FZJ80 96 Gen 3 5.3L w/ 4l60e Swap

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2 questions

1) Should I keep the toyota cruise box for any reason? Everyone ditches it but they run DBW LS's. I haven't studies the wiring but I dont believe it would ever work.

2) Charcoal canister, should I keep it for any reason? LS port is blocked off but I wasn't sure how to vent the tank properly so it doesn't smell.

Im trying to free up room for the LS computer and relays/Fuses etc.

Thanks!
 
Garrett86 said:
2 questions

1) Should I keep the toyota cruise box for any reason? Everyone ditches it but they run DBW LS's. I haven't studies the wiring but I dont believe it would ever work.

2) Charcoal canister, should I keep it for any reason? LS port is blocked off but I wasn't sure how to vent the tank properly so it doesn't smell.

Im trying to free up room for the LS computer and relays/Fuses etc.

Thanks!
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No you can throw away all the cruise stuff. You can buy a rostra or dakota digital universal cruise control kit and wire it in. That's what I did, it works great. You should wire up the LS evap system. The LS controls the evap operation nicely. It will keep the tank vented properly. I use a gm charcoal canister and ventilated and purge valve.
 
Thank you! Is the GM canister smaller than the toyota one? Im trying to free up some space.
 
Quick update, went on a side mission to clean out and replace the evaporator....well worth it.

Also made all the AN lines for transmission cooler and power steering. Took awhile to get the right fittings in hand.

Progress is slow right now as I have some other projects pressing. Next will be connecting wiring GM and Toyota then mounting the GM ecu. I bought a Delta washer relocation to free up space. My current relocation mounted the washer at an angle near the cruise control box.

Also need to research an upper rad hose. I put on the original waterpump which has a different inlet than newer waterpump styles. May have to replace it but hope i dont lol
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Im running out of room lol. I've been thinking and thinking and this is the best spot i can find for the GM ECU. I do not like it is connector up or that its right next to the washer fluid. I can't turn it on its side I dont think due to hood clearence. Most swaps I see have a single battery (I have dual). I bought the delta bracket (installed) to move the washer fluid parallel to the firewall. But its still tight. Any suggestions?

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Im getting a custom aluminum washer reservoir made that uses a gm pump. Will be smaller and not leak when I go offroad. Ill post pics once it comes it. This washer fluid is costing a small fortune but I want to be sure it doesnt wreck the ecu and Fuses etc that will be in this area lol. More to come in a couple weeks. Thanks for the input
 
I got the washer bottle mocked up. It will need to be filled more often but will work perfectly. Cap has an O ring so no excessive leaking when wheeling. Came with a GM washer pump so I just need to Buy the GM plug and wire it in. Jackfabs.com was awesome, I just text him some dimensions of the tabs so it matches up to a couple holes on the delta bracket. Gives a great spot for the GM ECU and room for fuse box and relays. I have to add about 2-3 relays in this area for 4lo and the oil level sensor to swap them from ground signal to positive signals.



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In theme with things I've learned the hard way is originally i just swapped a new Acdelco waterpump on from a 99 5.3 truck. The outlet was it a terrible spot and would hit the intake tubing. So I'm swapping on a LS3 camaro waterpump which moves the inlet towards the radiator inlet. ICT makes a bracket to move the idler and I have to trim the alternator/PS bracket.
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I got the LS3 waterpump on. Had to order a tensioner pulley for it then a new belt I imagine. Also got the LS harness half plugged in. Need to sort out some more wiring but nothing to difficult. I need to wire in the EVAP purge into the GM ECU. Ill have to take a couple week break but I'll update when I get back around to this thing. Next I'm going to finish plugging in the trans/transfercase. Then pull the harness and loom it all. Then finish up the wiring and on to coolant hoses, exhaust and intake.
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Update

I've been working on the wiring and it has to be the most time consuming part of this entire swap. I have everything figured out finally and am working through running all the wires. Not much to show as it just looks like a rats nest lol. But I do have some notes below and if anyone is curious on how I did anything just let me know...I can't promise I'll remember forever

All OEM Gauges work...allegedly
  • NSS comes off 4l60e for starter and GM ECU
  • NSS for Toyota harness/Gear selection goes to Dakota Digital
  • 4LO I need relay to send a ground signal to the GM ECU (Toyota sends a 12v+)
  • TCC run to a relay to send GM ECU proper signal
  • Charcoal purge I had to tap a wire into the GM ECU for function (it was left off my pre-made harness)
  • Overdrive/Tow Haul mode will be turned on by either the stock toyota O/D switch or the PWR button. I need a momentary ground signal to the GM ECU to trigger. O/D is ground but not momentary and PWR is momentary but is 12v lol. Either way I can make it work but haven't decided on an which option. I'm thinking PWR button because it's easier to hit. Dash light will work either option to indicate it's in Tow Haul/OD off
  • Oil Level - all the research i did appears both toyota and GM are normally open so I wired the GM one to the Toyota harness. So if the light comes on and there is oil in there I'll add a relay and flip the NO to NC.
I'm going to roll the dice on the stock fuel pump. I bypassed the resister in the fender well so it gets full voltage now. So I'll see if it can hang. Everything I read it should be fine for the 5.3 i'm running. Last wiring thing I need to figure out is the alternator. I have some links to read which I think I can get it figured out but i'm not to worried about it until I get the ECU mounted and all wires ran.

After it's running which will still be awhile I'm going to try my hand at adding cruise control again.
 
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