HB wobble + minor timing cover seep - 1FZ-FE. How worried?

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xeuxaz

xeuxaz

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 8, 2022
Threads
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756
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Hey all,

Noticed a minor but visible wobble in the crank pulley at idle on my 97 LX450, plus a minor oil leak that looks like it's coming from the timing cover (not the pulley face itself). Started catching it as the AZ heat has ramped up over the past few weeks, so the underhood temps may be making it more obvious. Looking for some experienced eyes to weigh in on severity before I commit to the parts order.

Truck: 1997 LX450, 325k on the bottom end. Original HB as far as I know.

What I'm seeing:
- Minor but visible wobble at idle
- Smooths out as RPM climbs
- Minor oil weep that looks like it's coming from the timing cover area, not the front of the pulley. Probably the front crank seal but I haven't pulled anything to confirm
- No groans, squeals, or cold-start noises
- Belts tracking fine

Video:

Did the homework, read the PSA threads and the 'harmonic balancer fail?' thread, so I know where this ends up eventually. I'll do the paint-pen test and re-verify crank bolt torque this weekend regardless.

Mostly curious:
- Does this match what yours looked like at the early stage?
- Anyone in a hot climate notice theirs get visibly worse in summer? Wondering if the heat is actually accelerating it or just making me look more often
- Given the oil leak, is the rubber probably already partly contaminated and accelerating?
- Anything in the video that screams 'park it now' vs 'plan the job over the next month or two'?
- Any known best prices for the part?

Just want to calibrate against people who've actually seen this go down before. Also not looking forward to forking over $500 for an OEM pulley, so a little hopium that I have time to plan is welcome. Lol. Thanks in advance.
 
You can buy a new one on ebay for usually under $300 shipped to your door. Just look for solid reviews and includes import/duty fees in price.
Doesn’t look terrible but if it was me I would change soon, order your associated seals and gasket to seal up the front. consider it routine maintenance. You’re lucky you caught it before a failure.
 
Seems like a full kit “just in case” would be:
  • 13470-66030 — Crank pulley / harmonic balancer — Qty 1
  • 90105-16031 — Crank pulley bolt — Qty 1
  • 95161-30516 — Woodruff key — Qty 1
  • 90311-52022 — Front crankshaft oil seal — Qty 1
 
xeuxaz said:
Crazy to see such deltas in pricing.

cruiserteq.com

1FZ-FE Crankshaft Pulley - Fits FZJ7x/8x/LX450 Applications (BELT66030)

1FZ-FE Crankshaft Pulley - Fits FZJ7x/8x/LX450 Applications (BELT66030)
cruiserteq.com cruiserteq.com

Why is this so pricey @cruiseroutfit
Click to expand...

I can't speak with certainty, I'm not at the shop and wont be for another week or so. We stock 8500+ part numbers so there are many factors at play and a wide array of places we source those. US retail from Toyota on that is $739.35 fwiw. Ping our team and they can see if it's a pricing error. Info@cruiseroutfitters.com
 
xeuxaz said:
Crazy to see such deltas in pricing.

cruiserteq.com

1FZ-FE Crankshaft Pulley - Fits FZJ7x/8x/LX450 Applications (BELT66030)

1FZ-FE Crankshaft Pulley - Fits FZJ7x/8x/LX450 Applications (BELT66030)
cruiserteq.com cruiserteq.com

Why is this so pricey @cruiseroutfit
Click to expand...
Not affiliated with cruiser outfitters but we as 80’s owners are a niche market and they stock a part that once in a vehicles life will likely get replaced unless oil soaked. That part may collect dust they need a return on investment. Even if they buy multiple units from Japan at far less than dealerships, it takes time and effort to procure, stock and add to the website all for a part they likely sell once in a blue moon. It’s just supply and demand baby 🥳
 
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MissahPapaJ said:
Not affiliated with cruiser outfitters but we as 80’s owners are a niche market and they stock a part that once in a vehicles life will likely get replaced unless oil soaked. That part may collect dust they need a return on investment. Even if they buy multiple units from Japan at far less than dealerships, it takes time and effort to procure, stock and add to the website all for a part they likely sell once in a blue moon. It’s just supply and demand baby 🥳
Click to expand...
Yeah, and I try to give them as much business as I can. However, it's available from my local Lexus dealer for $480~. (Bell Lexus)
 
xeuxaz said:
Yeah, and I try to give them as much business as I can. However, it's available from my local Lexus dealer for $480~. (Bell Lexus)
Click to expand...
For sure I’ll hunt for deals where I can as well. For some reason my three local-ish dealers aren’t usually too far off of cruiser outfitters and I get the 20% shop discount and no tax. And usually the parts guys pout when I say I need parts for a 96 LC80. I constantly get wrong or more/less than I ask for when I order things from the dealer, so the ease of searching for vehicle specific parts at Cruiser Outfitters and a knowledgable friendly staff is a tax I’m usually willing to spend a couple of extra penny’s on. But your completely right if we’re talking about saving a hundo it’s worth hunting for sure.
 
IMG_3819.webp

Also if you really want to save and don’t mind waiting and paying some serious shipping you can get one for around 300$ depending on how much you get boned on tariffs and shipping.
 
If the rubber has failed, nothing you do now is going to slow that down.

If you're seeing signs of a wobble, swap it out ASAP.

It's a critical part with 30 year old rubber holding it together, don't delay swapping it.

Now would also be a good time to change the oil pump cover seal. It's a common leak in the timing case area, and you'll have 95% of the stuff out of the way to do the balancer. Read up on how to remove the oil pump cover screws without stripping them.
 
^^^This^^^

@xeuxaz :

Safest is to not drive it at all as there's the risk the HB could come apart (outer ring flies off) which would likely take out your radiator, PS lines, etc.

No real need for a new crank pulley bolt unless your's is damaged or significantly corroded.
The original woodruff key can be reused but having a spare isn't a bad idea in case you lose the original.

As mentioned above you'll need the oil pump cover O-ring ("gasket"), that is the main cause of an oil leak from around/behind the harmonic balancer, not the front crank seal but always replace both at the same time.

Good idea IMO to order new screws for the oil pump cover, a few often get damaged when you remove them. Some people replace the originals with screws having a different head ie torx or hex but which are sometimes slightly shorter than the original screws. IME the OEM screws work well (read the long thread Oil Pump Cover leak).

Shop around for the Harmonic Balancer, here's another source (add shipping and Tariff but still significantly less than OEM pricing)




On top of all that there's another dozen small things you can take care of while the HB is out of the way (Alternator brushes or replace unit, new idler pulley, AC tensioner pulley, Water pump, new belts of course, clean, prime, paint any rust trying to start in exposed areas ie under the battery box, replace radiator hoses, ----)


Off-topic tip: I use a half/small drop of LOW STRENGTH (Purple) 222 or equivalant thread locker before installing the new oil pump cover screws (applied in the cleaned blind holes). Some people say that's crazy but the Low Strength is designed for small fasteners like those screws, they probably should have named it "Small Fastener Thread Locker/Sealer". IMO it provides some grip but also seals the threads between the steel screw and the aluminum timing cover. Just let the finished oil pump cover gasket job sit 24 hours for the thread locker to cure while you're doing all the other while-you're-in-there jobs before starting the engine.
 
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@Kernal @mudgudgeon appreciate the detailed write-ups, both helped me dial in the order. The "don't delay, 30 year old rubber, oil pump cover while you're in there" framing made the call easy. The 80 is parked until parts are in.

Pulled the trigger on the following:
  • 13470-66030 HB / Crank pulley
  • 90311-52022 front crank seal (doing both at the same time per Kernal)
  • 95161-30516 Woodruff key x1 as a spare
  • 15188-66020 oil pump cover O-ring
  • 15183-66020 OEM JIS screws x7 (going OEM per Kernal's note, picking up a #3 JIS bit)
  • 90099-14118 O-ring and 90430-27001 oil level sensor gasket while I'm in there
  • 16100-69325 Aisin water pump
  • 90916-03117 thermostat + 16346-66020 gasket
  • 08826-00080 FIPG x2 (just in case)
  • 90916-02353-83 alternator/fan belt matched pair and 99332-10910-83 A/C belt
  • 16603-66010 alternator idler pulley and 88440-26090 A/C idler pulley
  • A couple of gallons of Toyota red coolant
  • Land tank alternator upgrade kit - why not if I'm taking it all apart
Skipping a new crank bolt per Kernal's note, and skipping radiator hoses since I did all of those plus the PHH and bypass recently. The purple 222 thread locker tip on the oil pump screws is a great call. Thanks for all the eye balls/help.

Now I just have to find time to take it all apart, haha.
 
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Kernal said:
IME the OEM screws work well
Click to expand...
Agreed. small hex screws strip super easy IME, not an awesome substitute to be dealing with in the future.

Use the correct #3 JIS bit and a cordless impact driver to crack them loose. Lots of downward pressure with the impact driver and pew pew pew on the trigger, not brrrrrrrrrrt.

If you don't have a #3 JIS bit, you can grind 1/16 of the tip of a #2 Philips but for a good substitue.
 
All the above; what I've done is take a good used or new OEM screw to the hardware store and test fit a few different bits until I find one that fits snugly, no wobble, which may say something like ACR (anti-cam-out) and/or has slightly fatter "paddle" (bowed outward) blades with tiny ridges. Ditto; press inward hard.

May help to first put the bit into the old screw heads (after cleaning out the slots) then tap tap tap lightly before using the impact/drill driver.
If you don't have a compact impact driver I've used a 3/8" drive ratcheting long handle wrench with a 1/4" socket and a short bit, press inward firmly and give
the ratchet handle a quick jerk. Either way, a couple main points as mentioned by mudgudgean is a snug fitting bit and inward pressure.

One thing about the Engine Coolant/Antifreeze: the later model FZJ80 and LX450's have aluminum radiator cores but still have some brass (and soldered) components ie: some pipes and the heater cores are brass, so the Toyota RED Coolant (00272-1LLAC -01) which was the original fill type is the better choice IMO/IME . Both Red and Pink are HOAT but different chemistry.
 
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mudgudgeon said:
If the rubber has failed, nothing you do now is going to slow that down.

If you're seeing signs of a wobble, swap it out ASAP.

It's a critical part with 30 year old rubber holding it together, don't delay swapping it.

Now would also be a good time to change the oil pump cover seal. It's a common leak in the timing case area, and you'll have 95% of the stuff out of the way to do the balancer. Read up on how to remove the oil pump cover screws without stripping them.
Click to expand...
I’ve never stripped one out on either a 1FZ or a 3RZ ( same Phillips style heads for the oil pump ) all you need is the P3 JIS 3/8 drive socket - insert socket into clean of grease/engine oil or general debris, insert P3 JIS socket into hardware spray just the perimeter of the head of the hardware. Tap socket into the fastener several times with small hammer ( not too hard just enough to shock it ). Don’t attempt to loosen quite yet. repeat the process till you reach the first one again, replete the tapping of the socket method aforementioned a couple of times and slap that b***h with a compact impact gun of your choosing depending if you remove the radiator or not ( I would ). I’ve never stripped one out and I’ve worked on some rusty and oxidized shizz.
This info wasn’t exactly intended for you but for anyone new to 1FZ or 3RZ oil pump seals, but for the love of god if you use a SAE PH3 your gonna have a bad time.
 
mudgudgeon said:
Agreed. small hex screws strip super easy IME, not an awesome substitute to be dealing with in the future.

Use the correct #3 JIS bit and a cordless impact driver to crack them loose. Lots of downward pressure with the impact driver and pew pew pew on the trigger, not brrrrrrrrrrt.

If you don't have a #3 JIS bit, you can grind 1/16 of the tip of a #2 Philips but for a good substitue.
Click to expand...
I’d be into a T30 alternative for the JIS P3 hardware but I’ve yet to see one. I think if you have the right bit and don’t rush the process you could avoid replacing any hardware unless desired. Hex may be the worst ever, debatable I know, but I suppose that’s just my opinion on that. While we’re on the subject you know what the spec on the JIS P3 hardware? Me and my wife’s cousin did his old 4Runner with a 3RZ ( has the same oil pump cover ) and we couldn’t find reliable specs so I figured 8-10 nm would suffice.
 
Looks like you got the oil pump cover O-ring installed, any trouble with that?

Is that an OEM harmonic balancer?
 
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