How to change Power Steering Fluid (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RavenTai
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks for the write up on this PM.
I just changed mine, 124k, due to loud whining. It was bad enough that I could feel the vibrations through the steering wheel.
I followed your proceedures with a slight modification. I found that even with the engine off turning lock to lock emptied the resevoir very fast. I whent lock to lock once each way and it emptied the res. Once I started to add new fluid I realized that a siphon had set up. So I just kept adding fluid until it flowed clean. Not as fast as turning and filling at the same time but it worked and I didn't need help.
I filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and all noise and vibrations have dissapeared. This is a good simple job. It took less than 45 min. not counting the trip to the store for parts.
1/2
I just changed mine, 124k, due to loud whining. It was bad enough that I could feel the vibrations through the steering wheel.
I followed your proceedures with a slight modification. I found that even with the engine off turning lock to lock emptied the resevoir very fast. I whent lock to lock once each way and it emptied the res. Once I started to add new fluid I realized that a siphon had set up. So I just kept adding fluid until it flowed clean. Not as fast as turning and filling at the same time but it worked and I didn't need help.
I filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and all noise and vibrations have dissapeared. This is a good simple job. It took less than 45 min. not counting the trip to the store for parts.
1/2
Last edited:
RT-
Thanks for the write up. This method worked well. I used this process after I changed out the larger non-pressure hose (the previous owner had a section of heater hose in there...ugh, I replaced with OEM).
Feedback for your method - Step 8: The 3/8 ID hose (clear fish bowl type) blocked off w/ 3/8" dia. bolt...I just could not get that to fit over the metal "L" return line. I wound up using a small~ish 1/2" ID hose that fit much easier over the flare at the bottom of the "L"; a hose clamp cinched up a good seal.
Thanks again for the write up.
-KK
Thanks for the write up. This method worked well. I used this process after I changed out the larger non-pressure hose (the previous owner had a section of heater hose in there...ugh, I replaced with OEM).
Feedback for your method - Step 8: The 3/8 ID hose (clear fish bowl type) blocked off w/ 3/8" dia. bolt...I just could not get that to fit over the metal "L" return line. I wound up using a small~ish 1/2" ID hose that fit much easier over the flare at the bottom of the "L"; a hose clamp cinched up a good seal.
Thanks again for the write up.
-KK
I used a big syringe and some hose and stuck into the pump, and sucked some out until I couldn't suck anymore, put more in, turned the wheel a bunch and then repeated the process. It's not as through, but my power steering fluid is the color it's supposed to be now. IE, not black.
- Thread starter
- #25
Glad you like it, it does work well,
one correction through, turns out there is some form of filtration in this system, I am not sure how fine or how effective ti is though,
Pics thanks to Photoman here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=188835
I think his idea of trying to get the funk out of the bottom sounds good.
one correction through, turns out there is some form of filtration in this system, I am not sure how fine or how effective ti is though,
Pics thanks to Photoman here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=188835
I think his idea of trying to get the funk out of the bottom sounds good.
This was great, just did it tonight. It was really a lot easier and cleaner to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir before the return line is unplugged.
Plug the return line nipple on the reservoir with whatever plug you decide to use and then fill up with new fluid. Then proceed with the rest of the procedure to flush the system.
I probably spilled about 2 cap fulls of fluid....very little.
Thanks for the great info.
Plug the return line nipple on the reservoir with whatever plug you decide to use and then fill up with new fluid. Then proceed with the rest of the procedure to flush the system.
I probably spilled about 2 cap fulls of fluid....very little.
Thanks for the great info.
Worked great for me too. Although I couldn't suck out much from the reservoir as there was some white plate like thing inside it. So I lost quite a bit when I pulled the return line. Also if you use the 3/8 hose barb, you might not want to push it all the way on the return hose. I did, and it was a MAJOR pain to get back off, especially since the hose was covered in fluid and really slick.
BenMara
Asian Redneck
Bump this topic up.
I recently put new belts in when i did my radiator, fan clutch and 150amp alt, now there is a whine when i turn the wheel. this sound wasnt there before. Could this be the loose belts? how do you know when its too tight or Power steering?
I recently put new belts in when i did my radiator, fan clutch and 150amp alt, now there is a whine when i turn the wheel. this sound wasnt there before. Could this be the loose belts? how do you know when its too tight or Power steering?
- Thread starter
- #29
If its any help the power steering pump is gear driven directly from the crank, no belt, so if your noiise is coming from the power steering system it is not belt related.
BenMara
Asian Redneck
Duh me smacks forhead....
Aids10
xploraz.net
THX M8!
Need to do this on the Tundra
Need to do this on the Tundra
This is excellent! I have been thinking of doing this as part of the baselining of my new rig. There is significant whining in the power steering when cold. Just one question...a couple people suggested flushing with AT fluid. Please clarify...do you flush with AT fluid and then drain and fill with power steering fluid? Or you just use the ATF as your power steering fluid?
A couple people here said to add some downey...as in fabric softener? Do you just add a cap full in the reservoir?
On the baselining page, it says to use Mobil DTE 24 - "Highly recommended". I looked for it on Amazon and all I found was Mobil DTE 24 hydraulic fluid. Is this correct? Just want to make sure I am putting the right stuff in my rig. I am somewhat new to mechanics so please forgive me if I sound ignorant
A couple people here said to add some downey...as in fabric softener? Do you just add a cap full in the reservoir?
On the baselining page, it says to use Mobil DTE 24 - "Highly recommended". I looked for it on Amazon and all I found was Mobil DTE 24 hydraulic fluid. Is this correct? Just want to make sure I am putting the right stuff in my rig. I am somewhat new to mechanics so please forgive me if I sound ignorant
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,233
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
I wouldn't, not a fan or water in the system.
Correct.
How are your return hoses? Most that we see are rock hard, combined with other leak repairs, reduces flushing to almost zero, the fluid is replaced during the repair.
I haven't looked at it yet, still getting my materials together. Is it a simple process to replace them?
This 13 1/2 year old thread was very helpful to me! I thought I needed a new ps pump, it was making so much noise. A flush out with new ATF, and just a little Downey, and it's quiet as can be. I believe the previous owner used ps fluid, as it was the color of a Coke and smelled burnt, but maybe it was just really old.
Ok, I screwed up royally doing this and feel like a complete moron. This was on my son's 80 series. I put in a new PS pump about 8 months ago. Everything was smooth for a while, then it started moaning. I looked in the reservoir recently and noticed a lot of bubbles in there. I am guessing there is an air leak somewhere? The plan was to tighten everything up and flush it. I got everything ready for the flush this morning and when I went to plug the return inlet on the reservoir, my DUMB ASS put a cork in there that was too small. Spent the next hour trying to get it out. I eventually took the reservoir off and apart. Figured, what the hell, mine as well clean the filter. I get the cork out (I am an idiot!). Cleaned the reservoir. Get everything buttoned back up. Fill the reservoir with fluid and my son starts turning the wheel. It spits some fluid out, but not much. After turning for quite a while, nothing was coming out and the ATF in the reservoir was not lowering. We tried turning the wheel with the engine running and nothing came out. We hooked up all the lines and lowered the vehicle to try with wheels on the ground. Cranked it up and the power steering is not working at all now. What could I have done? I know my dumb ass did something. I feel as if something was wrong to begin with because it was making a lot of noise and there was clearly cavitation going on. Could I have just made the problem worse and ruined the PS pump? I have a good friend that knows how to work on these, but I feel bad harassing him all of the time. Just thought I would throw this out there and see if anyone has any suggestions. I forgot to mention, we weren't 100% successful in getting the lid back on the reservoir. There's some slight leakage around that seal. Going to get another reservoir from my buddy. Should I just try again with new reservoir or does it sound like I'll need to take the PS pump off and examine as well? Sorry for the long rant.
I just did this PS fluid exchange this morning, with no drama. This write up was very helpful. Specifically, have the 3/8" double barb and the 3/8" tubing, and the snug 3/8" rubber cap, avoided unnecessary mess. (Though I did make a fair mess being a bozo, despite having the right stuff on hand.)
I just went ahead and removed the entire PS fluid reservoir (3 12mm bolts) and back flowed some brake cleaner through it. Then, with it off the truck, I gently sprayed some air through it and poured some ATF into the reservoir and let it run out both hose connections to thoroughly rinse out the reservoir. I then reconnected it, refilled it, cycled it several times until I got really clean ATF coming back to the reservoir and buttoned everything up.
I've been using Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF for years with good results in the PS system. I was tempted to switch to the Mobil DTE 24 as others have mentioned, but in the end I decided to stick with the MaxLife. The PS cap itself calls for ATF, and who am I to second guess Mr. T? Maybe I'll change my mind someday, but today is not that day.
YMMV.
I just went ahead and removed the entire PS fluid reservoir (3 12mm bolts) and back flowed some brake cleaner through it. Then, with it off the truck, I gently sprayed some air through it and poured some ATF into the reservoir and let it run out both hose connections to thoroughly rinse out the reservoir. I then reconnected it, refilled it, cycled it several times until I got really clean ATF coming back to the reservoir and buttoned everything up.
I've been using Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF for years with good results in the PS system. I was tempted to switch to the Mobil DTE 24 as others have mentioned, but in the end I decided to stick with the MaxLife. The PS cap itself calls for ATF, and who am I to second guess Mr. T? Maybe I'll change my mind someday, but today is not that day.
YMMV.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
I'm currently on the fence with changing to DTE 24. I also have had great results with the Valvoline maxlife ATF and like the idea of having spare fluid being common on a wheeling trip. The ATF and DTE 24 are supposed to be compatible though , so there's that, no need to carry extra DTE.
As I read more mud and decided, does anyone know if there is a preference on the Mobil DTE 24 "Ultra" and regular DTE 24?
Products
www.mobil.com
Or go with Synthetic:
PdsDetailsPage
Mobil SHC™ 500 Series oils are exceptional performance hydraulic oils formulated from synthesised, wax-free hydrocarbon base fluids combined with a carefully engineered super-stabilised additive system. They are exceptionally high quality, wide-temperature, shear-stable hydraulic oils with...
www.mobil.com
Have to copy and paste the file below into the address line:
file:///C:/Users/BLUEBE~1/AppData/Local/Temp/GL-XX-Mobil-SHC-500-Series.pdf
I changed to DTE 24 and then the PS pump started leaking. I suggest staying the the MaxLife ATF. I may switch back to the ATF and see if the leak stops. If not, I will have to rebuild the pump although that is the long term solution.
