Help Please with resetting stuck sunroof

[sigung]

I saw an advert on Ebay UK for a Hydrogen Generator but got cold feet after doing some searches on the net and people saying these are scams.

I am looking forwards to your dyno results & being re-educated... if this works it would be awesome.... (especially like the part about 'stick it to big oil')

In reference to the scam part, I'm going to quote myself from a previous part of this thread. IE:

The problem arises ( and this is why so many people are crying "Scam" ) when the ECU senses mileage figures that are greater than what was programmed into it by the factory, IE, it thinks the engine is running too lean, so it compensates by enriching the fuel air mixture. Most people are not aware of this, or if they are, they are unsuccessful in their attempts to compensate for it. When they try an HHO generator, they get good mileage for awhile, then it goes right back to where it was once the ECU compensates. There are crude MAF sensor devices you can plug into the system and screw around with a couple of little knobs forever to try to overcome that, but THAT is a very inelegant solution. The right way to do it is to install a chip that overrides the ECU. There are chip makers out there that specialize in this burgeoning market, but alas, most of THEM are the true scams. There is one and only one company THAT I KNOW OF ( there may be a few more ) out there that is supplying a true microprocessor controlled device to actively re-map the ECU when you have an HHO generator installed. The company is Volo Performance. If you go there, check out their scam page, to check the bad chip companies.

Bottom line is a decent setup like I have will cost about $350.00 and another 90 bucks for the chip. It will pay for itself in about 500 miles.

 

[sigung]

Thanks for the tip and a little more info on HHO

Did you take the base plate of the switches off, I think it is under that. I remember seeing it when I had the headliner down and sunroof out, but can't recall where it is exactly.

Also very curious on the hydrogen, a guy I know was trying to make a larger generator with some rather fancy circuitry to be the only fuel source for a small car, not sure that it ever came through or not.

Is there any way to tell how lean/rich the engine is actually running with the H2 going in so ensure things are running OK?

No, I thought about doing it, but I didn't go that far, I will check into it this weekend, THANKS for the tip!

RE: HHO as the only fuel. It's been done by Stanley Meyers ( do a youtube search ), and he was killed for his trouble. People who try to pioneer true hydrogen on demand as a commercial enterprise are quickly attacked by people who are determined to keep big oil on top. A few lunatics out there like myself using HHO SUPPLEMENTATION, nobody worries about. I DO have schematics for modifying a vehicle to run on pure hydrogen, it's not that hard to do, but if I were to do that, and word got out, I might be jeopardizing my personal safety, and if I tried to do it as a commercial venture, it could get a whole lot worse.

To make things even more interesting, Meyers used radio frequency to fracture water as his method of causing it to give up its' hydrogen. There was not even an electrolyte needed, just radio waves fracturing water, producing hydrogen, and running his vehicle.

He could have gone cross country on a gallon of water and nothing else. If you think about the damage to the oil industry, ensuing loss of profits and livelihoods and industry, you can easily see why the vested powers cannot allow pure HHO on demand to succeed as a commercial venture. It would ruin the economy of several nations. This is why people die when they try to do it.

RE: Is there any way to tell how lean/rich the engine is actually running with the H2 going in so ensure things are running OK?

Well, I don't know of any down home way, maybe some of the other forum members do. It is safe to say, however, that the ECU will err on the side of rich rather than lean. With a good microcontroller like the one Volo sells, it is programmed to prevent the engine from compensating for the increased fuel economy and nothing more, so it will not make the engine run leaner, it will only prevent it from running richer. Hopefully that is a satisfactory answer, if not, let me know, and I'll try to do better.

So, the bottom line is;
HHO increases fuel economy by from anywhere between 25 and 50%
HHO increases power by an average of 20-25% and is especially noticeable when towing.
HHO cleans the engine constantly as it's burned, and after a few thousand miles, all deposits and carbon buildup are gone.
HHO causes the engine to run MUCH cooler.
HHO causes the ECU to want to make the car run richer, because the factory program says "You're supposed to be getting X number of miles per gallon according to my pre-programmed factory settings. You are getting too many miles per gallon, so you must be running too lean, so I will give you more gas."

The last statement is why you need to re-map the ECU dynamically to prevent it from enriching the fuel air mixture. If you DON'T, what will happen is that in a few miles your newly increased gas mileage will revert back to what it always was, but you will now be running too rich, with the potential of engine damage.

 

[jeffro109]

Thanks for the additional info on rich/lean, my first thought was that it would lean it out too much, but it sounds like not.

That radio frequency part is exactly what this other guy was trying to make, I hope to see him later this summer and get an update on it.

 

[Squash]

Why not drop the sun roof motor, looks like a couple of screws, then manually run the sun roof through a couple of cycles remembering to lube the tracks.

Before replacing the motor try the switch functions.as there will be no load, for here it will be a matter of yes it works or no!

If you suspect the motor disconnect the leads and run power directly to the motor this will tell you whether there is a wiring /fuse problem or the motor is in need of tlc.

Good luck

 

[sigung]

Great idea

Why not drop the sun roof motor, looks like a couple of screws, then manually run the sun roof through a couple of cycles remembering to lube the tracks.

Before replacing the motor try the switch functions.as there will be no load, for here it will be a matter of yes it works or no!

If you suspect the motor disconnect the leads and run power directly to the motor this will tell you whether there is a wiring /fuse problem or the motor is in need of tlc.

Good luck

Okay now we're getting somewhere. This is an awesome idea. I guess the deeper I get into that little hole, the more scared I get that I will mess something up, but this sounds doable. I will post the results after this coming weekend ( my first opportunity to work on it )

 

[Ample]

In reference to the scam part, I'm going to quote myself from a previous part of this thread. IE:

The problem arises ( and this is why so many people are crying "Scam" ) when the ECU senses mileage figures that are greater than what was programmed into it by the factory, IE, it thinks the engine is running too lean, so it compensates by enriching the fuel air mixture. Most people are not aware of this, or if they are, they are unsuccessful in their attempts to compensate for it. When they try an HHO generator, they get good mileage for awhile, then it goes right back to where it was once the ECU compensates. There are crude MAF sensor devices you can plug into the system and screw around with a couple of little knobs forever to try to overcome that, but THAT is a very inelegant solution. The right way to do it is to install a chip that overrides the ECU. There are chip makers out there that specialize in this burgeoning market, but alas, most of THEM are the true scams. There is one and only one company THAT I KNOW OF ( there may be a few more ) out there that is supplying a true microprocessor controlled device to actively re-map the ECU when you have an HHO generator installed. The company is Volo Performance. If you go there, check out their scam page, to check the bad chip companies.

Bottom line is a decent setup like I have will cost about $350.00 and another 90 bucks for the chip. It will pay for itself in about 500 miles.

Can you please clarify that this is actually a 'chip'. From research on the net regarding this GFORCE chip, people who seem to have purchased this are saying it's just a resistor and not a proper chip. The resistor fools the ecu into thinking the engine temp is lower than what it actually is... which could be potentially damage the engine.

 

[jamisobe]

Can you please clarify that this is actually a 'chip'. From research on the net regarding this GFORCE chip, people who seem to have purchased this are saying it's just a resistor and not a proper chip. The resistor fools the ecu into thinking the engine temp is lower than what it actually is... which could be potentially damage the engine.

Earlier in the thread he said that the GForce (chip/resistor) fools the engine into a lean state which is needed due to the inability of the ECU to recognize the presence of Hydrogen.

 

[sigung]

Can you please clarify that this is actually a 'chip'. From research on the net regarding this GFORCE chip, people who seem to have purchased this are saying it's just a resistor and not a proper chip. The resistor fools the ecu into thinking the engine temp is lower than what it actually is... which could be potentially damage the engine.

I already did clarify this in a later posting, I have noted that the GFORCE chip IS in fact a resistor bank and is a scam. . I do apologize for the earlier posting about the GFORCE chip. I have since been re-educated and realize the potential danger. Please do NOT use the GFORCE chip. I have also edited the original post where I mentioned that and removed the reference. However, the VOLO performance microprocessor I mentioned in a later post is is the only "chip" that I am aware of that is truly dynamically remapping the ECU tp compensate. My apologies for my earlier mistake. At this time, I have spent exhaustive amounts of time questioning the technicians at VOLO performance about the legitimacy of their microprocessor controlled units. I really want to be of service to the forum members and provide them with solid factual information, so if you need me to post my email exchanges with VOLO, I will be happy do do so.

 

[sigung]

Earlier in the thread he said that the GForce (chip/resistor) fools the engine into a lean state which is needed due to the inability of the ECU to recognize the presence of Hydrogen.

I have corrected this information and updated it, please read the posting, it's important.

 

[Ample]

I already did clarify this in a later posting, I have noted that the GFORCE chip IS in fact a resistor bank and is a scam. . I do apologize for the earlier posting about the GFORCE chip. I have since been re-educated and realize the potential danger. Please do NOT use the GFORCE chip. I have also edited the original post where I mentioned that and removed the reference. However, the VOLO performance microprocessor I mentioned in a later post is is the only "chip" that I am aware of that is truly dynamically remapping the ECU tp compensate. My apologies for my earlier mistake. At this time, I have spent exhaustive amounts of time questioning the technicians at VOLO performance about the legitimacy of their microprocessor controlled units. I really want to be of service to the forum members and provide them with solid factual information, so if you need me to post my email exchanges with VOLO, I will be happy do do so.

Thanks for clarifying about not using the G Force resistor. I will get in touch with VOLO to see about chipping my 4.2 turbo diesel Amazon (1HDFTE).

 

[jamisobe]

I have corrected this information and updated it, please read the posting, it's important.

Thank you for the clarification. I look forward to continuing to follow your results and experience.

I'm starting to consider experimenting with this on a cheap 4 stroke generator which would be a much simpler application with small consequences if I fail.

 

[sigung]

Some Details

Thank you for the clarification. I look forward to continuing to follow your results and experience.

I'm starting to consider experimenting with this on a cheap 4 stroke generator which would be a much simpler application with small consequences if I fail.

You're quite welcome, this is a murky subject, and clarity is essential. A generator sounds like a perfect project. No ECU to worry about!! You will need to figure out what is an appropriate HHO output for the engine size. Keep in mind you can regulate the amount of HHO the unit outputs by varying the amount of electolyte you add to the distilled water. As the solution becomes denser, more HHO is generated, and there is an increasing amperage draw on the battery supplying the power for the HHO unit.

 

[jamisobe]

You're quite welcome, this is a murky subject, and clarity is essential. A generator sounds like a perfect project. No ECU to worry about!! You will need to figure out what is an appropriate HHO output for the engine size. Keep in mind you can regulate the amount of HHO the unit outputs by varying the amount of electolyte you add to the distilled water. As the solution becomes denser, more HHO is generated, and there is an increasing amperage draw on the battery supplying the power for the HHO unit.

I will take a look at that. I am intrigued with the idea of running a small generator on HHO alone. Not sure how doable that would be, but I intend to find out.

 

[sigung]

Plans for HHO only engine

I will take a look at that. I am intrigued with the idea of running a small generator on HHO alone. Not sure how doable that would be, but I intend to find out.

I think there are some mods you have to do to accomplish it without engine damage.

Here is a link for complete plans to convert a car to run on HHO only, I'm sure the basic concepts would apply to any 4 stroke engine

Convert Your Car to Run on Water: Plans and Instructions

 

[sigung]

Update Base plate Impossible to Remove

Did you take the base plate of the switches off, I think it is under that. I remember seeing it when I had the headliner down and sunroof out, but can't recall where it is exactly.

Well, this sounded like a really good idea. I removed every screw, nut, bolt that I could gain access to with the idea that I would be able to remove the base plate as suggested and gain access to the Allen screw that could manually move the sunroof. Alas, the base plate is firmly held in place by an old Japanese sorcerer's spell and cannot be moved even when all fasteners have been removed. Any further suggestions greatly appreciated, but sadly I'm just about to give up..