Heater Valve

Joined
May 24, 2015
Messages
51
After looking into my heater valve situation, it appears at some point my '85 truck had a 4runner valve installed. It's cobbled together with some extra hoses and T's to bypass the would of been 4runner rear heat.

Anyways, the valve is so stiff to operate it causes binding in my hot-cold lever in the cab, so I've just left it on hot. I took it off to try and free it up and what not but I reckon the thing is just old and stiff. When I had it off, in the closed position it still let my lung air pressure through, although restricted. Is this restricted flow in closed position by design?

Given they're expensive to replace, I thought of maybe rigging up a simple in-line T-handle ball valve from the hardware store and operate it manually twice a year during the seasons I actually need heated air. The other option would be rigging up 2 valves...1 that closes the heater core and 1 that would open a bypass between the in/out of the heater core.

Aside from fear and common sense, is there anything stopping me from binning the valve and installing a standard ball valve? If flow is 100% restricted through the heater core, is that going to create an issue on the other end where it is supposed to go back into the intake?

Ultimately the hoses on the current set up are old and starting to crack. They're going to let go sooner than later so as preventative maintenance I want to clean up the T and any un necessary connections.

Option 1: Bin the valve all together and have the heater core free flow all day and just have the in cab lever control the flapper door to open/close heater core air flow passage.
Option 2: Replace the valve with a T-handle ball valve, restricting flow to the heater core by 100% and just have the in cab lever control the flapper door...
Option 3: Replace the valve with a T-handle ball valve that closes the heater core passage, and install 1 more valve and a T to allow the system to work as if the heater core was bypassed.
 
Last edited:

msahr

 
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2004
Messages
2,910
Location
Cool Comfy AZ
Yeah they do get stiff mine quit working and I haven't cared to fix it. Hardly needed in Arizona. Amazon has the plastic one for $91... seems like the way to go by the time you reinvent the wheel. New hoses and plug and play.
 
Joined
May 24, 2015
Messages
51
150 canadian after tax on my end. Before I spent that kind of scratch, I'd be content with a straight thru heater core 100% hot all the time. My $10 or $20 re invent the wheel ball valve idea would simply allow the truck to have some sort of selectable flow into the heater core. Just trying to figure out how the wheel was designed in the first place so I can recreate it for 1/7th or 1/15th the price.
 

pappy

photosynthesizing
Moderator
 
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
10,174
Location
Too far north. Too far east.
Still a lot of money, but I run one of these in my FJ40.


As you mentioned, the plastic valve used on newer trucks (1990-1995) will work. It's a little bubba, but it works.

After looking into my heater valve situation, it appears at some point my '85 truck had a 4runner valve installed. It's cobbled together with some extra hoses and T's to bypass the would of been 4runner rear heat.
On the trucks, and 4Runners without rear hear (me), instead of a tee in the heater line there is a brass coupling. I often wondered why Toyota made that hose 2 pieces, but once seeing a rear heat truck, I got it.
 

msahr

 
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2004
Messages
2,910
Location
Cool Comfy AZ
Still a lot of money, but I run one of these in my FJ40.


As you mentioned, the plastic valve used on newer trucks (1990-1995) will work. It's a little bubba, but it works.



On the trucks, and 4Runners without rear hear (me), instead of a tee in the heater line there is a brass coupling. I often wondered why Toyota made that hose 2 pieces, but once seeing a rear heat truck, I got it.
I don't like the plastic ones, either and I'm pretty sure that's why mine seized up. The brass heater valves are nice.

As for the heater core open all the time deal, yes I get it. I don't know why it wouldn't work.
 

pappy

photosynthesizing
Moderator
 
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
10,174
Location
Too far north. Too far east.
As for the heater core open all the time deal, yes I get it. I don't know why it wouldn't work.
Back in the olden days ... that is the way you turned on the heat in the FJ40's. There was a valve off the cylinder head you turned to get heat. There were no dash controls, except the fan.
 
Top Bottom