Those connectors look just like the Japanese standard type ones in the Smittybilt air compressor. They are not proprietary and you can buy plug-in adapters to convert to the industrial type.
And you can buy air chucks that screw onto that hose. Looks like it may be the same factory that makes the smittybilt and Ironman air compressors but different main hose.
In case I need to use warranty….I didn’t want to cut any hoses.
Yeah, that's the same hose, fittings and dial just the IM one is 8' long and I agree, the pumps are probably from the same factory too, maybe slightly different internals per branding demands but the specs are damn similar. I noticed the same on my smittybuilt deflator I got at jeep safari expo a few years ago (I wish the guage was inverted though, so you can read it without the hose being kinked to invert the dial) vs. the ARB one.... Yeah I may swap my fittings out for industrial NPT fittings at some point, I'm not sure if the high flow would matter for me on a portable pump vs. compressor with tank.
BTW, I just watched your top 5 mods video (and I agree with your ideas) and commented, but seeing your rig via this video, I wanted to ask about minimum ground clearance you have with this setup, lift, tires and skids. What's your clearance spec from ground to skidplate (near the drain plug access)?
thanks and props!
I’ve been spending a lot of time acquiring new camping gear for a one week trip. It’s different camping for a weekend than a week. And I think I’m overdoing it! Lol.
In terms of the ground clearance from bottom of the front engine skid plate to the cement in my driveway, it goes from 11 3/4” at the front of the engine by the oil filter, 11 1/2” in the middle, and 11” at the back of the transmission skid plate. I have no transfer case skid plate.
Those connectors look just like the Japanese standard type ones in the Smittybilt air compressor. They are not proprietary and you can buy plug-in adapters to convert to the industrial type.
And you can buy air chucks that screw onto that hose. Looks like it may be the same factory that makes the smittybilt and Ironman air compressors but different main hose.
In case I need to use warranty….I didn’t want to cut any hoses.
Yeah great tip…unfortunately I had an old roll of double sided tape and it worked great on one side, but wasn’t strong enough to hold the bracket on the other side.
So, I drilled the holes on the side that was held in place and loosely attached the bolts. Then I went to the other side and aligned the bracket with the weak tape and and held it in place to drill the holes.
In the end, all the holes lined up on first try, so the double sided tape was a great tip.
I also did the unlock wire to the locking latch to open the barn door from the inside.
My $5 Jeep handle was a previous project, but I took the opportunity to strengthen the bolts and washers for a tighter fit.
Oh my lockout slide valve arrived and I’m able to air up my tires more easily and faster.
1. Turn on smittybilt air compressor
2. Attach air chuck to tire
3. Slide valve on/off to either check tire pressure or pump air
4. Once I reach 40 psi, disconnect air chuck
5. If another tire needs air, go to step 2
6. When all 4 tires are done, use separate digital tire pressure gauge to get all 4 tires at same psi in case I went slightly over
Airing up from 18 psi to 40 psi takes about 10 minutes on all 4 tires
what's overcomplicated slide valve for? stopping flow to see pressure?
My viair 88p has a gauge on the pump so turn off, read pressure. Did you try that with the smitty pump? Would the gauge read 'true(ish)' when pump turned off? My viair is about 4-6 psi off. i stop @ 40 gets me about 35psi in the tire.
I guess that's more walking around though since gauge is on tire side vs/ pump side.
Did you get the chance to hard-mount the pump before the trip??
No to hardmount. Yes to what you said to measure air pressure more accurately.
The over-complicated lockout slide valve is just to avoid turning off compressor to true up measuring tire air pressure.
The smittybilt analog gauge was not consistently off 4-6 psi like yours. Mine was all over the place when I switched tires sometimes it’s off by 10 psi sometimes 15 psi.
Walking to compressor to turn off or on takes too long when you do the rear tires in the sun and dusty trail.
This is much faster to slide valve off, measure tire air pressure, slide valve on to continue airing up to desired psi.
Once I do all tires to 40 psi, I come around with digital gauge to get tires within 0.2 psi of each other between 39.9 psi to 40.1 psi.
I was trying to refresh my memory on what changes I could still make to the rear to make it articulate a little more and decided to update the list of what I've done so far on the rear.
I might try to remove the rear sway bars to see if there's any difference in articulation.
You'll for sure see a few inches more. Be careful as you will run into other clearance issues. I ended up cutting and rewelding my gas tank skid plate to avoid the driveshaft hitting. Also had to trim the plastic bumper slightly as the tires were hitting on full flex
I was trying to refresh my memory on what changes I could still make to the rear to make it articulate a little more and decided to update the list of what I've done so far on the rear.
I might try to remove the rear sway bars to see if there's any difference in articulation.
FSB is kind Critical for on road safety, but RSB much less so. On rigs like ours you won't notice it fine with in road driving and will appreciate it's absence of road.
I was trying to refresh my memory on what changes I could still make to the rear to make it articulate a little more and decided to update the list of what I've done so far on the rear.
I might try to remove the rear sway bars to see if there's any difference in articulation.
This weekend after taking my Gx camping, I finally blew one of my rear bags trying to hope over a stump. So it looks like I will be finally tackling the rear lift now. Once again id like to steal your setup.. (Running 6112s up front like you did)
One question I had while poking around at the parts needed:
Are these the shocks you purchased? The top hat is incorrect but it still list them as gx470 rear shocks. Curious if the pic is just wrong.