Get rid of that hood shake (1 Viewer)

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Fountain, CO
Hey everyone. I’m sure it’s be documented numerous times, but it’s a short and simple post.

If you or a loved one own an 80 and suffer from hood shake on the highway, you may be entitled to financial compensation.

Hood shakes on the highway? Call us now!

Passengers always ask why your hood looks like it’s popped while driving? Call us NOW!

Call us at 1-800-HUD-SHEK

All jokes aside change these seals out and you likely won’t have hood shake anymore. Mine were missing and I’ve had considerable shake at highway speeds. It was the first thing I noticed on my drive home after I bought it. Hood latch mechanism has always be torqued and tight so that wasn’t the culprit either. 2.5 years later, finally replaced them and voila.

These seals also keep out debris, moisture, dirt, etc.
Allegedly they help with cooling as well because it keeps air from flowing above the radiator instead of through it, changing the underhood airflow and pressure.

Thanks for tuning in and stay safe 😷

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While those new seals will help, they are not what is supposed to stop a hood from shaking. It's the proper alignment/adjustment of the hood latch and the rubber stops at each corner of the front of the hood on the core support. They provide the rigidity once latched to keep if from shaking. Properly aligned, the hood will not shake even with all those rubber seals missing.
 
Also if you are having hood deflection at highway speeds the other likely culprit is the adhesive between the hood skin and hood cross braces deteriorating over time and becoming unglued. The hood then no longer has much structural support in the middle and the winds at speed cause deflection. It too is an easy fix but is probably best done with the hood off the vehicle and turned upsidedown so that you can apply the adhesive with the hood haveing more even tension.

I just scraped off any loose or cracked old adhesive and reapplied the new adhesive where the previous areas were glued. I then added a little bit of weight over the center of the support beams until dry since there was a bit of a gap between the panel and support structure.

hood repair 1.jpg
hood repair 2.jpg


The adhesive I uses was a 3M product (NVH 04274 dampening material) designed for this. It is a bit pricey - especially considering you have to buy a gun to fit the cartridges but it worked well.

hood repair 3.jpg


If you end up still having some deflection or vibration at speed after you replaced the rubber pieces you bought and have confirmed the hood is properly adjusted this may be your next step.
 
^^^What they said^^^. That hood appears to be slightly misaligned, like it's slipped forward from the hinges (?put back on incorrectly). Has the hood ever been taken off, been in a front end accident?
 
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^^^What they said^^^. That hood appears to be slightly misaligned, like it's slipped forward from the hinges (?put back on incorrectly). Has the hood ever been taken off, been in a front end accident?

I just bought that same product and applicator gun that Cahill posted above.
There is also a 3M Flexible foam which is similar to what Toyota used originally
for the door skins (between the outer skin and the intrustion bar).

Never use an inflexible adhesive or epoxy for the hood skin (or door skins),
those adhesives can cause depressions in the sheet metal which expands and contracts with engine heat, sun exposure, outdoor temperature changes.

No known accidents. The hood and fender don't line up perfectly because all the fenders and panels have dynamat so the fenders don't fit exactly 100% like factory. So if you're using the fender as a reference for how the hood fits, it can be misleading.
 
No known accidents. The hood and fender don't line up perfectly because all the fenders and panels have dynamat so the fenders don't fit exactly 100% like factory. So if you're using the fender as a reference for how the hood fits, it can be misleading.
Even if they have dynamat on them they should still line up right unless you dynamite the mounting surface witch doesn't make sense. The right side of the hood looks really low annd you should be able to raise the rubber hood adjuster to make this line up better and stop hood shake. It also possible the mounting point has broke lose like it did on mine and requires welding. In any case like others have said the seals that you replaced are not meant to keep the hood from shaking ;) just sayin
 
While those new seals will help, they are not what is supposed to stop a hood from shaking. It's the proper alignment/adjustment of the hood latch and the rubber stops at each corner of the front of the hood on the core support. They provide the rigidity once latched to keep if from shaking. Properly aligned, the hood will not shake even with all those rubber seals missing.
Mine doesn't shake, but wobbles from the center of the hood.
 
Mine doesn't shake, but wobbles from the center of the hood.
Another thing to consider is whether the pin that enters the latch mechanism (in the centre) is worn away. Given that the latch cannot readily be adjusted for height, the pin may need some restorative work to regain the correct position. YMMV...
 
No known accidents. The hood and fender don't line up perfectly because all the fenders and panels have dynamat so the fenders don't fit exactly 100% like factory. So if you're using the fender as a reference for how the hood fits, it can be misleading.
Out of curiosity, whats the point of all the dynamat?
 
Thank you for the info. I have had my 80 a long time and never knew there were supposed to be seals there. I have already used panel bond to bond the skin back to the frame as you did. Informative post for sure.

When I read the title to this thread I thought I would see photos of hood pins :)
 

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