Fuel/Speed/RPM/Battery Voltage gauge Non Functional

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Joined
Oct 13, 2025
Threads
2
Messages
14
Location
Tennessee
Hello Everyone! This is continuation from this thread where I had a crank/no start condition that was solved by repairing damaged wiring at the fuel pump. No-Start Unique Situation? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/no-start-unique-situation.1369933/#post-16141904

To recap the pertinent details for background on this issue.
First off, i went to unlock the truck with the “key fob” buttons and my fob battery was dead. Instead of replacing the battery in the fob, I went ahead and unlocked the car with my key and proceeded to turn the key to start the truck. 1st try was a strong crank with no start. 2nd try was a strong crank, but i noticed the smell of something (plastic, wire, other) burning and smoke coming from the drivers side air vent next to the door. 3rd try was strong crank with some smoke and a buzzing sound coming from the engine bay. Subsequent tries yielded a strong crank with no start, smell, buzzing, or smoke.

Next, I started looking for burned stuff. Nothing looked torched at the fuse box in the engine bay. There are what seems like a million wires and connectors on the driver side at the floor. Couldn’t see any apparent burn marks there either.

I bought the truck a year ago and didn’t know how old the battery was so i replaced it. The first time I tried to start after installing the new battery, I got the burning smell and smoke coming out of the dash above the steering wheel. After that, I have not gotten any smoke, buzzing or burning smell in subsequent starting attempts.

After fixing the fuel pump, the LC runs fine except the Fuel/Speed/RPM/Battery Voltage gauge don’t work while the truck is running. I will get a small pulse on the battery voltage gauge when cranking but it stops working when the LC starts. The fuel pump and temperature gauges work fine.

Yesterday I visually checked all of the fuses in the DS footwell panel. I continuity tested the 7.5 fuse because it looked kinda torched and the 15 fuse that is associated with the “gauge”. Both Passed
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I wanted to check continuity on the wiring associated with the “gauge” fuse. Any suggestions on how to do that? I am concerned i might have a shorted wire somewhere, and it seems like a daunting task to try and find it.
 
Well. I replaced the two fuses circled above. Still nonfunctional.

Next I removed the instrument cluster/combination meter, and found where the burning smell was coming from (see pic below).

I installed a jumper across the bad section (see pic.) The Speedo and RPM gauge and odometer are now functioning again, but the voltmeter and fuel gauge are not. I noticed a damaged resistor (image IMG_5113) R100. Does anyone have the specs on this resistor? I can’t help but feel like this resistor might be affecting the two non-functioning gauges.

I guess the easy fix here is to replace the whole combination meter, but i don’t want to lose my odometer. I only have 198K miles on the LC. I am assuming the odometer reading is stored in the computer chip on the damaged board.

I’ll keep updating..

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There's a listing on ebay. Of a guy that fixes combo meters and reset mileage.

I see aftermarket wires, under your dash. 9 out of 10 times, when I see that. It's those hack jobs, causing shorts.
 
There's a listing on ebay. Of a guy that fixes combo meters and reset mileage.

I see aftermarket wires, under your dash. 9 out of 10 times, when I see that. It's those hack jobs, causing shorts.
Do you happen to know the listing? I don’t want to get scammed
 
No, I've never used anyone. To fix or reset mileage. Some in mud have, search for them. Also read reviews on whomever you consider using.
 
Well I have tried finding a vendor to repair my combination gauge. 2/3 vendors (modulemaster and circuit boards medics) said they cannot repair the meter. The third (UpFix) says they aren’t sure, but i can up to $800 to give them a try. Really Disappointed. I don’t mind buying a new meter, but losing my odometer reading would really stink. Anyone got another suggestion?
 
Well. The only vendor that would look at in detail was Upfix. They responded that the meter could not be repaired. I guess I have to find a new combination meter.
 
I think 2001LC was right. When i got my combination meter back, just for kicks, i re-installed the meter, but pulled the fuse for the stereo (I’m a boomer) and back up cameras. Tada!!!!!!! Gauges back up and running. I guess the jumper my son installed is working FOR NOW. I still need to find a new meter, but at least I can drive the LC in the meantime.

I am still worried about the loss of the odometer, so i took a pic of the odometer with the date/time meta data. Not sure if this will be good enough for a potential buyer in the future, but I am trying.
 
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