H42 Shifting Problems (1 Viewer)

[Steamer]

With all the info in ksrunner’s thread, “H42 Stuck in Gear” I now have the confidence to pull the top plate on mine to look for my two shifting problems.

Problem # 1. Popping out of 1st gear.

It’s been doing it for years now and my solution has been the bungee trick to hold it in first gear. 90 percent of my wheeling is in first so I’ve learned to put up with it. Also, to use Pin_Head’s term, I don’t have that “Snick Snick” sound and feel when I change gears.

Problem # 2. Getting stuck in neutral.

Happened once a few years ago while on the trailer. Couldn’t budge it with engine running or not, and clutch in or out, t-case shifting ok but transmission locked solid in neutral. Pushed it off trailer and then it started shifting fine and did so for about two years. Still using the bungee though.

Then a month ago it got stuck again when I dropped into a hole in the trail. As it stalled, it popped out of gear. (forgot my bungee). Could not get it out of neutral no matter what I tried. When someone towed me out of the hole and about 20 feet it finally released and shifted fine for the rest of the weekend and on two more outings.

Then, this past weekend, on three occasions when I put it in neutral with engine running for a pit stop or beverage retrieval, I went to go again but it was stuck, locked up in neutral. But on these three occasions, with plenty of wiggling, it finally released and went into gear.

And, as luck would have it, my back ordered indent springs & balls came in from SOR yesterday afternoon so today I’ll take the top plate off and see if I can see what’s going on. Before dark yesterday I got the hump removed and the shift cane out. It’s got some wear on the end and figure it’s got to be at least part of the “stuck in neutral” problem.

 

[Steamer]

Just before I start, I see two bolts missing. Strange
EDIT: I later found out (I believe) the missing bolts held in my missing support bracket that I believe was also the guide gate for the T-case shift pattern.

Some rounding off on the corners but I don't know what's normal.

 

[Steamer]

Got balls but no springs. No wonder I got no "Snick Snick"

Got some rust in there also.

 

[ksrunner]

Got balls but no springs. No wonder I got no "Snick Snick"

Got some rust in there also.

View attachment 1874430

Apparently the same person who assembled mine did yours as well! “Hey, I guess they gave me some extra parts.”

 

[ksrunner]

@RAGINGMATT deja vu.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I notice your back-up switch wires are missing ?

i found this switch is ONLY accessible with the Hump Cover Off , so u deal with it now so to speak .......

 

[Steamer]

Apparently the same person who assembled mine did yours as well! “Hey, I guess they gave me some extra parts.”

Yup! Since I know the PO and have seen him in action I’m guessing the top plate was removed to free up a stuck shifter since he or they didn’t know how to get the shifter out. The springs were probably stuck to the top plate when removed and then fell off without being noticed or just plain forgotten. There was also no gasket or sealer.

I just went and got a longer front bolt (M8x1.25x25) as SOR sent all six the same. (M8x1.25x20) I also got a few extra long (M8x1.24x35) and nuts to pull down the plate against the springs.

I’m cleaning up the rust and goo that I can get to but some has fallen in. I’ll change the fluid but thinking about a flush or rinse. Trying to decide what to use.

 

[Steamer]

I notice your back-up switch wires are missing ?

i found this switch is ONLY accessible with the Hump Cover Off , so u deal with it now so to speak ......

Good tip. I guess I'll run the wires out back somewhere and someday get some backup lights. If you saw my rig you'd understand. lol

 

[ToyotaMatt]

what to use , for the flush or rinse topic ?

 

[ksrunner]

I just went and got a longer front bolt (M8x1.25x25) as SOR sent all six the same. (M8x1.25x20) I also got a few extra long (M8x1.24x35) and nuts to pull down the plate against the springs.

View attachment 1874503

SOR did the same thing with my bolts too.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Georg from Valley Hybrids told me he adds some ATF in with the gear oil. That reminds me I need to drain the tranny and refill with straight gear oil.

 

[Steamer]

Georg from Valley Hybrids told me he adds some ATF in with the gear oil. That reminds me I need to drain the tranny and refill with straight gear oil.

Funny you should mention that. I picked up a quart of ATF today and was going to use it but chickened out. Wasn't sure if it might hurt the seals. So I used a pump up sprayer with mineral spirits and sprayed all the guts down pretty well. Then pumped gear oil all over them and worked the three shift mechanisms back and fourth. Since it's ok with Georg I'll use the ATF after I drain and refill. I knocked over my 5 gallon pumper of gear oil and lost about two gallons before I realized it. Oh yeh, that used up most of my oil dry too lol. Spoke with George today actually about a shift lever and he's already got one shipped out.

 

[Steamer]

Turns out there was a gasket on there. Time for new glasses.
Ear plugs to keep debris out of the 3 indent holes. Bolt down holes don't go through.

Spraying down with mineral spirits.

Flooding with gear oil and working mechanisms back and forth.

 

[Steamer]

what to use , for the flush or rinse topic ?

Might be overkill but I thought of maybe drilling a spare drain plug maybe 1/4" and with wheels off the ground and shifter removed, run through all the gears with engine running and pouring in ATF through the shifter opening and letting drain at the same time.

 

[Steamer]

Balls and springs in and gasket in place. I'm not a sealant kind of guy. I hate scraping gaskets so much I'm always willing to risk a leak. That's just me.
I usually use Never-Seez but recently switched to Sil-Glyde on a recomendation here on Mud. Forget who. We'll see.

Divots in bottom of top plate for springs.

Jacking bolts to help pull down plate and compress springs.

 

[nogo]

This gearbox has seen some moisture!.....I wouldn't consider using it given the amount of rust on the gears.

 

[Steamer]

Didn't use any of the bolts from SOR. Not only did the front center one need to be longer but the other five only caught a thread or two.
With the plate pulled down tight one wasn't even long enough to start.

Ended up using M8x1.25x25 all around. 5/16" flat and lock washers worked fine.
The front center bolt is a bit short and will get an M8x1.25x30 & swap it out.
Now I just get to wait on the shift lever and another pail of gear oil.

 

[Steamer]

This gearbox has seen some moisture!.....I wouldn't consider using it given the amount of rust on the gears.

Yup! It's had a rough life. Maybe the ATF will help with the rust a bit. But since this rig only gets used in the swamp, mostly in 1st gear averaging 2 to 6 mph, I think I'll risk it. I'll run this one as long as it will move me.

I spend a lot of time in water and can't get away from it. Axles are under water often sometime for long periods of time. I change fluids and pinion seals often. The grass out there can wind around the drive shaft and corkscrew it's way right into the seal.
I wonder if part of the rust problem could be from going so slow all the time and oil isn't getting thrown up to the top as much. Maybe I could over fill it some. Like I just did with my slow turning, pointing up too high rear diff.

 

[nogo]

up! It's had a rough life. Maybe the ATF will help with the rust a bit. But since this rig only gets used in the swamp, mostly in 1st gear averaging 2 to 6 mph, I think I'll risk it. I'll run this one as long as it will move me.

Agree it will be just fine crawling around at those speeds.....Do you have an extension tube on the transfer case breather?

 

[Steamer]

.....Do you have an extension tube on the transfer case breather?

No I do not. That's a great tip. Never gave it thought. It will definitely get done while the hump is off. Thank you!