Gas Tank Lining
- Thread starter Okie_dave
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It probably depends on how bad the rust is. If it's rusted through in one spot, most likely it's rusted through in quite a few places. I used the por 15 with pretty good results. What looked like 1 leak about 1/16" in diameter, after some cleaning, turned into about 30 or 40 small holes in one area. I ended up cutting and welding a 8" x 10" patch to fix it, then used POR 15 gas tank sealer to coat the inside. It's almost like a thick epoxy paint, it seems to hold up pretty well. You could probably just duct tape the outside and use the sealer on the inside, but again, it will depend on the size of the leaks.
A radiator shop may boil your tank out for you. Haven't had this done in years so I'm not sure they still do it.
- Thread starter
- #4
Checked locally and one place wanted $140 to clean and line a 20 gallon tank (I wasn't sure how big a 40 tank was). Good ol' Cruiser_Dan is getting me a new one for $242. Probably a better way to go in the long run.
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- #5
I am not sure this one is leaking. The 40 sat outside for a number of years and the gas cap was off when I got it. I pulled the sending unit which was rusty and looked inside to see a patch of rust on the bottom. It can probably be repaired.
I've had good luck with the lining material from the makers of POR 15, just follow their instructions.
Kelly
Kelly
try a search, its been talked about. i did mine about a year ago with the poor 15 tank sealer kit. just follow the instructions with the kit and it should work fine. i have had no problems since i did it. good luck!!
Just did a sidekick gas tank this weekend for a friend.. 242 for new and NO work go for that......
I went through pure hell re-lining my Fj45 tank AFTER I paid to have it welded up and pressure tested (still leaked like a sieve).
Hindsight I should have just bought a new tank BUT I learned alot about prep work and how to clear the pickup lines when the tank liner seals so well you cant get ANY gas out of it
Hindsight I should have just bought a new tank BUT I learned alot about prep work and how to clear the pickup lines when the tank liner seals so well you cant get ANY gas out of it
Another option:
http://www.gastankrenu.com/
Blasted inside and out. Holes/cracks/whatever repaired. Tank separated for repair if needed. Baked on coating. Prices vary between franchises.
Haven't tried it yet, myself.
http://www.gastankrenu.com/
Blasted inside and out. Holes/cracks/whatever repaired. Tank separated for repair if needed. Baked on coating. Prices vary between franchises.
Haven't tried it yet, myself.
Deep South Cruisers said:Hindsight I should have just bought a new tank BUT I learned alot about prep work and how to clear the pickup lines when the tank liner seals so well you cant get ANY gas out of it
I don't regret doing my own tank, but yup, you gotta be careful of those pickup lines when you seal it. They're a pain to unclog if you get sealer in them. Next time if i do it, I'm probably gonna use the air compressor to blow the lines clear before it sets.
If there's no holes in the tank then it's a lot easier to fix, I'd try coating it with POR15 or whatever. If it doesn't work, you're only out $20 or so.
lone gunman said:
was your just rusted? I have the main tank and an auxillary and want to do both and the only issue is rust, no holes.
Poser said:
I believe so.
The PO said this rig sat for a year or so before he got it all fixed up to roll and sell it, so maybe it formed during that sitting process.
Heres how it came to light:
Went to a carb guy to get it tuned correctly for my Chevy as it never was (guy just tossed it on) and I wanted to see about optomizig for gas mileage and such as well. Anyway, in the process a leak was found from the carb. Well, the leak was never fixed in all of this (and it should have as the seats and needles were replaced) and that is when he noticed grit and such deposited in the carb - which was reaming out these new needles right after we put them in and causing this slight flooding that cuased the drip. SO, upon further inspectoin of the fuel filters (there were 2 - one for front tank and one for the auxillary) setteled at the bottom was what looked like a bunch of rust and junk (photo). So, I then put in another 3rd filter right out of the rear auxillary tank to try to determine which tank was the issue. well, it seems both are dirty as the filter coming out of the main tank has this rusty loking funk settled at the bottom of the filter as well as the one on the rear.
as it is, the gas now flows from the rear (through a filter) and from the front (through a filter) and then 1 more filter both would go through and it stills gets funky.
do you agree that confirms rust and funk in the tanks? as I can see it built up in these filters and they seem to get dirty hella quick. I change them every 4 months or so.
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I guess that I would pull the sending unit when the tank is almost empty, and look around in there with a mirror/flashlight and see what you find......
It could be rust.....have you tried putting a magnet on the filter and see if the pieces follow the magnet around?
It could be rust.....have you tried putting a magnet on the filter and see if the pieces follow the magnet around?
Poser said:
good call... I will do that
Poser said:
why the heck didn't I think of that. duh!!either way Poser, that type/size/amount of settling funk should not be in a filter, no?
