HELP NEEDED_Replacing Intermediate Shaft on ‘03 LX470 (P/N 45203-60110)

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LC Lurker

LC Lurker

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Edit (3/23/2026): My mechanic said part was wrong and too long (45203-60110). Dealer says it’s correct

My LX has been having some trouble with stiff steering past 10 & 2 o’clock and struggles to return to center.

I got a new intermediate shaft and figured I could swap it out, but there’s no way to access the bolt(s) on the lower end where the u-joint connects.

I tried from the side with the tire and wheel liner off. I also tried from underneath with the front skid plate removed. The u-joint seems tightly located between the engine and the frame rail.

Am I missing something? Does the engine need to be removed to replace this?

Edit: As I’m looking at this, I can maybe see where I could access the u-joint by removing the CV boot (see last pic)…but please let me know if anyone else has an easier method.

Pic from the front end, underneath the truck
IMG_5892.webp


Pic from top, near the wheel liner, looking down at the u-joint

IMG_5898.webp


Pic 3, near cv
IMG_5899.webp


Edit for 2/24/2026:

For anyone looking into their issue(s) on this post, I have had some wandering on the highway, but not much.

My main issue was the stiffening when turning the wheel left or right AND not returning to center - it would literally keep the truck going the direction I turned unless I intervened. And yes, it was still stiff and required extra work to force it back to center.

I didn’t fix my intermediate shaft yet but I did spray some silicone lube on it for now (no idea if that’s recommended btw). The steering smoothness and returning to center is back to normal, but this is just a temporary solution. There still seemed to be at least a little bit of my wandering at highway speeds so keep that in mind.
 
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you got it right, that area is really tight, working on 100s for quite sometime when I service steering racks especially with rust, best way for me to loosen the bolt on the intermediate shaft is to remove the CV. It opens up a good amount of space to access that bolt.
 
OEMGUY0720 said:
you got it right, that area is really tight, working on 100s for quite sometime when I service steering racks especially with rust, best way for me to loosen the bolt on the intermediate shaft is to remove the CV. It opens up a good amount of space to access that bolt.
Click to expand...
Thanks! My family mechanic has some skinny ass arms so he’s gonna try to do it without removing the CV. It certainly looks possible, I just can’t get my fat ass arm through there enough lol.

Worst case, he’ll remove it like you mentioned.
 
It's so easy from below. Just get #1 undershield off.

If intermediate shaft #2 u-joint bad. They usually have excessive play. Which can be view from below, looking up. This has nothing to do with steering wheel lag.

When steering, lags in returning to center from a turn. It's almost always, Rack & Pinion mounting bushings are shot.

View of pinion input shaft and #2 intermediate shaft union, from below. Turn steering wheel to access the bolt.
5-25-20 (15).webp
 
excessive said:
"easy" and anything to do with steering work should never be used in the same sentence when talking about the 100 series :bang:
Click to expand...
LOL.
Easy for me on rigs kept clean and properly maintained. Difficulty & more time consuming, when a curdy rust bucket.
But I've done a lot of front end work, and I'm well tooled for it all.

While talking about Intermediate shaft. Very very important, in VGRS system (03-07LX470). Do not pound shaft in direction of steering wheel. Doing so can damage VGRS actuator.

Also do not use a shape air hammer chisel.
This came to me from a very well know shop.
IMG_5325.webp

Steering INTERMEDIATE No2 (4).webp

This one was on a VRGS system, which VGRS was damaged
IMG_5670.webp
 
@2001LC - My '06 has some very random, and at times, "darty" steering. I have replaced pretty much everything except this Intermediate Shaft and the steering rack. New UCA/LCA, TRE's (inner and outer), and alignment. Do you think this shaft could be a potential source of rouge steering? My 100 seems to randomly change directions 1-3* on the highway, just enough to feel like something is not 100%.

I've checked literally everything. 305K on the ODO.
 
For anyone looking into their issue(s) on this post, I have had some wandering on the highway, but not much.

My main issue was the stiffening when turning the wheel left or right AND not returning to center - it would literally keep the truck going the direction I turned unless I intervened. And yes, it was still stiff and required extra work to force it back to center.

I didn’t fix my intermediate shaft yet but I did spray some silicone lube on it for now (no idea if that’s recommended btw). The steering smoothness and returning to center is back to normal, but this is just a temporary solution. There still seemed to be at least a little bit of my wandering at highway speeds so keep that in mind.

I’ll add this to the end of my original post as well.
 
2000UZJ said:
@2001LC - My '06 has some very random, and at times, "darty" steering. I have replaced pretty much everything except this Intermediate Shaft and the steering rack. New UCA/LCA, TRE's (inner and outer), and alignment. Do you think this shaft could be a potential source of rouge steering? My 100 seems to randomly change directions 1-3* on the highway, just enough to feel like something is not 100%.

I've checked literally everything. 305K on the ODO.
Click to expand...
LC or LX. lifted, tires. All good idea, to list.

Typically, HWY wondering (tires changing direction). Is due to bad steering rack mounting bushing.
But we first must make sure, all as should be:
  • No play in wheel bearings
  • No play In TRE inner or out.
  • No wheel hub run out. Note: I find wheel hubs beat on. Bad enough, wheel don't mount flush. In time lugs loosen, as wheel get eaten into.
  • No play in ball joints.
  • No play in control arm bushings.
  • Alignment correct. Note: I find 2.8* to 3* caster with at least 3/4" rake, good. Lifted rigs like more caster. But, to much caster, we do track straight (no wonerning). But lane changing is abrupt and unsettling.

We R&R and intermediate shaft and or U-joint up to steering wheel, that have play. But wondering starts at tire, not after rack & pinion. I'll not here: Pinion preload set to light, We get a steering wheel wiggle. That feels like bad u-joints. I've only seen this in aftermarket or junky remains.

Don't beat on wheel hubs. In time lugs loosen, as hub eats into wheel.
IMG_2222.webp
 
Update on this: My mechanic said the part was wrong and too long (45203-60110). Dealer says it’s correct

45203-60110 is too long at over 16 inches and the correct part that’s in my truck now is 15 7/8 inches.

Idk what else to do lol. Not something I wanna ride out until it breaks either.
 
LC Lurker said:
Edit (3/23/2026): My mechanic said part was wrong and too long (45203-60110). Dealer says it’s correct

My LX has been having some trouble with stiff steering past 10 & 2 o’clock and struggles to return to center.

I got a new intermediate shaft and figured I could swap it out, but there’s no way to access the bolt(s) on the lower end where the u-joint connects.

I tried from the side with the tire and wheel liner off. I also tried from underneath with the front skid plate removed. The u-joint seems tightly located between the engine and the frame rail.

Am I missing something? Does the engine need to be removed to replace this?
Click to expand...
Yes. A machicanic that knows what he's doing!
That is correct P/N.
LC Lurker said:
Edit: As I’m looking at this, I can maybe see where I could access the u-joint by removing the CV boot (see last pic)…but please let me know if anyone else has an easier method.

Pic from the front end, underneath the truckView attachment 4090500

Pic from top, near the wheel liner, looking down at the u-joint

View attachment 4090501

Pic 3, near cv
View attachment 4090504

Edit for 2/24/2026:

For anyone looking into their issue(s) on this post, I have had some wandering on the highway, but not much.

My main issue was the stiffening when turning the wheel left or right AND not returning to center - it would literally keep the truck going the direction I turned unless I intervened. And yes, it was still stiff and required extra work to force it back to center.

I didn’t fix my intermediate shaft yet but I did spray some silicone lube on it for now (no idea if that’s recommended btw). The steering smoothness and returning to center is back to normal, but this is just a temporary solution. There still seemed to be at least a little bit of my wandering at highway speeds so keep that in mind.
Click to expand...

LC Lurker said:
Update on this: My mechanic said the part was wrong and too long (45203-60110). Dealer says it’s correct

45203-60110 is too long at over 16 inches and the correct part that’s in my truck now is 15 7/8 inches.

Idk what else to do lol. Not something I wanna ride out until it breaks either.
Click to expand...
Dealer right!
 
2001LC said:
Yes. A machicanic that knows what he's doing!
That is correct P/N.



Dealer right!
Click to expand...
Any reason the part could be different lengths though? Seems like a hard thing to get wrong?
 
Wear and or impact, shorten.
I've installed same new on and 03LX, in last 12 months.
 
2001LC said:
Wear and or impact, shorten.
I've installed same new on and 03LX, in last 12 months.
Click to expand...
What would you recommend for getting a new, original length shaft in? Can you safely collapse it enough to fit in?

Should something be loosened above the lower shaft to allow things to shift back up?

Note: not sure if any of that is making sense. I’m just assuming if the old shaft collapsed some then the components above it must have shifted down since a new part doesn’t fit now.
 
  • Do not, try to collapse new #2 intermediate shaft.
  • Do not turn steering wheel or move wheels (moving rack & pinion), any more than needed while intermediate shaft disconnected. Turning steering wheel wind-up and unwinds clock spring. Turn to far, can tighten clock spring to much, resulting in breaking it.
  • Note: Steering wheel will be centered, later. Thru tech stream, in VGRS screen.
  • Nice touch, while in there. Replace fire wall seal/boot, if rip/hole found in it. This seal, should have been replaced, during snap ring recall. But I find they're not.
  1. Remove all 3 bolts, from clamps. One bolt at #2's pinion input shaft end, and two at fire wall clamp (connects #1 & #2).
  2. Optionable: Install new firewall seal.
  3. Pre, line-up bolt notches, in upper end #2 shaft splines with #1 shaft end splines (comes out fire wall).
  4. Install #2 lower end onto pinon input shaft. Keeping notches, line-up best you can.
  5. Place thrust stopper onto #1 shaft.
  6. IIRC. It doesn't matter if one starts with clamp slipped on #1 or #2 splines. Play with it, finding which gives you more wiggle room.
  7. #2 shaft is lying down (gravity) as is #1 shaft. Bring #2 up to meet #1, from below. While #1 one shaft at lower point (gravity), coming out fire wall seal. Note: #1 shaft is VGRS actuator. It is moves up down or sideways as does #2 shaft. Neither are connect to anything that keeps them centered. Except at far ends of each. That being, #2 shaft connect to pinion input. #1 shaft connect to steering bracket ASSY up under dash. Point being. We've a lot of play, to connect #2 to #1, at fire wall.
  8. Make very sure all securing bolts (3) fit into there respective notches (3). Some guys wrongly force these bolts in at any point, miss notch. See witness marks below, of missing notch.
  9. Torque bolts to 25ft-lbf.
  10. Replace under shielding and fender well mud guards.
  11. Mount tire/wheel.
  12. Lower vehicle to ground.
  13. Center steering wheel, using Tech Stream, VGRS.

Steering Inter #2 & seal fire wall (6).webp



Steering Inter #2 & seal fire wall (7).webp



Steering Inter #2 & seal fire wall (8).webp


IMG_3012.webp

Alignment paint marks.webp
5-25-20 (15).webp


IMG_3457.webp
 
2001LC said:
  • Do not, try to collapse new #2 intermediate shaft.
  • Do not turn steering wheel or move wheels (moving rack & pinion), any more than needed while intermediate shaft disconnected. Turning steering wheel wind-up and unwinds clock spring. Turn to far, can tighten clock spring to much, resulting in breaking it.
  • Note: Steering wheel will be centered, later. Thru tech stream, in VGRS screen.
  • Nice touch, while in there. Replace fire wall seal/boot, if rip/hole found in it. This seal, should have been replaced, during snap ring recall. But I find they're not.
  1. Remove all 3 bolts, from clamps. One bolt at #2's pinion input shaft end, and two at fire wall clamp (connects #1 & #2).
  2. Optionable: Install new firewall seal.
  3. Pre, line-up bolt notches, in upper end #2 shaft splines with #1 shaft end splines (comes out fire wall).
  4. Install #2 lower end onto pinon input shaft. Keeping notches, line-up best you can.
  5. Place thrust stopper onto #1 shaft.
  6. IIRC. It doesn't matter if one starts with clamp slipped on #1 or #2 splines. Play with it, finding which gives you more wiggle room.
  7. #2 shaft is lying down (gravity) as is #1 shaft. Bring #2 up to meet #1, from below. While #1 one shaft at lower point (gravity), coming out fire wall seal. Note: #1 shaft is VGRS actuator. It is moves up down or sideways as does #2 shaft. Neither are connect to anything that keeps them centered. Except at far ends of each. That being, #2 shaft connect to pinion input. #1 shaft connect to steering bracket ASSY up under dash. Point being. We've a lot of play, to connect #2 to #1, at fire wall.
  8. Make very sure all securing bolts (3) fit into there respective notches (3). Some guys wrongly force these bolts in at any point, miss notch. See witness marks below, of missing notch.
  9. Torque bolts to 25ft-lbf.
  10. Replace under shielding and fender well mud guards.
  11. Mount tire/wheel.
  12. Lower vehicle to ground.
  13. Center steering wheel, using Tech Stream, VGRS.

View attachment 4108541


View attachment 4108542


View attachment 4108543

View attachment 4108544
View attachment 4108546View attachment 4108551

View attachment 4108550
Click to expand...
Thank you! This is really helpful
 
Wow, I wasn’t expecting this much of a difference. Even the smooth sections on the left side don’t line up.

Is this normal? @2001LC

IMG_6120.webp


Edit: Dealer is ordering a couple parts to compare. I guess we’ll see for sure soon
 
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