gasket for PAN SUB-ASSY, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL
- Thread starter Vergo
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If there's no gasket is it FIPG that's used to seal it?
89-02 3spd w/OD A/T A343f, no gasket. Use Toyota FIPG.
03-07 5spd A/T A750f, Rubber Gasket. NO FIPG.
input VIN # at www.partsouq.com. To get correct parts numbers or every part for your Land Cruiser or LX
03-07 5spd A/T A750f, Rubber Gasket. NO FIPG.
input VIN # at www.partsouq.com. To get correct parts numbers or every part for your Land Cruiser or LX
- Thread starter
- #5
Many thanks,
yes www.partsouq.com is where I usually check but I was surprise to not find the gasket.
Where you find the info?
89-02 3spd w/OD A/T A343f, no gasket. Use Toyota FIPG.
03-07 5spd A/T A750f, Rubber Gasket. NO FIPG.
Many thanks
Andrea
yes www.partsouq.com is where I usually check but I was surprise to not find the gasket.
Where you find the info?
89-02 3spd w/OD A/T A343f, no gasket. Use Toyota FIPG.
03-07 5spd A/T A750f, Rubber Gasket. NO FIPG.
Many thanks
Andrea
Experience, with USA 100 series. FSM, for year. Deductive reasoning, based on parts diagrams.
You may find aftermarket gasket for the A343f (3spd), IDK. But not OEM.
If you're going to work on your rig. I suggest you get two things at minimum: FSM for, your year & model. A good digital torque wrench.
In FSM, you'd have found it states either FIPG or gasket, depending on which transmission you have. In the USA 100 series. We've two A/T, 3spd & 5spd as they're commonly referred to. But even those have variation.
In the USA 100 series platform. We've variation based on year. 2 main variations 98-02 & 03-07.
Looking up parts, we further break-downs: 89-99 LC, 89-99LX, 2000 has two variation, spilt yr at about Jan 2000. 00-02LC, 00-02LX, 2003LC, 2003LX. 04-05LC, 04-05LX, 06-07LC and 06-07LX. even within those years groups, we some variation in parts numbers.
Your VIN# helps me, known what you have. Provided I've time to look-up, something I often don't.
It's also a good idea, to post model, year, miles and stock or build detail. In signature line. Helps all know what you have a glance, without you posting in every post.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thank you very much for all this helpful information.
I’d like to take the opportunity to ask for an additional clarification regarding which transmission fluid to use for my Land Cruiser 100 (VIN JTEHC05J804007018).
I’m not sure whether it should use ATF WS or ATF Type IV.
Thanks
I’d like to take the opportunity to ask for an additional clarification regarding which transmission fluid to use for my Land Cruiser 100 (VIN JTEHC05J804007018).
I’m not sure whether it should use ATF WS or ATF Type IV.
Thanks
my 2000 had a gasket and no sign of FIPG been used.
Check you FSM. Also run your VIN# at partsouq. See if it shows a gasket. If not, your AT pan was pulled by a PO. You may even have a remanufactured A/T. The 2000 was a year, that saw high number of bad A/T's.
Here's a "May 2000 VIN #". No Pan gasket. ("May" could be a 2000 or 2001)
Toyota Owners manual gives you recommendation. You'll need to look it up. Your FSM, should also help..
I suspect it will recommended Toyota II or III ATF Or equivalent which is Dexron II or III. Since it looks to me you have the 3spd A343F Toyota A/T. I use Mobil 1 multi vehicle (MV) full synthetic (FS) ATF, for those and power steering. I suspect you have variation of the A343f. Why, because your A/T in show a break down of valve body, as our USA 3 spd A343f. Our 5spd in USA 5spd A750f, no break down of valve body.
I use, here in USA. Which we have UZJ100L-GNPGKA platform 100 series
98-02 Mobil 1 MV SF ATF. Which has the A343f A/T. A/T fluid level check at 158F to 176F.
2003 Toyota IV ATF. First yr of the A750f, last year with dipstick. A/T fluid level check at 158F to 176F.
2004-07 Toyota WS ATF. 04 was first yr dipstick removed. USA TSB: A/T fluid level check 97F to 115F.
If you go into partsouq without VIN #, and try to find your vehicle. You'll be you'll be lost in the massive number of global variation of Land Cruiser. This is one reason, I avoid giving part numbers.
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BTW. It is generally not recommend to pull the pan. Why:
May break a pan bolt(s). Which becomes a PITA to correct.
The A343f (3spd) with FIPG seal. Is a PITA to R&R.
We have a strainer (pick-up screen), not a filter. They hold larger pieces, without restricting flow. Exception: Trashed clutches, which then A/T needs rebuilt.
Magnets do their job.
Pulling pan. Cleaning bottom of pan, the magnets and replacing strainer. Will clean out more abrasive, then D&F or full flush. But most of those abrasive, are heavy & larger, that remain in place. So yield is minimal for risk, time, labor and added cost.
Doing a full 12 qt. flush. Risk exposing a bad transmission.
Burnt ATF in a transmission with excessively worn clutch plates. Its ATF is abrasive. Adding fiction to clutches. Clean out 95% of old ATF, with fresh 12 qt ATF flush. We loose that abrasive. This will expose a bad transmission, within minutes or weeks at most of normal driving miles.
Whereas, Drain & Fills (D&F) is considered safer. Since, 80% of abrasiveness remains in ATF, aiding bad clutch plates. But, abrasive result in excessive wear to valves and their ports in valve body.
Some do repeated D&F, every few thousand miles. Resulting in more abrasive removed, but less than full flush.
Aggressive D&F results, is near the same as full 12qt flush. But takes more time and ATF/cost.
I've done hundreds of transmission, full 12 qt flushes on 100 series. With up to 400K miles on them, with no reported history of flush. I've only seen good results. One reasons for good results. Is, so many D&F ~3qt. mix in unknow ATF brands. Mixing ATF cause shifting issues. Which I correct, with all known new ATF.
May break a pan bolt(s). Which becomes a PITA to correct.
The A343f (3spd) with FIPG seal. Is a PITA to R&R.
We have a strainer (pick-up screen), not a filter. They hold larger pieces, without restricting flow. Exception: Trashed clutches, which then A/T needs rebuilt.
Magnets do their job.
Pulling pan. Cleaning bottom of pan, the magnets and replacing strainer. Will clean out more abrasive, then D&F or full flush. But most of those abrasive, are heavy & larger, that remain in place. So yield is minimal for risk, time, labor and added cost.
Doing a full 12 qt. flush. Risk exposing a bad transmission.
Burnt ATF in a transmission with excessively worn clutch plates. Its ATF is abrasive. Adding fiction to clutches. Clean out 95% of old ATF, with fresh 12 qt ATF flush. We loose that abrasive. This will expose a bad transmission, within minutes or weeks at most of normal driving miles.
Whereas, Drain & Fills (D&F) is considered safer. Since, 80% of abrasiveness remains in ATF, aiding bad clutch plates. But, abrasive result in excessive wear to valves and their ports in valve body.
Some do repeated D&F, every few thousand miles. Resulting in more abrasive removed, but less than full flush.
Aggressive D&F results, is near the same as full 12qt flush. But takes more time and ATF/cost.
I've done hundreds of transmission, full 12 qt flushes on 100 series. With up to 400K miles on them, with no reported history of flush. I've only seen good results. One reasons for good results. Is, so many D&F ~3qt. mix in unknow ATF brands. Mixing ATF cause shifting issues. Which I correct, with all known new ATF.
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- #11