Front wheel bearing/hub assembly

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I have searched through dozens of threads and I can't find this so I'm posting a new one.
I was at the dealer yesterday getting a vibration checked out. I thought it was caused by the new driveshaft that was installed as part of that recall.
It turns out I had a front left side wheel bearing that went bad.
I only have 64k miles so I was a bit curious.
I asked for the old parts. What I got was the bearing assembly flange, a complete bearing, and just the inner ring of the 2nd bearing. Apparently they had to cut the other bearing apart to get it out.
Now I've looked at the fsm and all the pics posted here, as well as pics of new parts and I'm not 100% sure how this all goes together and what was tuck to what in my vehicle that caused the need to cut it out.
What I'd like to know, if anyone can explain it, or has pictures, is the following:
-how does the complete bearing assembly look like? The inside, th bearings, seals and other parts?
-how exactly does the bearing assembly get fitted onto the hub. What parts are fitted onto what parts. What is making contact?
-when you use a press to fit the bearing assembly onto the hub, what surface areas are you pushing together? So that you don't damage the bearings?

I've looked at the YouTube videos as well as the tutorials on this site, but none of them adequately illustrate how this all goes together.
I have plenty of experience replacing bearings in older vehicles, but not with vehicles that use pre assembled bearing assemblies that are pressed into the hub.
Thanks
 

BMThiker

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I'm on. My phone but will post something for you. When I'm back at my PC.
 

BMThiker

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First shot is what a complete unit bearing assembly looks like. I opted to buy a spare hub flange so that I can have a spare fully assembled hub in my kit at all times. Old and New here:

Hubs_frt_2010-07-05 (109).jpg


Here's what I had to do to separate the bearing from the flange. I didn't have a large enough bearing press tool at the time.

Hubs_frt_2012-06 (3).jpg

Here's what typically happens upon separation. You get a race that's still stuck on the flange tube. The first time I had mine done at the dealership they cut this part off and scarred the flange tube. That made it so much more difficult to remove the next time I pressed it off myself. Once I did get it off I polished out the scar from the cutoff wheel they had used.

Hubs_frt_2012-06 (4).jpg


Here's what the bearing separator looks like. I used it to remove the inner race. It is too small to use when the whole bearing is still on the flange, but it works fine to separate the inner race.
Hubs_frt_2012-06 (5).jpg

Hubs_frt_2010-07-05 (109).jpg


Hubs_frt_2012-06 (3).jpg


Hubs_frt_2012-06 (4).jpg


Hubs_frt_2012-06 (5).jpg
 

BMThiker

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Another caution if you plan to do this on your own. Don't forget to replace the 4 captured bolts before pressing the bearing assembly back on. (note first pic above)
 
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Thanks. I think this just confirms that I should buy a new bearing assembly plus new hub at the same time. And not worry about separating them. Also, there are some places that press it in for you.
 

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This is a set of photos I took when taking the hub off. You'll need to remove the black hub dust shield and use a 35mm impact socket to remove the wheel nut. A breaker bar or long tube over a socket handle is necessary.

Hubs_frt_2010-07-05 (106).jpg

Then use an OPEN ENDED 17mm wrench to loosen all 4 bolts holding the unit bearing/hub to the spindle. Not the box end of a gear-wrench as shown above. I only used the box end to crack the bolt. Once broken free, use the open end because these bolts don't back all the way out while the hub is still assembled. IF you back the bolt all the way out using the ratcheting box end you'll create quite a predicament for yourself.

Hubs_frt_2010-07-05 (107).jpg

You'll need a BFH to knock it loose enough to pull away from the spindle. Note there is a large (4-5") o-ring between these two surfaces. Retain it for reassembly or buy a new one.

Hubs_frt_2010-07-05 (110).jpg

This was the last one I separated a few months ago. The main bearing race cracked during the separation process in the press. Scared the be-jeeezzzusss out of me at the time.:whoops: At least this is the disposable part. Its the hub flange that you need to take care of (ie, don't F it up by using a cutoff wheel, die grinder).

Spindle_2013-06-08 (4).jpg

Spindle_2013-06-08 (4).jpg


Hubs_frt_2010-07-05 (107).jpg


Hubs_frt_2010-07-05 (106).jpg


Hubs_frt_2010-07-05 (110).jpg
 
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Delancy

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Looked at this, pondering for three hours not long ago.

Took to a mom and pop around the corner and he had both out in twenty minutes, using a press and a collections of attachments, I think homemade, but specifically for.

Best twenty bucks I've spent, second only to same shops pitman arm puller that had one I fought on an 80 box for two hours breaking two pullers, that he had off on thirty second, costing $5.
 

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FYI, if you are in need of replacing the front bearings, this is far and away the easiest and most cost efficient way.

Buy this complete assembly

And replace the whole unit. NO 20T press needed. NO cussing (well, except to get the axle nut off the end of the drive shaft). Once you get the caliper and rotor off, it's just the 4 bolts that hold the bearing unit to the spindle. The new kit includes the bolts, studs and everything.
 

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And customer service is pretty damn good too. I got this message (6pm), shortly after I placed the order (4:45pm).

Hi Rick,

By the way, I am waiting on my hub shipment from Japan so I gave you a TOYOTA OEM hub I purchased from a TOYOTA dealer. The hub alone cost me $175 and lists for $222.87 so I lost big $$$ on your assembly.
BluepitBearings.JPG

Andy Taylor
Email: Andy@bluepitbearings.com
Bluepitbearings.com
 
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I just started getting a growl on my front left. I plan to swap the whole hub assemblies as soon as I find time. Looks like a simple swap.
 

abuck99

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I just went to rockauto and got Beck/Arnley for $85. I don't do any crazy driving so I figured I'd give them a try.
Did you happen to notice what kind bearings (made in Japan?) were used in the beck/arnley kit?
 
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Did you happen to notice what kind bearings (made in Japan?) were used in the beck/arnley kit?
I do not know, but they seemed very high quality and are rated as OE quality.

The manufacturer says this "We sell both OEM & OE replacement. We procure products from various sources making sure that the products that go into the box are OE quality parts that match in fit, form, and function. But rest assured we have done the research and analysis to make sure that what is in the box, will fit on your vehicle and function as required. As a policy we cannot share vendor information with you as we have a number of vendors who contractually forbid us from identifying them because of their OE business." Which says to me they have high quality parts that may even be the same part, but they can't sell them as OEM.


I doubt they are timken quality, but for daily use and light offroading I trust them. Beck/Arnley generally sells pretty good parts and I have used them in the past for long duration without issues.
 
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I also have photos under my thread showing what they look like. They were over 10 lbs each and seemed nice.

 
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