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Needed to add a transcooler somewhere. I wanted it to get good air flow, but not add heat soak to my intercooler. I already have the bumper all cut up, so why not?

It's pretty small, but it should really get a lot of air at highway speeds.

Still need to clean the hole up a bit more. Maybe add a grille?
 
I finished my bumper, I plan to pull it off at least one more time in the future to make some tweaks and get a proper coat of paint on it, but it will work for now and I think it's a big improvement over stock, for what I wanted it to be. The trans cooler is pretty gimmicky, but better than nothing. I will be doing something different in the future, I am just not sure what.

If anyone else is planning on extensive modification to a bumper, I would recommend that you brace the sleeves that fit over your frame-rails before you do your final welding. Mine shrunk and wouldn't fit back on the cruiser. we had to use the hi-lift to pry it open enough to get it mounted again!

I also purchase a synthetic line and a bling bling factor55 hook for my Aisin winch. Because I am tax-return rich baby.
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While I had the welder setup, I decided to finish up my hi-lift mount. I had been dragging my feet and changing my mind on this for almost a year, but I finally committed to a idea and I am really happy with the results.
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I added a angle to suport the bottom, and used the 4x4 labs hardware welded to the back of the spare carrier to secure it all in place.

Other items addressed at this time:
Wire in ARB compressor and switch for it.
Delete ACSD from injection pump
Oil change and pre-trip inspection
 
Nice idea on the oiloicooler cooler in the bumper wing.

Thanks, I worry that it's not nearly big enough to make a dent in the trans temps, but it is something for now. If I add a bigger trans cooler somewhere, I might convert this to a engine oil cooler.
 
Moab is amazing
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So amazing.
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After spending probably 20 hours tailoring my ARB bumper around my Aisin winch, I killed the winch trying to winch up the last little bit of Potato Salad Hill. I am pretty bummed. I should have used a snatch-block.
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I am winch shopping, Doesn't look like there is any winch on the market that is designed to spool from the top, like the Aisin did. So all of my hard work building a mount for it down low is wasted. I am going to have to rework the bumper again for a bottom spool winch.

I am trying to get one of these DWH 12000 HD shipped to the states. 9hp motor, over twice the line speed of comparable warn offerings.
 
Sucks that you fried your winch, any idea what broke? The good news is your winch controller and storage bag will likely get you half way to funding a new winch, lol!
 
Sucks that you fried your winch, any idea what broke? The good news is your winch controller and storage bag will likely get you half way to funding a new winch, lol!

I haven't done an autopsy yet, but it's turning really slow and grinding. Anyone who has one of these winches should avoid stalling it, they weren't built for it
 
Valve body update. Wholesale Automatics contacted me a couple days ago to let me know that the one 1HDT with cruise control valve body core that they had wasn't in rebuild-able condition.

I would like to thank whichever one of you jerks sent them back the bad valve body. :flipoff2:

So here is my valve body, all wrapped up in a Styrofoam cooler I had laying around. I sent it this morning, $157 after taxes with $1000 of insurance.

I figure this is a good time to pull my T-case, since the cruiser is dead in the driveway for a couple of weeks. I ordered a part time kit from Cruiser Outfitters, I'll get it installed with the 3:1 gears I've had sitting in my garage for 2 years.

I am going to add a trans temp sensor somewhere, I was thinking about welding a bung into the pan. Any thoughts?





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Wholesale Automatics makes a union drilled out for the sensor, and includes the sender they usually only include it with their trans temp gauge kits, but maybe you can convince them to ship you one with your valve body? It's really the best (takes it's reading when the fluid is at its hottest), and cleanest solution for this out there.
 
Wholesale Automatics makes a union drilled out for the sensor, and includes the sender they usually only include it with their trans temp gauge kits, but maybe you can convince them to ship you one with your valve body? It's really the best (takes it's reading when the fluid is at its hottest), and cleanest solution for this out there.

I've got a gauge and sender on hand. I will contact them, maybe they'll throw the union in for free, for the inconvenience.
 
Had a big day today. After about 6 weeks of the beast being stranded in the driveway, I finally got her moving by her own power again!

Knowing that my rig was going to be down for weeks while my valve-body flew around the globe, I decided to tackle a couple of other upgrades that I have had planned. It's time to build the T-case. I already had some Marlin crawler 3.1:1 gears sitting on a shelf so I called up cruiser outfitters and got the part time kit on the way. I opted to pull the entire case, since my Trans output seal had been leaking for months.


The case came out without drama, but I had 2 bolts break when splitting the case apart. One was a easy extraction, the other......
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This was taken after I had drilled the hole for a extractor. I filled the hole with PB blaster, and heat cycled the case and bolt about a dozen times with a propane torch, just trying to get anything to move. nothing worked, and I broke off a extractor in the bolt. AT this point I just attcked it with a drill, and a dremel and anything else I had on hand to eat the bolt away.
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Luckily, under that ugly gaping hole is about 1 inch of good threads, so I just left it alone at this point.
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That's the biggest piece of the bolt that came out.

Unfortunately, this was barely the beginning of my T-case woes.
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According to every video, and picture I could find, there is supposed to be a snap ring here. I guess it's not too important, since mine has been running for almost 30 years without it. I decided it'd be a good idea to get one ordered up just to be safe.

I paid a local Transmission shop $100 to do the press work, saved me a lot of time and frustration.

During reassembly, the input shaft seal inverted, and ripped. One more week down.....actually make that 2 weeks because partsouq fxxxed up the order.

Finally got it back together, and added a 1/4' vacuum T, so I can run the rear diff breather up and combine it with the T-case breather line.

On to the Valve body.

I received my valve body from wholesale automatics, and it had been poorly packaged, and was damaged in shipping.
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Those two little pipes stabbed through the box, and were crushed by the weight of the VB. I was able to get the P/N and order them locally, but some idiot only ordered one, so I had to wait another full week to get the second one.
 
Here is the T-case, ready to go back in.
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While I was waiting on parts, I decided to knock another mod off the list. Might as well just keep taking more things apart right?

With the help of a friend, we pulled the control arms had OE bushings pressed in while we drilled the brackets for Wits End castor correction plates.
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Drilling these holes is a bit of a chore, since you need a 90 degree drill for the bracket closest to the Diff. These holes were close enough to work, I ran a 1 inch weld on each plate once we had them all together and tight. Using a angle finder, I think these plates gave me -3 degrees of castor compared to the offset bushings, I need to get on the highway for some extended testing.

I managed to get everything back together today, and took if for a test drive. The Valve-body feels great, it's shifting smooth, and the 3rd gear lockup almost feels like having another gear when it kicks in at 40mph.

Most importantly, I can now pull the mountain passes in 3rd, without cooking my trans!

It was a good day :cheers:
 
Busy couple of weeks! I got an Alu-Cab, then did a 1100 mile trip in western Colorado, spent 2 nights in Ouray, then 3 nights in Grand Mesa, it was a great trip.

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I managed to get everything back together today, and took if for a test drive. The Valve-body feels great, it's shifting smooth, and the 3rd gear lockup almost feels like having another gear when it kicks in at 40mph.

Most importantly, I can now pull the mountain passes in 3rd, without cooking my trans!

Didn’t know the trans in the early HDJ had lockup in 3rd. Thought it was just 4th?
 
Didn’t know the trans in the early HDJ had lockup in 3rd. Thought it was just 4th?

He got the Wholesale Automatics valve body for the 3rd gear lockup. Great mod!
 
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