Fuel System Question

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mags

mags

10 Year
Joined
Aug 2, 2014
Threads
14
Messages
125
Location
Watertown, NY
Just finished converting to four wheel disc and decided that next up would be a carb rebuild (currently a Weber 32/36) as well as freshening up all the fuel lines and making steel lines where I can. I have a 1/75 2F motor in my truck. As I was looking things over I realized that I have what looks to be a 1/79-84ish fuel pump. Didn't know the newer style pumps worked with the older motors, but okay. I guess my question is should I bother building metal lines or just stick with the rubber ones on there? It seems to be working fine with the weber. I would kind of like to hook up a fuel return line off the weber though as I believe I saw in one of Weber Sarges posts that if you have the return off the Weber carb it eliminates the need for the fuel pressure regulator I currently have inline. Should I ditch the current pump and order the correct style? What would the advantages be?

IMG_0522.webp
 
the newer style works just so long as the spacer is used, and in your case is installed.
iirc the oem carbs used a return line right off the carb, the later carbs and pumps changed to having the return off the pump. you tank will have a return port on it, hopefully plugged off, that you can run the return on the pump back to. that port should be down on the side near where the suction port is.
 
Well I guess that makes it easier than running a return line all the way from the carb. I wonder if running the return line from there though will make my Weber still operate properly? Or will the fuel pressure reg still be necessary.
 
in all my years with webers, i've never needed a regulator. the time i did try a reg, it restricted fuel flow too much, making highway runs impossible.
making sure they are jetted right is the biggest thing. pretty sure i have the smallest or nearly smallest idle jets in mine.
 
brian said:
the newer style works just so long as the spacer is used, and in your case is installed.
iirc the oem carbs used a return line right off the carb, the later carbs and pumps changed to having the return off the pump. you tank will have a return port on it, hopefully plugged off, that you can run the return on the pump back to. that port should be down on the side near where the suction port is.
Click to expand...

how important is that spacer? i have this pump on my aisen carb. my 2Fis i think an 83, and i dont have this spacer and am currently working on getting the engine running after 1.5 years
 
Weber installs are all dependent upon the fuel pump and how hard the pulses hit the carb's inlet needle - the 2F pumps are pretty mild in most cases . If you have a pressure control issue the easiest way to deal with it (since you have a return at the tank) is to use a bypass filter between the pump and carb - the bypass filter from a Heep CJ series works good . Just keep it away from heat , such as the passenger side of the engine . When I built the setups specific to Cruisers , the carb inlet casting would have an added port that was restricted internally with a main fuel jet - this would bleed off the pressure without killing off the flow volume . BTW - the 32/36 is way too small for an inline 6 2F....
Sarge
 
Sarge. If I up that to the 38 would I still be able to use all the throttle linkages or would I need a whole new setup? Or what about troll holes carb?


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brian said:
very, like destroy the pump and possibly damage the cam shaft important.
Click to expand...
ok, glad i found this out before i tried to fire it up.

so does any one have the dimensions of this spacer so that i can get one made up?
 
There are "kits" that allow use of the oem linkage, and others that require the use of a cable.
I have a cable on my 40, and linkage on the 60. Both work equally as well.
 
Vossie said:
ok, glad i found this out before i tried to fire it up.

so does any one have the dimensions of this spacer so that i can get one made up?
Click to expand...

Probably still available new, at a dealer.
 
brian said:
Probably still available new, at a dealer.
Click to expand...

im in zimbabwe, it would be easier, and definitely cheaper to have one made.
 
mags said:
Sarge. If I up that to the 38 would I still be able to use all the throttle linkages or would I need a whole new setup? Or what about troll holes carb?


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Click to expand...
You may have to put the linkage arm attached to the throttle shaft on the old carb onto the throttle shaft of the new carb, the 32/36, 38, and 40mm all have the same shaft mounting.
 
Thanks Downey. Good to know. The truck runs and drives pretty well when warm right now. It does stumble a little bit in 1st though coming off idle at stops. I have a rebuild kit on the way for the 32/36. But I keep hearing that a larger carb is necessary for these motors. I may just spring for a new 38 and slap it on in place of the 32/36. Just a lot more money to drop on a truck that runs as is.
 
mags said:
Just finished converting to four wheel disc and decided that next up would be a carb rebuild (currently a Weber 32/36) as well as freshening up all the fuel lines and making steel lines where I can. I have a 1/75 2F motor in my truck. As I was looking things over I realized that I have what looks to be a 1/79-84ish fuel pump. Didn't know the newer style pumps worked with the older motors, but okay. I guess my question is should I bother building metal lines or just stick with the rubber ones on there? It seems to be working fine with the weber. I would kind of like to hook up a fuel return line off the weber though as I believe I saw in one of Weber Sarges posts that if you have the return off the Weber carb it eliminates the need for the fuel pressure regulator I currently have inline. Should I ditch the current pump and order the correct style? What would the advantages be?
Click to expand...

any chance you can measure what distance the spacer brings the pump off the block?
 
Spacer appears to be a little over 7mm thick. I believe it is made of hard plastic. SOR calls it a spacer/insulator so I guess that would make sense. Look here Page 028 Land Cruiser Fuel Pumps, Fuel Lines, Fuel Filters Don't forget the two gaskets on either side of the spacer as shown in the link. Hope that helps. On the link click the tab that says 1/79-8/87 pump. The link goes directly to the fuel line portion.
 
Honestly , the better choice is an original equipment carb - the Weber conversions on Land Cruisers leave a lot to be desired . The DGV series was never the right choice in my opinion and the kits are crap . I'd either source a good used oem unit and have it professionally rebuilt or get one from Trollhole - that's what I run here on my '77 .
Sarge
 
To expand on Sarges comments, here's my 2 cents:
(1) Evidently your Toyota fuel pump pushes approx. 5 p.s.i., and the Weber won't tolerate more than about 3 p.s.i., that is why the pressure regulator or return line.
(2) The reason Weber's are troublesome in off road terrain (bouncing) is because their float bowl is open directly to the throats of the carburetor, soooo when you bounce in off road terrain you bounce gas up out of the float bowl and directly into the throats of the carburetor (translation= engine floods and craps-out on every bump all day long).
 
I think returning what I have to original equipment would be tough and very expensive. I bought this rig with the Weber installed and everything desmogged. The PO had no parts that came with the truck so I have zero pieces of what looks to be a ton in emissions plus air cleaner setup, etc. That said the trollhole option looks okay. I don't know if that requires a bunch of the crap I just talked about, but from reading the vendor forum posts it sounds like it might be just a quick swap with the purchase of a new air cleaner. Anyway I can't justify the expense over a Weber that works to return to stock. If the THC is a hot swap I will probably look that way.


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