How To Replace ML Amplifier with an aftermarket AMP in Lexus LX470

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I’m thinking about replacing or completely bypassing the Mark Levinson amplifier in my 2006 LX470, and I need some guidance regarding the wiring schematics and CAN bus decoder. I’m considering either replacing it with a 6-channel amplifier to power the door speakers and the third row subwoofer or completely bypassing the factory amplifier. I’ve already replaced the factory head unit with an Android head unit that has a built-in amplifier, which I installed a few years ago.
I’d appreciate any guidance on the best approach, especially regarding the wiring and CAN bus decoder.
 
I’m thinking about replacing or completely bypassing the Mark Levinson amplifier in my 2006 LX470, and I need some guidance regarding the wiring schematics and CAN bus decoder. I’m considering either replacing it with a 6-channel amplifier to power the door speakers and the third row subwoofer or completely bypassing the factory amplifier. I’ve already replaced the factory head unit with an Android head unit that has a built-in amplifier, which I installed a few years ago.
I’d appreciate any guidance on the best approach, especially regarding the wiring and CAN bus decoder.
Something like that ?
 
If you plan to keep using aftermarket radio, you should bypass the factory amplifier and upgrade your speakers to a newer ones. No point in keeping ML. No need in CAN decoder or something like that. The amplifier wiring harness has remote turn on signal and all the speaker connections you need.
 
If you plan to keep using aftermarket radio, you should bypass the factory amplifier and upgrade your speakers to a newer ones. No point in keeping ML. No need in CAN decoder or something like that. The amplifier wiring harness has remote turn on signal and all the speaker connections you need.
I have already upgraded all 4 speakers including subwoofer to an aftermarket brand. I am looking for schematics and some guidance to completely remove ml amplifier in the middle.
 
2006 LX470 Amplifier Schematics. I am using AI to help me understand and bypass or replace it with an aftermarket amp.
Here is the response from AI.
I went through the three pages you uploaded. The key is that we should treat the factory amp as a junction point: disconnect its speaker outputs and feed the speakers from your aftermarket amplifier/head unit instead.

What the factory Mark Levinson amp is doing

From your schematic, the factory amp connector is S18(A) / S19(B).

The amplifier has these speaker outputs:

Factory amp channel
Amp connector/pin
Wire color
Goes to
FL+A-2Pink (P)Front LH door
FL−A-9Violet (V)Front LH door
FR+A-1Light Green (LG)Front RH door
FR−A-8Blue (L)Front RH door
RL+A-4Black (B)Rear LH door
RL−A-11Yellow (Y)Rear LH door
RR+A-3Red (R)Rear RH door
RR−A-10White (W)Rear RH door
WFL+A-6L-WWoofer
WFL−A-15L-YWoofer
WFR+A-5L-BWoofer
WFR−A-14L-RWoofer
ML+B-2L-RLH center/tweeter circuit
ML−B-15L-YLH center/tweeter circuit
MR+B-1Y-RRH center/tweeter circuit
MR−B-14Y-GRH center/tweeter circuit


The factory amplifier therefore has 8 channels:

Front L/R + Rear L/R + Center/tweeter L/R + Woofer L/R = 8 channels.

The service-manual diagram specifically shows the woofer as a four-wire speaker assembly, with separate WFL and WFR amplifier channels. So I would not treat that woofer as a normal single 2-wire subwoofer.

The easiest bypass for your Android stereo

Since you told me previously that your PX6 Android stereo already has a built-in amplifier, you could do this:

ANDROID HEAD UNIT



│ 4 amplified channels



┌───────────────┐

│ │

│ FL+ FL- ├──────────> Factory LH front door

│ FR+ FR- ├──────────> Factory RH front door

│ RL+ RL- ├──────────> Factory LH rear door

│ RR+ RR- ├──────────> Factory RH rear door

│ │

└───────────────┘



FACTORY ML AMP

X

BYPASSED



Specifically, at the factory amplifier connector, you would connect your Android head unit’s four speaker outputs to these factory speaker wires:

Front Left

Android:

FL+ → Pink P / factory amp A-2
FL− → Violet V / factory amp A-9

Front Right

FR+ → Light Green LG / A-1
FR− → Blue L / A-8

Rear Left

RL+ → Black B / A-4
RL− → Yellow Y / A-11

Rear Right

RR+ → Red R / A-3
RR− → White W / A-10


This would completely eliminate the factory amplifier from those four speaker circuits.


But there is a problem with the center speakers/tweeters

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See if this is the same connector going to your amp. If so, I can help. I just replaced the factory amp but I don' think I have a ML system, if that matters.
 
mine was an '01 ML system, so it may not be applicable to you in any way, but, when I replaced my head unit I utilized the RCA outputs from the new headunit to a 4-channel amp for door speakers. I utilized the factory wires (using the color codes identified in the factory wiring) for the 4-channel amp output. in the front doors to address the separate woofer/tweeter, I replaced the stock speakers with a component set that included a crossover. the new crossover that came with the speakers received the two wire speaker input and gave me two outputs where I ran the stock wires from the crossover to the individual component speakers. I honestly can't remember how I handled the third speaker in the front door, but I'm sure my solution was brilliant (/s). I don't think I had a front center channel, so that wasn't something I had to address, but I would imagine an appropriate amp would have provision for multiple speaker outputs from a single front rca input.

the sub in my setup is run on a separate amp, also receiving signal from the rca sub output on the headunit.

if yours is a the navigation headunit, I believe you'll need to find a way to address the additional functional requirements such as a/c controls... something like this: 100 Series NAV Delete – True Standalone HVAC Solution (OEM+) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-nav-delete-true-standalone-hvac-solution-oem.1375224/
 
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