Group Buy--Jowett Performance Filter Housing with Fuomoto drain valve (1 Viewer)

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Thank you again to @bjowett Brian for offering this Group Buy to the 200 community, and for developing an awesome product!

The Group Buy code has now been distributed to all members on the backorder/wait-list. The sign-up for the GB ends at Midnight PST tonight (Monday, December 11). Any additional members that sign up via this thread or PM to me before the deadline will receive the code from me tomorrow morning.

Reminder: Current stock is depleted. Brian is working on getting the next batch completed. Your item(s) will ship once the next batch is completed. I do not have an ETA when that will be.



If you are on the list and did not receive the code, please PM me.
 
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Toyota produces the stock cap in aluminum as well as plastic. Good to discuss, but a non-issue.
you are not correct genuine TOYOTA 's is not aluminium
Can anyone comment on this? I am interested in this group buy but this makes me nervous. Anyone have any evidence to support one way or the other?
trust me (TOYOTA) on this one TOYOTA part is bakelite plastic $65 (superior version) or alloy $35 (cheaper version) . alloy is not 100% aluminium . So if you want to experiment with it and do not trust the TOYOTA it is your call . I was questioning that myself why it is plastic , Toyota told me not to mess with that part just for that reason that I said previously. Good that you are questioning and not "go with a flow"
 
you are not correct genuine TOYOTA 's is not aluminium

trust me (TOYOTA) on this one TOYOTA part is bakelite plastic $65 (superior version) or alloy $35 (cheaper version) . alloy is not 100% aluminium . So if you want to experiment with it and do not trust the TOYOTA it is your call . I was questioning that myself why it is plastic , Toyota told me not to mess with that part just for that reason that I said previously. Good that you are questioning and not "go with a flow"


I am definitely not a "go with the flow" type of person, but I am a person that makes decisions based on actual data, not what some guy at Toyota said (otherwise I'd believe the 200 was already discontinued, the 4Runner was going unibody in 2016, WS fluid never needs to be changed, etc.). I purchased the OEM aluminum housing on my Tundra on my second oil change after the two free ones after my first oil change on it was so difficult as the plastic housing was so tight from my first at home change change (I can see how they could break). It was a great upgrade. I did that after reading MANY different threads on a ton of Toyota members doing this same upgrade with no incident. I had that Tundra through six oil changes with the metal housing with no issues with the housing. I still have been unable to find one thread on any Toyota forum that states a member has had trouble with the oem aluminum alloy housing. I do however, know for a fact that one member on a different forum had the plastic housing break up inside the engine, and his dealership charged him a lot of $$$ to fix it. I think it happened to a member here too, but I don't remember who.

My biggest concern with a metal on metal housing is stripping the threads from crossthreading or overtightening. I'd be more concerned if I was having an inexperienced tech changing my oil. If I was going to go to Toyota for all my oil changes, I'd probably keep the plastic housing. Since I change my own, I have no concerns with this.

And while I agree that there is always an expansion concern with different metals exposed to heat, I personally do not see a huge concern between a billet aluminum housing and an aluminum alloy block.

I believe that thermal expansion of aluminum vs aluminum/magnesium alloy (what many engines are cast from) and most other aluminum alloys, in the temperature range that this filter housing would be exposed to (and even temperatures doubling normal operating temperatures) would be very similar, although at higher temperatures aluminum will indeed expand slightly more. Without knowing the exact alloy composition of the Toyota engine, exact figures cannot be determined. If someone knows the exact composition of the 3UR-FE Block and the Jowett cap I could determine the average coefficients of expansion between the two at peak operating temperature, assuming the Jowett cap is 100% aluminum. There are a lot of data tables on this subject.

However, the thermal expansion of plastics are much higher than aluminum, how much exactly I can't say because I also don't know what type of plastic the OEM housing is. If it is truly bakelite (the first synthetic plastic) I'd be even more concerned with keeping it, as I believe true bakelite is only rated to continuous operating temp of 250 degrees F. While normal engine temp is below that, going higher than that is still in the normal range. My suspicion is it is not in fact bakelite plastic, but similar but more advanced high temp, chemical resistant plastic. Whatever it is comprised of, it does seem to have thermal expansion issues, as this is probably the reason the damn stock filter always seemed to be on too tight, even after doing my own oil changes and not over torquing. On two oil changes with the Jowett, it has removed very easily with a warm engine.
 
The Group Buy is now closed. Thanks again to Brian @bjowett!
 
Thanks for the group buy! I am running the stock aluminum one now after having to carefully chip the plastic one out of my dad's highlander. That would of been a very expensive repair and I was scared to death of damaging the threads in the block. I have changed the oil many times with the aluminum one and have never had an issue. I'm more or less buying this to make draining the oil from the housing a bit less messy and more convenient, not to mention I have a problem with impulse buying cool aftermarket stuff that these great vendors make. Good thing @NLXTACY isn't making stuff for the 200 as his stuff is all over my 80 now. Haha
 
Mine landed this evening, quality thread milling & overall machine & anodizing!

Good stuff @bjowett , thx for the GB work @bamma
 
The revised filter housing depends on the O-ring for sealing. My impression when installing it some months ago was that the thread tolerance was not especially tight. The threads keep the cap in place but they do not form a seal. I have had no issues or concerns with mine.
 
Just received an update from Brian. The machine shop he is using is backed up, so those of you on the backorder list, expect your housings to ship mid-February.
 
I missed that last round. Can I get on the new list? I’ll need the filter housing, drain valve, and filter wrench.
 
I’ve been looking at these. What is the exact purpose of this part? I see everyone wanting one but I’m not sure what it does. Sorry for the stupid question.
 
Yes, you can get on the new list.

This cap simply solves the major deficiencies with the stock part, those issues are designed in to create failure and get you to the dealer. The number one improvement is the 6 point nut and socket design, which allows easy and confident removal of the cap every time. On the stock 14 flute plastic cap, the various removal tools can jam and become stuck, or slip and begin to round things off... especially if the cap is overtorqued. Damage eventually ensues, or is sometimes immediate and catastrophic (a little strong in the wording there). Next is the drain valve. The stock drain valve with its quirky insertion tool can be a PITA for some folks, it is designed to prevent messes, but many times it can create them, or frustrate a person. The EZ Valve is a quick turn of a lever.... and overbuilt just like the cap.
 

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