full floater head up (1 Viewer)

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landtank

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I thought that I'd post about my rear hub failure.

I was seeing some gear lube leak out of the end of the axle shaft and figured a typical seal failure.

What I found was one sheared dowel pin and 6 bent studs.

The studs were only hand tight and I'm thinking that the same situation we have seen on the lower knuckle studs happened here.

Things loosened some and that allowed enough play to create a problem.

I have new studs on the way and a used hub as I can't get the broken piece of dowel out.

I'll be locktiting them in with 271 from now on to combat the loosening.
 
Not a new issue. One of my rear axle shafts flew out as I was going up Hurrah Pass outside of Moab.

I had recently done a rear axle job and installed PP shafts, and the bugger loosened on me (after about 700 miles of off road and on road), and sheared all of the hub studs and the dowel pin.

CDan saved my ass by bringing up a rear hub to get me going again.

I have heard of others having issues with the FF rear after working on it.

-o-
 
I'm trying to visualize this. Can you post a photo?

the dowel pin pushes into the hub about 10mm. The piece that is still in there is less than that so it's below the edge of the hub. It's a hardened piece so there is no drilling it with conventional tools.
 
I remember reading about it also but never realized it was from loosening hardware.

Dan and I were talking about this a couple of months ago after my FF axle backed out on me. He was assuming that it was the PP aftermarket axle shaft that was the cause with incorrect machining with the holes on the flange that the cone washers go in to.

I was arguing in fact that the cone washers were not set into the flange correctly after torquing to spec. That, in fact, the nuts had loosened and allowed there to be play on the studs which eventually then backed themselves out after long miles on hard, rough terrain (which was what I was on for hundreds of miles after rebuilding the rear end).

It was part user error (mine) as well as not going back and being certain the nuts on the studs were torqued down good--including the bearing nut and the set screws.
 
right now I'm of the opinion the studs loosened on mine. This is the side where I've had multiple twisted axles so it has been apart quite a few time in a relatively short period of time.

Like I posted I'm lock titing my studs in place just as I do the knuckle studs.

We'll see what happens.
 
right now I'm of the opinion the studs loosened on mine. This is the side where I've had multiple twisted axles so it has been apart quite a few time in a relatively short period of time.

Like I posted I'm lock titing my studs in place just as I do the knuckle studs.

We'll see what happens.

I've been doing the same on the front hubs, lower knuckle hubs, and will be doing it on my rear hubs when I go back in this winter for the yearly repack.
 
There was an article I read, I can't remember where (and either it's not online or my search-fu is failing me) about a guy down in Aussie land who kept breaking something on his rear axle. I want to say he was shearing off the bolts, but I could be wrong.

Anyway, I remember he upgraded to 100 series parts, I think it was the studs. He had to drill and tap. Once he did that, the problem went away.

Am I remembering right? Would this be an option?
 
100 series in the US is a semi-floater. Wouldn't work.

Now the 105 in OZ is a full floater and they might get a different rear hub than the 80 series did here.

I'm going to check into this.
 
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Rick/Beno

This happened to me last year. I put some locktite on the studs, installed new cone washers, and nuts and they have held ever since. YMMV
 
Rick/Beno

This happened to me last year. I put some locktite on the studs, installed new cone washers, and nuts and they have held ever since. YMMV

When I installed the PP's, I also installed all new hardware--cone washers, washers, nuts and studs. What I did not do is go back in and make sure everything was torqued down correctly. That was my fault.

Locktite will be utilized when I go back in for the yearly rebuild this winter.

:)
 
While you guys were talking about the rear hub - has anyone found a replacement for the incredibly soft locking screws on that lock ring. They're Phillips screws IIRC, and reading this reminded me I wanted them out of there next repack.

I've always wondered a bit about those cone washers. Ever notice how they develop a 'ring' on them? I always worried that as they were reused and worn they could 'hook' on that ridge and not seat fully.

Now I'm wondering if the 'ping' I heard putting the truck in reverse yesterday was normal, or if I should check the 6 bolts. Guess I know what I'll be doing tomorrow - checking 24 rear bolts....

DougM
 
While you guys were talking about the rear hub - has anyone found a replacement for the incredibly soft locking screws on that lock ring. They're Phillips screws IIRC, and reading this reminded me I wanted them out of there next repack.

I've always wondered a bit about those cone washers. Ever notice how they develop a 'ring' on them? I always worried that as they were reused and worn they could 'hook' on that ridge and not seat fully.

Now I'm wondering if the 'ping' I heard putting the truck in reverse yesterday was normal, or if I should check the 6 bolts. Guess I know what I'll be doing tomorrow - checking 24 rear bolts....

DougM

It'll take you five minutes with the 12mm Doug.

In regards to the set screws, yeah, they totally suck. I have an entire set everytime just in case they bugger up. I've had to hammer on them before.

What has worked is an impact driver bit with a Phillips attached. I'll be doing that from now on.
 
Landtank, do you have the SST for the studs?

Dave
 
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You guys are now making me worry. I did not bother tighten up those bolts to specs, figuring as long as they are tight then they should be fine. I do recheck them and so far did not found any loose but I will check them again this weekend. So far I got 2000 miles on my rebuild.
landtank
is it possible that your failure can be attributed to something else (bearing races not seating correctly? bend axle ? ):hmm:
 
I still think a contributing factor is the aftermarket shafts.
 
I still think a contributing factor is the aftermarket shafts.
I would think more hardened shafts would have less flex in the plate and less chance to vibrate studs out. When I was rebuilding my rear that was the main reason to run backlash check on the hub to make sure surface that touches the plate on the axle spins with out the backlash.My thinking was that backlash there would loosen studs quickly.
 
The cone washers do not sit as deep in the aftermarket shafts (at least in the aftermarket examples I have seen) as they do in the factory shafts.
 
they get loose due to your wheel bearing needs to be tightened look at the oil leak as a sign telling you to fix it b4 it snaps all your bolts
i lost my ff axel 3 time or so in my old 75
i had to drill/ezyout the studs and drill out the dowls i ended up drilling in new dowls and had a toatal of 5 80 series use 8 mm one you are best hunting down 105 series ff studds and dowls as they are 10 mm so thats only 1mm each side so the do fits heaps of people in oz upgrade their 80 series and 75 series ltlle to 105 series bigger
IMG_0175.jpg
 

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