GX460 Transmission fluid cooler

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One tidbit I'll add here is that IMO the stock transmission cooling problems are just as much due to the radiator as the lack of an external trans cooler (460) or the undersized OEM-style cooler (470). Despite already having a Hayden 678 in my rig, the stock radiator the temps would always still rise as soon as the TCC unlocked. Not necessarily a runaway condition (I don't think they ever got about 220F), but it was obvious the system wasn't able to shed the excess heat from the unlocked TCC.

So, this summer I installed a CSF aluminum radiator. Now, the temps barely budge with the TCC is unlocked. They might go up a couple of degrees and then stop. We pulled our 4K# camper about 4,000 miles on vacation this summer, and I've also towed my tractor (5.8K# with trailer) with the rig, so the new setup has been well-tested.

So my default recommendation for transmission cooling has changed to replacing the OEM radiator with a CSF instead, as the OEM radiators on these rigs are failure-prone anyway. Then, if you need extra cooling, go ahead and install (460) or upgrade (470) the aux trans cooler.

BTW @Rogue556, that is a super-clean install!
the 220 is trans pan temp or the tc?
 
Hello all, long time lurker, first time poster. Great information in this thread which helped me a ton with the install.

I went the DIY route for mounting as brackets are a bit difficult to come by in Canada. Slotted steel 14 gauge, 1 3/8inch wide, one piece across the bottom angled through the existing holes, and a second for stability over the horn using the OEM horn mount to secure. I pushed the cooler farther out in front of the radiator/horns to maintain the OEM horn positioning. It is very sturdy and I'm happy enough with the aesthetic.
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Hayden 678 kit cooler and tubes. I routed the radiator to the lower connection and the transmission to the upper connection. Maintained the OEM spring clamps in their original positions, and used fuel injector clamps at the cooler. In theory these should result in a more even tension distribution than hose clamps. 1/2inch braided sleeve over the tubes for some protection, a bit tough to get a clean cut but it will do the job. I read heating up prior to cutting helps but laziness got the better of me.

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I left the bumper/grille installed and just worked from above and below. Disconnections/connections were tight but was doable with an 11inch bent nose plier.

Didn't bother with a fluid exchange as I did two drain and fills 10-15k KMs ago. Filled the radiator and tubes with ATF before completing the connections. These 3d printed plugs (not my design) in PETG helped keep the cooler/tubes filled while routing but I did see GX Bob uses screws which would've worked just as well Transmission Oil Cooler Fuel Hose Line Plug 10mm ID Toyota Tundra by balancepnt - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6819393
 
Hello all, long time lurker, first time poster. Great information in this thread which helped me a ton with the install.

I went the DIY route for mounting as brackets are a bit difficult to come by in Canada. Slotted steel 14 gauge, 1 3/8inch wide, one piece across the bottom angled through the existing holes, and a second for stability over the horn using the OEM horn mount to secure. I pushed the cooler farther out in front of the radiator/horns to maintain the OEM horn positioning. It is very sturdy and I'm happy enough with the aesthetic.
View attachment 4027504View attachment 4027505
View attachment 4027502

Hayden 678 kit cooler and tubes. I routed the radiator to the lower connection and the transmission to the upper connection. Maintained the OEM spring clamps in their original positions, and used fuel injector clamps at the cooler. In theory these should result in a more even tension distribution than hose clamps. 1/2inch braided sleeve over the tubes for some protection, a bit tough to get a clean cut but it will do the job. I read heating up prior to cutting helps but laziness got the better of me.

View attachment 4027503

I left the bumper/grille installed and just worked from above and below. Disconnections/connections were tight but was doable with an 11inch bent nose plier.

Didn't bother with a fluid exchange as I did two drain and fills 10-15k KMs ago. Filled the radiator and tubes with ATF before completing the connections. These 3d printed plugs (not my design) in PETG helped keep the cooler/tubes filled while routing but I did see GX Bob uses screws which would've worked just as well Transmission Oil Cooler Fuel Hose Line Plug 10mm ID Toyota Tundra by balancepnt - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6819393
my setup looks almost identical, except I put rubber washers on any metal-metal contract to reduce vibration.
 
What type of pin are you guys using to pin the thermostat? I’m about to do my trans cooler install. Thanks
 
Pin thermostat open with 1.5mm pin and idle until AT Pan temp is 115-126° in Fusion before removing overflow plug (one more new crush washer needed) to set ATF level.

Check. (and leave stat pinned open in my case) 👍
lol just asked about this
 
What type of pin are you guys using to pin the thermostat? I’m about to do my trans cooler install. Thanks
I just used a thin nail I had laying around. Prob should have used something more secure, but the spring tension of the thermostat holds it is place.
 
Looks like Lowe’s has the Hillman pins in stock
 
Yep! I had 8 of them delivered in March. But I unpin it for winter when I do my Fall oil change. About time to do Spring oil change and repin it open with a new one. Reused the heck out of them growing up on tractor and wagon hitch pins and other things, but for some reason I want new ones on the GX LOL.

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I just used an aluminum cotter pin since the housing is aluminum and steel will eventually react with it.
 
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