock axles you can pick them up from mine truck somewhere for around $5k
So you are looking at $22k minimum and very close to stock would be around $24k. Still cheaper than factory one, and you probably can get your built one titled here, since it most likely was originally something else.
No pro or con on this just putting some close to real numbers out there, and of course that does not include all the fun hours you will spending putting it together
Cheers,
Michael
I have an idea! You can get a Canadian BJ70 then all your dash stuff are there, all the steering too.
The 1985 and 1986 ones are legal right? So you can extend that frame. I'm not saying it's easy though ;p
Then put the 79 body on.
Bonus (at least I think) if you like the old style with the external fenders then you can put that on instead of the new front
No airbags to worry about either 
The 1985 and 1986 ones are legal right? So you can extend that frame. I'm not saying it's easy though ;p
Then put the 79 body on.
Bonus (at least I think) if you like the old style with the external fenders then you can put that on instead of the new front
No airbags to worry about either
I have an idea! You can get a Canadian BJ70 then all your dash stuff are there, all the steering too.
The 1985 and 1986 ones are legal right? So you can extend that frame. I'm not saying it's easy though ;p
Then put the 79 body on.
Bonus (at least I think) if you like the old style with the external fenders then you can put that on instead of the new front
You will have to do some work to use the new fenders since the older frame is narrower by about 4" but I have seen it done when they used the old fenders on the new frame probably not much more work to use the old frame.
Cheers,
Michael
- Thread starter
- #86
Scored some rims off Craig's List and picked up 2 STA Superlug 9.00x16 tires. The rims were $100.00 for the 4 and the tires were $193.00 a piece.
The rims are in great shape, but I am thinking of changing the color. Would love to powdercoat them, but will probably go with a spray job until I know what color looks good with the white body of the 79. I'm leaning towards a gunmetal gray. I am worried black would be too much of a contrast against the white body. Opinions welcome.
The rims are in great shape, but I am thinking of changing the color. Would love to powdercoat them, but will probably go with a spray job until I know what color looks good with the white body of the 79. I'm leaning towards a gunmetal gray. I am worried black would be too much of a contrast against the white body. Opinions welcome.
- Thread starter
- #87
Being that I am using an 80 series for a donor can the 80's 2 bulb, separate bulb for low beam and high beam, be converted into the 79 series dual filament single bulb design? Is it as simple as combining the separate low and high wire feeds into one four wire single bulb feed?
- Thread starter
- #88
Complete dash has been sourced, thanks Crusher, now I just need to take a trip to Canada to pick it up.
Does anyone know the paint code/color of the gray main steel dash section in the 70 series cruisers? Looks like the one from Crusher will need a little bit of restoration and would like to paint it before putting it in the truck
The build can now be shifted into high gear. Need to finish stripping the 80's body off the frame.
Does anyone know the paint code/color of the gray main steel dash section in the 70 series cruisers? Looks like the one from Crusher will need a little bit of restoration and would like to paint it before putting it in the truck
The build can now be shifted into high gear. Need to finish stripping the 80's body off the frame.
I have Gray odds and ends for 7x series if you find you are missing or need to replace some parts.
Cheers,
Michael
- Thread starter
- #91
New twist on the build.... I have seen one of these builds with the front of the bed shortened to give an overall bed length of about 77.5" or 6' 5 1/2" bed length. To tell you the truth, I like the overall look of the shorter bed better than the very long bed that is stock on the 79 series.
My plan... Remove 13.5 inches from the front of the bed. This amount is based on what Swamprunner estimated that he had to stretch the frame to line the center-line of the axle up in the wheel well. With 13.5" removed from the front of the bed this would give me 15.5" from the front of the bed to the bottom leading edge of the wheel well or 30" to the center of the wheel well. This would give me an overall bed length of 77.5" or 6' 5 1/2" and what I think is a better looking truck.
The benefits of shortening the bed instead of stretching the frame would mean that I wouldn't have to lengthen/modify: the rear driveshaft, emergency brake cable, brake lines, fuel lines, exhaust, cut and welding of the frame, lengthening of the rear wiring harness, etc...
Opinions???
My plan... Remove 13.5 inches from the front of the bed. This amount is based on what Swamprunner estimated that he had to stretch the frame to line the center-line of the axle up in the wheel well. With 13.5" removed from the front of the bed this would give me 15.5" from the front of the bed to the bottom leading edge of the wheel well or 30" to the center of the wheel well. This would give me an overall bed length of 77.5" or 6' 5 1/2" and what I think is a better looking truck.
The benefits of shortening the bed instead of stretching the frame would mean that I wouldn't have to lengthen/modify: the rear driveshaft, emergency brake cable, brake lines, fuel lines, exhaust, cut and welding of the frame, lengthening of the rear wiring harness, etc...
Opinions???
- Thread starter
- #92
Picture of the truck that gave me this idea. Wheel base is 115". 80 series wheel base is what 112"?
3" difference. I guess it will depend where the 79 series cab falls on the 80 series frame. I really would prefer shortening the bed than the frame and everything else that goes with it. And I would be getting a better looking truck IMHO and one that would be better suited for wheeling. And fit in the garage better.
3" difference. I guess it will depend where the 79 series cab falls on the 80 series frame. I really would prefer shortening the bed than the frame and everything else that goes with it. And I would be getting a better looking truck IMHO and one that would be better suited for wheeling. And fit in the garage better.
very nice mate
thats a real bonus to get a complete dash with all nuts,bolts,buttons,glove box etc
you should be able to fit the 80 cluster in , i have seen a 75 series with a ls1 and to make things easier they used the dash cluster out of the vehicle (4door version of 07 pontiact gto) and fitted it in the 7x series dash nicely
thats a real bonus to get a complete dash with all nuts,bolts,buttons,glove box etc
you should be able to fit the 80 cluster in , i have seen a 75 series with a ls1 and to make things easier they used the dash cluster out of the vehicle (4door version of 07 pontiact gto) and fitted it in the 7x series dash nicely
- Thread starter
- #96
I hope it is just that easy. The instrument cluster in the dash I got won't work... Kilometers won't fly here in the lower 48. That and I need the 80's cluster as it communicates with the transmission and the speedometer signal is electronic. Now if I can only morph the 80's electrical "stuff" off the 80's column onto the 70's column I will be very happy. That or I am sure I could modify the 80's harness to work with the 70's steering column switches and electronics. (directionals, horn, ignition, wipers, headlight switch, high/low beam switch.)
Are you using the same engine and electronics as well?
- Thread starter
- #99
I am. The ECU and electronics, engine, transmission, and transfer case will be from the stock 1996 80 series. Why do you ask? Does the cruis control have anything to do with the automatic transmission?
I am not sure if the 96' cruise control reads informatio off of the ECM or is eltro/mechanical later years read the ECM, but you can tell pretty easy by looking at the cruise control box in the engine compartment, look to see what wiring is hooked up if it is just power you are all set.
Cheers,
Michael