That puts me back at square one then. Dang it. This needs to just go away.
How to clean your throttle body (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IdahoDoug
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I will try to clarify the pic. I drew a new arrow where the EGR flows. It is blocked by the throttle body but there is a 12 mm or so hole about 12mm in from the manifold to TB surface running vertically. The blue outline shows the pretty new VSV for the EGR. It took me less than two hours to clean the TB and EGR ports and also replace the VSV.
TB blocking EGR port
Just to show access. You NEED long needlenose pliers.
I'm in the same boat as Nova, in fact mine worse. The other day it decided that 600 was too high and dropped down to 400 then down to 200 and intermitantly stalls. It runs great if I hold the pedal to make 600-800rpm. What is really frustrating is that it went bad the other day with no warning.
I am certainly going to clean the TB but I think there is something else going on.
Kris
I am certainly going to clean the TB but I think there is something else going on.
Kris
Kurt,
For us TB newbies, can you carify a couple of things? (and maybe I should study the FSM more first, but it's at home).
The first picture you show indicates the recirculation flow pattern right? To the right of it there is a metallic tubular looking thing. What is it? In the last picture, there appears to be a hose going into the port. Is that attached to the EGR and do some sort of measureing or sampling of the exhaust gas? How does the TB fit back on flush with the hose going in like that?
Thanks for any clarification.
Rookie2
For us TB newbies, can you carify a couple of things? (and maybe I should study the FSM more first, but it's at home).
The first picture you show indicates the recirculation flow pattern right? To the right of it there is a metallic tubular looking thing. What is it? In the last picture, there appears to be a hose going into the port. Is that attached to the EGR and do some sort of measureing or sampling of the exhaust gas? How does the TB fit back on flush with the hose going in like that?
Thanks for any clarification.
Rookie2
That hose had fallen just before the pic. It goes to the top of the TB. It is the same thing in both pics. The metal is the clamp. The other thing I didn't write is about the 2mm buildup of carbon behind the butterfly before cleaning.
semlin
curmudgeon
unless Kurt's rig is very different from mine, that tube is a vacuum hose that is disconnected from the throttle body and hanging loose. It has nothing to do with the intake chamber but appears to because of an optical illusion.
[quote author=IBCRUSN link=board=2;threadid=15114;start=msg143748#msg143748 date=1082677748]
I'm in the same boat as Nova, in fact mine worse. The other day it decided that 600 was too high and dropped down to 400 then down to 200 and intermitantly stalls. It runs great if I hold the pedal to make 600-800rpm. What is really frustrating is that it went bad the other day with no warning.
I am certainly going to clean the TB but I think there is something else going on.
Kris
[/quote]
My idle had slowly gone down to ~400-450 over several weeks this winter, idle was "rough" at those RPM's. After cleaning the throttle body (w/out removing it) idle went to ~600 RPM and is very smooth. I intend to do a more thorough job and remove the throttle body to clean it, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
It could be your problem as well.
I'm in the same boat as Nova, in fact mine worse. The other day it decided that 600 was too high and dropped down to 400 then down to 200 and intermitantly stalls. It runs great if I hold the pedal to make 600-800rpm. What is really frustrating is that it went bad the other day with no warning.
I am certainly going to clean the TB but I think there is something else going on.
Kris
[/quote]
My idle had slowly gone down to ~400-450 over several weeks this winter, idle was "rough" at those RPM's. After cleaning the throttle body (w/out removing it) idle went to ~600 RPM and is very smooth. I intend to do a more thorough job and remove the throttle body to clean it, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
It could be your problem as well.
Hey Junk, I'm spending next week in NJ. I have 3 machines to service so I'll be there at least til Thursday. If you'd like another set of eyes to take a look at your problem I'd have time in the evening. Just haven't got my schedule yet so I don't know where abouts in NJ I'll be. Should get the schedule tomorrow.
MoJ, I lost a 1/2 cup at most. I stuck a TB screw in the hose, just in case and a cap on the male end. I only took off one side.
semlin
curmudgeon
[quote author=MoJ link=board=2;threadid=15114;start=msg143794#msg143794 date=1082682476]
Before removing the TB the FSM says to drain the coolant - is this necessary?
[/quote]
No. I have removed it twice now and spilled maybe a teaspoon.
Before removing the TB the FSM says to drain the coolant - is this necessary?
[/quote]
No. I have removed it twice now and spilled maybe a teaspoon.
Kris,
Your problem may be the large hose that goes between the air filter and the throttle body. They tend to crack on the underside with age and cause the symptoms you're reporting.
You need to identify your year model and other specifics before you ask questions. Most of us put that information in our sig lines so we don't pi$$ off the regulars, addicts, mods, hall monitors, and lifers.
-B-
Your problem may be the large hose that goes between the air filter and the throttle body. They tend to crack on the underside with age and cause the symptoms you're reporting.
You need to identify your year model and other specifics before you ask questions. Most of us put that information in our sig lines so we don't pi$$ off the regulars, addicts, mods, hall monitors, and lifers.
-B-
OK, I already checked the intake hose, vac lines, linkage and the other obvious stuff. I am going to clean the TB as best I can for right now and when I have more time to dink with it I'll remove it and do it right. We'll see what effect that has.
Sorry for the lack of info. I have a 94 fzj80 with possible plans in the works to swap in a Vortec 350 in place of the 4.5L.
Kris
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Rather than make a new post here is the update. I performed the quick clean, surprised by how much crap was built up inside the intake and on the throttle plate. Checked the codes, what came up was the following - 4 1. That being said, Darren or whomever has the manual, can you check the codes for me? I also reset the ECU as stated in a previous post. The moment I have been waiting for.....I think it helped, so far it idled up more than it did the other day - 1200rpm then down to 800. I still need to take it for a spin but at least it appears driveable. I will add to this once I have a chance. Thanks for the help so far.
Kris
Sorry for the lack of info. I have a 94 fzj80 with possible plans in the works to swap in a Vortec 350 in place of the 4.5L.
Kris
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Rather than make a new post here is the update. I performed the quick clean, surprised by how much crap was built up inside the intake and on the throttle plate. Checked the codes, what came up was the following - 4 1. That being said, Darren or whomever has the manual, can you check the codes for me? I also reset the ECU as stated in a previous post. The moment I have been waiting for.....I think it helped, so far it idled up more than it did the other day - 1200rpm then down to 800. I still need to take it for a spin but at least it appears driveable. I will add to this once I have a chance. Thanks for the help so far.
Kris
Better pic.
Cleaning the EGR port will only help the EGR gas flow. It wouldn't help the low idel as the EGR is not open at that time. (i think)
Make sure you replace the old gaskets but if you do reuse them make sure you dont get a vacuum leak or more problems you will have
Remove the rad cap to let out pressure so you won't blow out rad fluid when removing the TB.
Cleaning the EGR port will only help the EGR gas flow. It wouldn't help the low idel as the EGR is not open at that time. (i think)
Make sure you replace the old gaskets but if you do reuse them make sure you dont get a vacuum leak or more problems you will have
Remove the rad cap to let out pressure so you won't blow out rad fluid when removing the TB.
The reason I had the TB off was to fix a code 71 on a '94 and clean things up.
[quote author=IBCRUSN link=board=2;threadid=15114;start=msg143748#msg143748 date=1082677748]
I'm in the same boat as Nova, in fact mine worse. The other day it decided that 600 was too high and dropped down to 400 then down to 200 and intermitantly stalls. It runs great if I hold the pedal to make 600-800rpm. What is really frustrating is that it went bad the other day with no warning.
I am certainly going to clean the TB but I think there is something else going on.
Kris
[/quote]
IB, not sure if it's definitely the same, but if this only happens after the truck warms up, it could be the EGR valve. Not saying it is and not saying it's clogged, but those are the exact symptoms mine was showing and replacing the valve fixed it immediately. I'm not sure what all that valve does, but it did not look clogged at all.
I'm in the same boat as Nova, in fact mine worse. The other day it decided that 600 was too high and dropped down to 400 then down to 200 and intermitantly stalls. It runs great if I hold the pedal to make 600-800rpm. What is really frustrating is that it went bad the other day with no warning.
I am certainly going to clean the TB but I think there is something else going on.
Kris
[/quote]
IB, not sure if it's definitely the same, but if this only happens after the truck warms up, it could be the EGR valve. Not saying it is and not saying it's clogged, but those are the exact symptoms mine was showing and replacing the valve fixed it immediately. I'm not sure what all that valve does, but it did not look clogged at all.
I have been thinking about cleaning the TB, was thinking of doing some other things at the same time, clean and O-ring the Idle Air Control valve (cure high start idle) Pm EGR checkouts/cleaning, heat wrap for the where the EGR pipe passes near that wire bundle (heard about it have not found it on my truck) is this a good list? What other inexpensive/free PM could be done at the same time. Is it worth wile to remove the 2 intake manifolds to clean them? That looks like it may be a lot of work but may make it more open for the other tasks, was considering cleaning the accessible portions of the intake chamber in the head, do I need any other parts besides TB and intake gaskets?
It looks as though the "4 1" code is for the TPS. Are these a common failure?
I reset the ECU and I'll prolly put on 300mi in the next day so I'll recheck the codes then to see if it pops up again.
I reset the ECU and I'll prolly put on 300mi in the next day so I'll recheck the codes then to see if it pops up again.
