Help identifying my Distributor

[tltaylor22]

I'm eye balls deep into my 1976 fj40 rebuild and went to buy a cap rotor and internals for my distributor but the little tag is worn off. I have a few kicking around but I'm pretty sure this one with the screw cap was on my 76 when I pulled it all apart back in 2003. My 40 is quite the Frankenstein of parts so I never know what was original. What year do you guys think this came from and should I be running it instead of a smaller, clip on cap style?

 

[tltaylor22]

Any thoughts? I also have a snap on cap style 19100-61020 and a 19100-6061. I think the scree on cap one looks like a 1980's fj60 ?

 

[tltaylor22]

19100-60061

 

[Mark W]

1978 fully electronic unit. Yes, if you have the ignitor unit for it also, this is what you want to use. Electronic (no points) waterproof and ventilated.

Mark...

 

[tltaylor22]

1978 fully electronic unit. Yes, if you have the ignitor unit for it also, this is what you want to use. Electronic (no points) waterproof and ventilated.

Mark...

Thanks Mark. The 1978 is the large screw on cap version, right? I've got 3 different igniters in my stash. Hopefully I have the right one

 

[Mark W]

Thanks Mark. The 1978 is the large screw on cap version, right? I've got 3 different igniters in my stash. Hopefully I have the right one

Generally, when people refer to the "large cap" electronic dist, they are talking about the '80 and later unit that was found in the '60s here in NA. The '78 and '79 dist was larger than the earlier points style distributors, but it was smaller than the later ones.

The larger, later model ones are a bit better and easier to find, but the '79-'79 fits without requiring the dished lifter cover like the larger ones did.

Mark...

 

[tltaylor22]

There's what I have for igniters.

 

[65swb45]

Before you go through all the trouble of cleaning and installing, check the module in the dizzy to make sure it works. It is a 45 year old part, and they do fail. Replacements are NLA.

Personally, I would rather use either of your earlier dizzies with a BRAND NEW aftermarket electronic ignition conversion because…it’s new. And because it won’t require using a 45 year old ignitor to run it either.

 

[Mark W]

Before you go through all the trouble of cleaning and installing, check the module in the dizzy to make sure it works. It is a 45 year old part, and they do fail. Replacements are NLA.

Personally, I would rather use either of your earlier dizzies with a BRAND NEW aftermarket electronic ignition conversion because…it’s new. And because it won’t require using a 45 year old ignitor to run it either.

FWIW... and that is gonna depend on how the rig is used... But in my world, the waterproofing and venting of the Toyota electronic distributor is a big plus for it. Other people and other places likely a lot less important.

Mark...

 

[tltaylor22]

Awesome advise guys.

 

[tltaylor22]

Mark, I've been dreaming of your world since the late 90's. Hopefully I'll be up in Wasilla at least once while on my way out to Illiumna. Someday I'll do it with a cruiser instead of Dleta airlines and a Beaver.

 

[tltaylor22]

Mark, you've been in this 40 while at cruise Moab back in the early days. I cant remember if it was Metal Masher or some other trail. It'll be utah rock crawling and desert running until I get the gumption to drive to Alaska.

 

[tltaylor22]

1978 fully electronic unit. Yes, if you have the ignitor unit for it also, this is what you want to use. Electronic (no points) waterproof and ventilated.

Mark...

@Mark W Is this the right ignitor for that 78 fully electronic distributor? I've got everything hooked up and no spark. The coil seems to test good. I get a nice spark when I put 12v to the positive side of the coil and momentarily ground the negative. But I get nothing on the main wire I pulled off the distributo cap and held to ground when the ignitor is hooked up. I've got a different silver ignitor to play with but it has a bunch more wires coming out of it.

 

[tltaylor22]

@Mark W Is this the right ignitor for that 78 fully electronic distributor? I've got everything hooked up and no spark. The coil seems to test good. I get a nice spark when I put 12v to the positive side of the coil and momentarily ground the negative. But I get nothing on the main wire I pulled off the distributo cap and held to ground when the ignitor is hooked up. I've got a different silver ignitor to play with but it has a bunch more wires coming out of it.

@Mark W Is this the right ignitor for that 78 fully electronic distributor? I've got everything hooked up and no spark. The coil seems to test good. I get a nice spark when I put 12v to the positive side of the coil and momentarily ground the negative. But I get nothing on the main wire I pulled off the distributo cap and held to ground when the ignitor is hooked up. I've got a different silver ignitor to play with but it has a bunch more wires coming out of it.

View attachment 3641845

Here's the other silver ignitor

 

[tltaylor22]

I've searched a bit. Anyone have a list of compatible toyota Igniters for a 78 full electronic distributor? Aftermarket? What other critical parts would I be missing to make this work. Am I going down the right road in thinking that my igniter is bad? I followed step #1 and #2 (both passed)from the following but couldn't test #3 due to not having points. Any other way to test it?

The way to test it systematically is:
1. Check if the coil can make a spark. Disconnect the wires at the coil, run a wire from battery + to coil +, momentarily ground the - and check for spark. If you get a spark then:
2: Check if the ignition switch circuit works: Reconnect the wire from the ignition (ballast resistor), turn key on, momentarily ground the - side of coil and check for spark. If you have a spark, then check ignitor. If no spark, check wire connections and ballast resistor.
3: Check ignitor: reinstall wire from ignitor to the - side of the coil now everything should be connected back to stock condition. Turn the engine until points are open, turn on key and momentarily short between the points and check for spark. If you have a spark, then check point gap, clean points. If no spark, remove ignitor wire at - side of coil and connect - side of coil directly to the points wire coming from the distributor. Check for spark when turning over or see if it starts/runs.

 

[Mark W]

Not back at the shop yet after the weekend. Without checking numbers I am 99% confident that the first ignitor you showed is the correct one for the '79-'79 dist. You can also use the early mini-truck 22R ignitor (the one in the kinda box-like frame... say) if you splice in the correct connector.

Mark...

 

[tltaylor22]

Good news. The issue keeping me from getting spark was not the igniter. It was the resistor. I pulled one off another coil that was most likely a 1969 and it measured 1.8 ohms instead of the 1.5 ohms the 1978 should have. Installed and she started right up. She's not idling at all but I'll work on that. The .ai. concern I had was that the coil/igniter are getting super hot. My son left the key om while I was fiddling with the carb and they just got hotter. Is that normal?

 

[Downey]

I have to go along with Mark Algazy's (65SWB45) comment in post #8 above. Your 19100-60061 is a pre-smog dizzy (has vacuum advance), and you can install a Pertronix electronic unit into it, then have NEW dizzy with vacuum advance.

 

[4Cruisers]

I've searched a bit. Anyone have a list of compatible toyota Igniters for a 78 full electronic distributor? Aftermarket?

I've been using and testing early '80s Tercel igniters in my '76 FJ40 with FJ60 distributor. They work well. I've also sold several to others here on MUD. I bought new aftermarket Tercel igniters for my '71 and '76 FJ40s.

 

[tltaylor22]

I've been using and testing early '80s Tercel igniters in my '76 FJ40 with FJ60 distributor. They work well. I've also sold several to others here on MUD. I bought new aftermarket Tercel igniters for my '71 and '76 FJ40s.

Good to know!