FZJ80 96 Gen 3 5.3L w/ 4l60e Swap

[Garrett86]

Happy New Year!

I'm not one for posting but I have spent years reading and learning from all of you. I have gathered almost all the information I need to complete my swap but am hitting my head against the wall with a couple things. I have the EWD book and pdf and have studied it extensively but am running into a couple questions if someone can help guide me. I've searched all the posts and this is my last resort posting it. Also I am about mid way through the swap so this is not a I'm thinking about doing it question lol. I'll post some pictures

Info
1996 80 Series
1999 5.3l truck motor with 4l60E
PSI harness


Wiring questions

1. Alternator Wiring - I have the stock 80 series wiring and the wiring for the LS. The LS harness only uses 2 of the 4 wires on the GM alternator. The Toyota harness has 3 wires, 2 of which are for the dash gauge and one black wire which I assume is the exciter wire? I don't know which wires from the toyota harness to connect to the alternator and where to get the cluster work work.
   1. 
2. Starter Wiring - Goal is to have a working NSS so it only starts in P and N. Not sure why I can't wrap my head around this one as it seems like people figure this out without much issue. On the Toyota NSS there is a large gauge wire BW and BR that go through the NSS to the starter. Do I need to put a relay there and run a ground trigger to my Dakota Digital shift indicator box (Safety position)? If so any suggestions on a relay and where I should put it? I was already going to put the LS wiring harness NSS trigger to the Dakota Digital box safety position.
3. 4LO Ground when on signal wire. I am pretty sure I need a relay since the signal is 12v+ from the toyota harness but figured I'd ask incase I missed something
4. Oil level low on the LS oil pan is normally Open and the Toyota signal is Normally closed. This is low on priority but seems the only solution is a complicated mess of relays unless someone has input on this.

 

[Garrett86]

 

[Garrett86]

Current fitment issue is the marks 4wd engine mounts are putting the engine to close to the driver's side. Work on putting a half inch spacer under the mounts. PS pulley and shift linkage on the trans are to close.

 

[Garrett86]

Sorry can't edit yet lol. But here is the engine in. You can see it sits towards the driver's side about an inch off center. The pulley on the PS pump almost touches the steering gear box.

 

[White Stripe]

The front coils should be pulled so the front is sitting on the bump stops so you can check for interference. I can't tell if you have them pulled. With my marks mounts, I first set front to back location. Then the engine/trans/tcase needs to be parallel in the chassis left to right. In other words if you move the engine over an inch right or left the tcase should move the same amount left or right. Then set the vertical angle which should be the same angle as the original drivetrain. Keeping within those parameters to find the best location for it to clear everything front to back, left to right, up and down. In the end your transmission mount will bolt to the crossmember about 1.5" directly rearward of the original crossmember holes. The power steering pulley tight clearance is normal. It should almost touch actually. Installing the delta steering box reinforcement will give more clearance. Thats my 2 cents anyway. Hope its helpful.

 

[Garrett86]

The front coils should be pulled so the front is sitting on the bump stops so you can check for interference. I can't tell if you have them pulled. With my marks mounts, I first set front to back location. Then the engine/trans/tcase needs to be parallel in the chassis left to right. In other words if you move the engine over an inch right or left the tcase should move the same amount left or right. Then set the vertical angle which should be the same angle as the original drivetrain. Keeping within those parameters to find the best location for it to clear everything front to back, left to right, up and down. In the end your transmission mount will bolt to the crossmember about 1.5" directly forward of the original crossmember holes. The power steering pulley tight clearance is normal. It should almost touch actually. Installing the delta steering box reinforcement will give more clearance. Thats my 2 cents anyway. Hope its helpful.

Thank you for that. Springs are in it so I'll pull them and re-check. I did have to re-drill the holes in the crossmember 1" back from the stock holes to make the engine mounts line up. It seems like back to front it's where it should be given I had to clearance the firewall a little on the passenger side valve cover like the instruction said. I did weld in the Delta steering box brace which someone had mentioned during a swap I was reading which was great info since it was much easier with the engine out. I'll follow your steps and make sure it's all square. Thanks again

 

[White Stripe]

Thank you for that. Springs are in it so I'll pull them and re-check. I did have to re-drill the holes in the crossmember 1" back from the stock holes to make the engine mounts line up. It seems like back to front it's where it should be given I had to clearance the firewall a little on the passenger side valve cover like the instruction said. I did weld in the Delta steering box brace which someone had mentioned during a swap I was reading which was great info since it was much easier with the engine out. I'll follow your steps and make sure it's all square. Thanks again

With the delta plate in you should have around 1/4 clearance to the stock pulley. That said you have a different pulley than me. Sounds like your pretty close.

 

[NeverFinis]

Happy New Year!

I'm not one for posting but I have spent years reading and learning from all of you. I have gathered almost all the information I need to complete my swap but am hitting my head against the wall with a couple things. I have the EWD book and pdf and have studied it extensively but am running into a couple questions if someone can help guide me. I've searched all the posts and this is my last resort posting it. Also I am about mid way through the swap so this is not a I'm thinking about doing it question lol. I'll post some pictures

Info
1996 80 Series
1999 5.3l truck motor with 4l60E
PSI harness


Wiring questions

1. Alternator Wiring - I have the stock 80 series wiring and the wiring for the LS. The LS harness only uses 2 of the 4 wires on the GM alternator. The Toyota harness has 3 wires, 2 of which are for the dash gauge and one black wire which I assume is the exciter wire? I don't know which wires from the toyota harness to connect to the alternator and where to get the cluster work work.
   1. View attachment 4059828
2. Starter Wiring - Goal is to have a working NSS so it only starts in P and N. Not sure why I can't wrap my head around this one as it seems like people figure this out without much issue. On the Toyota NSS there is a large gauge wire BW and BR that go through the NSS to the starter. Do I need to put a relay there and run a ground trigger to my Dakota Digital shift indicator box (Safety position)? If so any suggestions on a relay and where I should put it? I was already going to put the LS wiring harness NSS trigger to the Dakota Digital box safety position.
3. 4LO Ground when on signal wire. I am pretty sure I need a relay since the signal is 12v+ from the toyota harness but figured I'd ask incase I missed something
4. Oil level low on the LS oil pan is normally Open and the Toyota signal is Normally closed. This is low on priority but seems the only solution is a complicated mess of relays unless someone has input on this.

1) It would help if you wrote which wires of the GM 4 position plug is populated. I use a later 2 wire plug alternator, so I don't know the older 4 wire alternator.

This should help

You can wire L terminal to Toyota's charge light. As far as the other wire, you didn't identify it.

2) This depends on your transmission and how it does P/N. Yes, you can use a Dakota Digital Box, at the shift lever, to detect park neutral but I prefer the transmission handle it.

Then you pass the start signal (B-W) to it, and then back to the starter. One should add in a relay if the GM starter draws more current than the original Toyota starter.




3 and 4) I agree..relay needed.

 

[Garrett86]

1) It would help if you wrote which wires of the GM 4 position plug is populated. I use a later 2 wire plug alternator, so I don't know the older 4 wire alternator.

This should help
View attachment 4060759

You can wire L terminal to Toyota's charge light. As far as the other wire, you didn't identify it.

2) This depends on your transmission and how it does P/N. Yes, you can use a Dakota Digital Box, at the shift lever, to detect park neutral but I prefer the transmission handle it.

Then you pass the start signal (B-W) to it, and then back to the starter. One should add in a relay if the GM starter draws more current than the original Toyota starter.




3 and 4) I agree..relay needed.

Thank you for your input

1. For the alternator the LS harness is wired to the two middle pins. So if I tap the wire to the L position and then I'd remove the B-L wire going back to the gauges (safe end it) the gauge would function correctly?
2. The 4l60e I have the wiring for the NSS and could hook that up. I guess I was over thinking it. I now see that it should act as a switch and I can connect the B-W and B-R Toyota wires to it and save myself a relay and some wires. I was thinking I had to send it another power source etc. but that was if I want the 4l60E to do the reverse lights and send a NSS signal. I'll just use it for the starter and see how that goes.

 

[Garrett86]

Side note I did contact Marks4wd and they said the mounts are designed for the engine to sit 1" off center. So I have it really close to the final position. I just need to add a small spacer to level the engine to the frame which I welded up yesterday and just waiting on paint to dry. After that I'll put the headers back on and it's time to slap the wiring on this thing...Which is one step of 1000 left.

Other task at hand currently is figuring out the shifter. I saw in the 80 series swap thread that some people used a rod with the 4l60e and most used the trailblazer cable. I bought the cable and have it all mocked up except for the shifter arm from the landcruiser. I read somewhere that it should be 3.65" from hole to hole but for the life of me can't find the post if anyone knows. Also when it comes to the shifter I can't decide between keeping the 96 shifter and modifying the gate or swapping in a 91-92 shifter. I've collected 2 91-92 shifters over the last year but both the stickers look terrible. I tried to re-do one but failed with my are paint brush skills. I'm leaning towards keeping the stock shifter and just swapping out the gear stickers but wish someone could print out new ones for me so it is perfect. I'll attach some picture

 

[Garrett86]

 

[NeverFinis]

Thank you for your input

1. For the alternator the LS harness is wired to the two middle pins. So if I tap the wire to the L position and then I'd remove the B-L wire going back to the gauges (safe end it) the gauge would function correctly?

Yes, I think Y-L , from the charge light in the dash, gets connected to L on the alternator.

You can test this by grounding Y-L, which should turn on the charge light on the dash, assuming key is in the ON position.

12V Switched Ignition to I/F, which happens to be B-L.

Toyota ->Alternator
Y-L -> L
B-L -> I/F

 

[White Stripe]

Im really surprised nobody makes a new d32L label. That said, I think the lokar shifter looks nicer than using a factory shifter but thats personal preference. I think rock rod build has the build thread with the shift length.

 

[Garrett86]

So I've completed the shifter and shifter cable

Shifter cable I used the trailblazer one. I opted to mount the shifter cable retainer to the bracket for the 4lo shifter. I milled out a piece of aluminum to fit it and bolted it in. I also did the shift cable in the stock location on the 4l60e instead of flipping it like some have done. I just need to do a heat shield for the exhaust when I get there. I did do 3.65" on the stock toyota shifter and it seemed a little short. Feels like 3.7 or 3.75 would have been better. I also stuck with the stock 96 shifter and just dremeled out the extra gear position. I have enough projects and will circle back to install the early 80 series shifter after it's running.

Also fun fact....the marks 4wd 4lo shifter plate is made for a early 80 series shifter that are square and not a rectangle like later 80s. Found this one on ebay

Top plate with the two small holes is threaded for the aluminum block I machined out.

Finished product

 

[Garrett86]

Dakota GSS 3000

I thought about this alot and did not like the idea of this fragile little thing hanging on the side of the trans waiting for the smallest stick to destroy it. So I mounted it inside the shifter. This will just be used for reverse lights and gear lights on the dash. The starter and NSS signal (to GM ECU) will come from the 4l60e NSS. This way there is no false signal for starting in gear by accident and it's robust for off roading.

I'll have to wait until I get the wiring in and truck running before I know if it's going to work but it almost goes through the entire throw so it should be ok.

 

[Garrett86]

Next I'm going to plumb the power steering lines (waiting on a -6an connector). Once I get that then it's time to put the rad in etc. so I can mount the trans cooler and power steering cooler. I'm avoiding the wiring lol but it's ready to plug in I just need a full day and clear head to tackle it.

 

[NeverFinis]

I like that milled aluminum block for holding the shifter cable. I designed and 3d printed a block to do the same.

I also used the same location for the GSS-3000.

 

[Garrett86]

I like that milled aluminum block for holding the shifter cable. I designed and 3d printed a block to do the same.

I also used the same location for the GSS-3000.

thanks, Yeah it's the best spot for sure

 

[Garrett86]

Had some time to put the front end back together slightly. I need to mount the trans cooler and power steering cooler so I can make up the lines.

 

[Garrett86]

Throttle cable is stock toyota. I just made the bracket. Works good but pedal feels light. Have to see once it's running but might add a spring to the throttle pedal.