This was my first retrofit. So here are just my thoughts.
-I used a heat gun because the headlights wouldn't fit in my oven. It should be easier with oven. One thing I had to redo was when closing them make sure to close the corners all the way, the corner towards the body where the plastic lens slides into the headlight housing. If it's not in all the way you'll have a gap between the headlight and body (plus potential for leaking). I'm assuming you got Morimoto RetroRubber to help seal them back up?
-I got M4 bolts, washers, nuts from Amazon. Way cheaper then my local HD. Links below.
-Once you open the headlights you'll need to remove the stock projectors. Need to unscrew the adjustment mounts and then pop-out the projectors from the ball joint. I used a long flat head screwdriver to pop it out of the ball joint.
-For initial aiming of the projectors i just mounted the projectors to the brackets and did the aiming inside my house. You'll want a wall that's about 25' away and you'll want to aim the two projectors with each other. I aimed the two projectors on each bracket to be level at 25' feet. After aiming each set of projectors on the bracket I mounted the brackets to the headlights. I then checked the alignment again before putting the lens back on. Once on the car you do the final aiming. I used a computer power supply to power my ballasts when I was aligning/aiming the projectors inside my house. The aiming/alignment on the bracket took the most time but is probably the most crucial step.
Thanks @teejnut ! I order the bolts and nuts from your links and I have the Morimoto RetroRubber.
For final aiming, do you lose the ability to use the stock adjuster? In other words, does your final aiming on the car need to be your final aim when everything is bolted in and sealed?