My 69 (5 of 68 Man date) works the same way that @Living in the Past has stated. 1 pull bib lights 2 pull headlights no bib lights.
JP
JP
Build Hard Ways - Rigger's 1969 FJ40
- Thread starter Rigger
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #462
It’d be cool to have “always on” bib lights.
@Living in the Past I think I have one of the last of the bibs with the amber bib lights. Mine is a 1969 build, titled as a 1970.
I have to research wire splices. These plastic jacketed crimp splices are the pits.
@Living in the Past I think I have one of the last of the bibs with the amber bib lights. Mine is a 1969 build, titled as a 1970.
I have to research wire splices. These plastic jacketed crimp splices are the pits.
Think 9/69 was the crossover from 69 to 70 model. Mine is a 10/69 and has all the changes for a 70 model. 69 model had many changes during the year. Not sure when the turn signal changed but most have the round metal ones. What month is on the A pillar VIN plaque? If 9/69 very possible the last of the 69s. When I bought my 68 back in 74 it had four gray wheels and one black. Never thought anything about at the time. Now being it's a 9/67 production wonder if the rolling chassis had the new color for the 68s gray wheels and at the end of the line when they mounted the spare if it was still the black from the 67 and earlier models.
If you want to have the bib lights on with the headlights you need to add a relay or add the wire for the second element in the bulb for the higher wattage. Then split that wire in at the high beam switch to the wire coming from the headlight switch. If you wire the low wattage element to the high beam switch it will back feed and head lights will be on with the first pull. A simple single pole double throw relay is a easy way to keep the parking light at low wattage all the time. Then with in the high wattage with the turn signal.
If you want to have the bib lights on with the headlights you need to add a relay or add the wire for the second element in the bulb for the higher wattage. Then split that wire in at the high beam switch to the wire coming from the headlight switch. If you wire the low wattage element to the high beam switch it will back feed and head lights will be on with the first pull. A simple single pole double throw relay is a easy way to keep the parking light at low wattage all the time. Then with in the high wattage with the turn signal.
His is a 9-'69 date and has the later running boards. I think it is one of the very first '70s with some leftover '69 attributes.
69 had many changes during the model year. hub caps, tail lights, center arm in the steering, pads on the hood, carburator and jump seats all changed during the year. Believe there are even more. Specter Off Road shows the running board with the rubber changing 10/69. 69 or 70 is a hard call. Do not believe anything on the vehicle or owner's manual that old had a model year. Maybe the window sticker had the model year on it. My guess it was the person who did the paper work at the dealer when it first sold who determined if it was 69 or 70. I'm still going with late 69. 69 carburator, 69 reflectors instead of 70 clearance lights, 69 bib light verses 70 no bib lights. 69 hand throttle verses 70 that didn't have one. Because of the bib lights and clearance lights there were wiring changes for 70. The fact SOR show 9/69 should have rubber padded running boards, diamond plate on the rocker panels probably covering rust and the running boards being black not beige not even sure those are original. Haven't had the rubber pad runner boards on my 68 since the early eighties. Put it on it's side in 75 and damaged the passenger's running board. Found some off a later 40 and installed them.
August is the 8th month making it a 8/69 and would be a 69 model.
The whole 69 model year was weird. A bunch of changes on a lot of different dates. Prior to 3/69 wouldn't have the A pillar tag and the changes would be in the system under the VIN. Maybe that's why they dropped the pre 3/69 out of the system to make it easier for dealers.
If your rear turn signals work check to see if you have twelve volts to ground from one of the wires on the brake switch that operates off the brake pedal. If it does it's either that switch, wire going from the switch to turn signal switch or in the turn signal switch. Check the connections at both ends as well. If you don't have power at the brake switch check the fuse or the wire from the fuse to the switch.
- Thread starter
- #476
In the engine bay, on passenger side fender, are two wire bundles. One has a cluster of wires that are mainly for lights. The other bundle has just two wires. These two wires are kinda heavy gauge. They end near the passenger side headlight. I can’t figure out what they go to. Any ideas?
My WAG guess on the soldered plug: it is a passage that supplies fuel from the bowl directly to the accelerator pump. Never noticed solder on the few Aisan's I've cleaned up. I always thought those plugs were just pressed in. Mark's Offroad would know, maybe he'll swoop in and shed light.
The two big bolts must be access plugs for your main jets. Since your choke plate is on the right, the bottom right bolt must be the primary jet. Up and left is the secondary jet. I'll be curious to hear how she runs
What colors are the two mystery wires?
The two big bolts must be access plugs for your main jets. Since your choke plate is on the right, the bottom right bolt must be the primary jet. Up and left is the secondary jet. I'll be curious to hear how she runs
What colors are the two mystery wires?