gargage beam finished

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Joined
Aug 22, 2007
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Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Well it was snowing and blowing yesterday I finally got the metal that was laying in my garage put up. Now I need to find a trolley/lift. Prolly H.F. but will be shopping around.

1. Drilled 3/8 holes in 3/8 base plate.
2. Mounted base plates with 3/8 expansion threaded expansion studs. They went 3.5 inch deep. None went through the slab because plates are mounted over footing locations.

3. Cut 3 inch .188 wall posts to seven feet.
4. Welded I-beam plates (1/4 inch 6"x6") pre-drilled to match top plate.
5. Welded top post plates.
6. Tacked and held 1 post with straps.
7. Hoisted and ratchet strap beam on to 1 post and dropped two long bolts through to allow movement of second post.

8. Bolted second post to low and and dragged it up with top beam.
9. used 8 grade 10.9 M10 Cap Bolts.
10. Plumbed posts and finshed weld base plates.

it was a long day, but can't wait to hang a 2F from there. :)

1baseplates.webp

2beam_topPlate.webp

3beamtopplate.webp
 
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That's sweet!
I am thinking of doing something similar in my shop

I'm getting old..
 
Nice! What plans do you have on using it? any engine swaps in your future :hhmm:?
 
Ya'll isa doin' it wrong...

RedNeck.png
 
Thanks, for the complements, guys. I've got a nice tranny jack (floor style) and cherry picker for engine pulls. I've done 2f+gear box pulls by myself multiple times that way. (If you need help Jackson, let me know).

I intend to use the beam for engine installs since I will have more precise control, but until I get rid of the rear wood bench, and all the parts that are on it.

Immediately, where I see the crane being most useful is simplifying the monkey biz I usually do to unload a motor/gear box/ axle from a truck I get delivered. Especially 2 F blocks. I can lift an empty one with a buddy, but the process of getting it unloaded and on a stand or cart or bench and positioned to work on it is quite a few steps.

Other tasks include pulling / putting heads, Attaching a gear box to a motor will be simplified with a swivel, the rotation of a motor for easier work. Pulling / putting a the bellhousing and flywheel back on a 2f

Looks like it should hold OK. Do ya need a brace for front/rear movement since the trolley will only go sideways? Might check with Northern Tools for the trolley. John

I get up down, side 2 side, and then rely on the truck/cart/pallet for forward and backward. Basically lift the load, then move what is under it. Of course I dream of another beam just like it to complete a 4 post mini bridge crane, but I'll need to save for that one!

I do have near term plans to tie the wall side post into another steel work surface which would provide even more front back support and the ability to drop a heavy part right on the work bench.

Northern Tools is a good tip. They used to be called Northern Hydraulics and were about 40 miles from my parents house in MN. A trip there was like a walk through Santa's factory. Lot's of memories!

Nice! What plans do you have on using it? any engine swaps in your future :hhmm:?

Thanks, murf! No engine swaps, but maybe some gearbox swaps. :)
 
Looking good Mike. I think last time I bought a trolly for work I got it at Grainger.
Don't know about nowdays, but Granger used to be a pain unless you had a business tax ID. Might look at McMaster Carr also.
 
Thanks, for the complements, guys. I've got a nice tranny jack (floor style) and cherry picker for engine pulls. I've done 2f+gear box pulls by myself multiple times that way. (If you need help Jackson, let me know).

Thanks for the offer Mike. Do you happen to have a flat bed tow truck as well?
 
It looks even better in person. I happened to be there just after those pix were posted. Great work, and now I want one, too, for the upcoming pull I have planned.

I had the opportunity to see Henry's garage on Saturday, to say that he was inspired by Mike is something of an understatement. :-)
 
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