Hey guys, whatcha think?? Front winch bumper mockup!!

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is the stout company still around
any info or telephone#
how much for their front bumpers
thanks
 
i like it. It reminds me of the 100 series bumper made up by (And you all will chime in quickly) one of the Nor Cal Guys? Yes?? His is gusseted which will allow much thiner walled steel w/ added stregth-OR....

You could go thinner walled yet and box as much as you can...

I have just always been trying to counter the utter weight of the 80 in everything I put on my truck. Take every non-needed part off, all the way down to the small bracket that bolts to the passenger side rear axle pan hard rod bracket, spare tire lift, spare tire "bumper" bar, etc.

If you are not all that worried about weight the above comments may be moot.
 
ronin-0707 said:
is the stout company still around
any info or telephone#
how much for their front bumpers
thanks


No, they are not.

The bumper depicted above is one of one produced.
 
Dan, what thickness of sheet metal is your bumper made of? And do you know approx how much it weighs?
 
BRKLYN1 said:
I went with 3/16" all the way around for the bumper and 1/4" for the mounting flanges. try to get as much of it folded as you can(instead of welded panals). I have givin it some tesing and the 3/16" seems be good i have pushed some big dead trees out of the way done some winching to the point that the truck was getting draged. my 2 cents 3/16 is plenty thick.


Hey Brklyn1 that's a good looking bumper.
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
...I will be relocating the AC dryer, as the bumper hangs down far enough, and I couldn't get it to protect the dryer. I'm hoping to be able to just snuggle it up a bit higher in its mount by about 1/2"...
The dryer can be moved up in its mount 1.5 inches. Requires very careful bending of the ac tubing. The height it can be raised is limited by the parking light assembly mounted above it. Be sure to clip off the bottom the the dryer mount, as leaving it hanging low would subject it to snagging and ripping off the dryer. I removed the lower 2.25 inches of the mount when I raised by dryer.
 
Ary - one thought - what about making the bumper the width of the body not including the fender flares? Then have some bolt-on end pieces made to make it as wide as the flares, removable if/when your flares come off?

This is what I would do only because I know eventually my flares are coming off.

Overall looks great though.

David
 
Rich said:
The dryer can be moved up in its mount 1.5 inches. Requires very careful bending of the ac tubing. The height it can be raised is limited by the parking light assembly mounted above it. Be sure to clip off the bottom the the dryer mount, as leaving it hanging low would subject it to snagging and ripping off the dryer.

Can this be done w/o having to recharge the system?
 
OZCAL said:
Ary - one thought - what about making the bumper the width of the body not including the fender flares? Then have some bolt-on end pieces made to make it as wide as the flares, removable if/when your flares come off?

This is what I would do only because I know eventually my flares are coming off.

Overall looks great though.

David

David, I'm still fine tuning the width. The flares are coming off. That has been decided. I do want it slightly wider than the body though so if I happen into a tree, the bumper will hit and not the fender. Had a nice little dent in my old truck from just such an occurance where the ARB didn't stick out far enough.

Ary
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
Can this be done w/o having to recharge the system?
Yep, just unbolt the strap, and carefully bend the ac lines to raise the dryer. I did this with the bumper, grill, and valance removed. No need to open up the ac lines.
 
Rich said:
Dan, what thickness of sheet metal is your bumper made of? And do you know approx how much it weighs?


Which one?

Both are mine.

I assume you mean the Stout. It is heavier than the Slee. I have not put it on a scale but I would estimate it at around 90 lbs or so. The shell is 3/16 and the center has a box along the bottom in between the frame rails. The sideplates are 1/4 inch. There are support pipes that go from the sideplates out to the wings.

The Slee is 3/16 and the sideplates are 1/4. The Slee fits better and is more contoured. The Stout is essentially a prototype and had Grant made more of them he probably would have refined them. The Slee will fit up to a 12k Warn. The Stout will fit only up to an 8k as the "winch box" is smaller.
 
Dan,

I see some extra bolts in the top of your new Slee bumper. Winch cover?

-B-
 
Thanks for the info Dan. Didn't know that you had swapped bumpers.
 
Beowulf said:
Dan,

I see some extra bolts in the top of your new Slee bumper. Winch cover?

-B-


Yes.

I completed it just this afternoon in fact...:D
 
Ary,

Seeing as how you're a starving college student w/o a job and you need:
-good approach angle
-winch
-cheap

Why not purchase an used front oem bumper for peanuts and build a nice hidden winch mount behind it? I think the OEM bumper is about the best you can get in the approach angle dept but not nearly as stout as the aftermarket ones. Also, they only weigh 35 lbs plus the 85 lbs winch = 111 lbs. This is light as compared to an aftermarket bumper of approx 90 lbs + 85 lbs = 175 lbs.

This combo is lightweight, cheap and easier on the fuel economy and still have money for Ramen noodles! At least that's what I lived on during college. I'm sure you've already thought about this but just my .02 cents!

Good luck.

Ali
 
Ali, thanks for the input. My criteria also includes deer and tree protection, which the OEM bumper don't provide very well IMO. Additionally I think I will have a better approach angle with this bumper than the OEM. IIRC the OEM sticks out past the ends of the frame rail at least 2-3". My bumper will stick out <1" past the end of the frame rail at the point that affects approach angle.

I've got an exam this afternoon, after which I will be contacting the fabricator to get an idea on price and lead time, at which point I will decide whether to proceed with this project or not.

Ary

alia176 said:
Ary,

Seeing as how you're a starving college student w/o a job and you need:
-good approach angle
-winch
-cheap

Why not purchase an used front oem bumper for peanuts and build a nice hidden winch mount behind it? I think the OEM bumper is about the best you can get in the approach angle dept but not nearly as stout as the aftermarket ones. Also, they only weigh 35 lbs plus the 85 lbs winch = 111 lbs. This is light as compared to an aftermarket bumper of approx 90 lbs + 85 lbs = 175 lbs.

This combo is lightweight, cheap and easier on the fuel economy and still have money for Ramen noodles! At least that's what I lived on during college. I'm sure you've already thought about this but just my .02 cents!

Good luck.

Ali
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
Ali, thanks for the input. My criteria also includes deer and tree protection, which the OEM bumper don't provide very well IMO. Additionally I think I will have a better approach angle with this bumper than the OEM. IIRC the OEM sticks out past the ends of the frame rail at least 2-3". My bumper will stick out <1" past the end of the frame rail at the point that affects approach angle.

Ary

Ok, sounds good. If cost starts rising too quickly for this project, think about using high tensile 1/8" steel. Since you're gonna box it, it'll provide very good strength w/o the added weight. If you're gonna use a fabricator for this project, let us know what kind of numbers he's coming up with . I'd venture to guess that time and materials may end up coming close to >$800. Unless the dude is your friend and cutting you a deal.

Good luck.

Ali
 
alia176 said:
Ok, sounds good. If cost starts rising too quickly for this project, think about using high tensile 1/8" steel. Since you're gonna box it, it'll provide very good strength w/o the added weight. If you're gonna use a fabricator for this project, let us know what kind of numbers he's coming up with . I'd venture to guess that time and materials may end up coming close to >$800. Unless the dude is your friend and cutting you a deal.

Good luck.

Ali

Perhaps what I said above was misleading. I'm using a shop to form the 3 main sections of the bumper. The remaining fab work will be performed by yours truly. I have the ability to weld/cut/grind/drill/etc, just not brake 3/16-1/4" steel. The high-tensile material is a good idea, and I will discuss that with him. Thanks.

Basically my plan is to send him "patterns" for the 3 sections, have him bend them and send them back. Then I will create the brackets, weld everything together, and mount it myself.

Ary
 
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