front panhard rod replacment question
- Thread starter se13
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Don't disconnect the panhard while all 4 tires are on the ground and the vehicle frame is not supported. Bad things can happen fast. You can have the fronts on the ground as long as you have some jack stands under the frame taking weight off the axle.
Which bolt are you having problems with? I did mine a few weeks ago and if I remember right the impact made short work of them both.
Which bolt are you having problems with? I did mine a few weeks ago and if I remember right the impact made short work of them both.
Now that I think about it I may have had my springs out when I was replacing the panhard so that made bolt access easier. I remember the driver side being a bit of a pain but the passenger was easy access.
I could be wrong but if the panhard is disconnected while the full weight of the truck is on the axle there is not that much to prevent the vehicle from shifting to either side. You might be able to get away with it but I do not think it is recommended. I would wait for someone more knowledgeable than myself to chime in here. Imagine taking a stud wall with no cross bracing, putting a heavy load on top, and giving it a good push to one side.
I did my front and rear with truck on ground full weight, the radius arms will keep it from going crazy, my front was adjustable, with the truck on the ground it will self center. At least mine and buddies did pretty close. Worked for me. On the rear I just pushed on the tire with my feet while popping in the bolt it was real close.
Driver side is nut & bolt, passenger side is bolt with nut welded inside bracket..
The drag link can get in the way of the bolt on the passenger side, with the tires on the ground jack the chassis up tell you can get the socket on the bolt that it no need to hold the nut on the back side
As long as you only take one panhard off at a time you should be fine, in fact you my need that ratchet strip to get the last bolt in.
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^^^^
Right.
Trouble is....the bolt on the passenger side hits the tie rod before it can be completely withdrawn from the panhard mount.
Drivers side has no obstruction.
I lift the car 3-4” and support the frame (right behind the tie down points) on jack stands so the axles a little drooped out. It usually gives me enough room to get the passenger side bolt out without taking the tires off
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- #10
cool thanks, I think I'll go that route, wasn't sure if the whole rig needed to be lifted. Is there a nut that will drop from behind the passenger? Or is it a fixed thread? Appreciate the insight
The nut is welded to the backside of the bracket, so no need to worry there!
No problem! Good luck!
There are many ways to do this. I simply turned my front wheels to get the draglink out of the way of each bolt. The radius arms will keep the axle from going anywhere. A ratchet strap will allow you to align everything back up. I chock the rear wheels to prevent any extra front or backwards movement.
Do it with all four wheels on the ground.
Use a shallow 6 point docket and 6" extension and you can use an impact to get the PS off. The extension is right up against the drag link, but when it comes time to get the bolt out, steer it left or right (most likely right) to get the drag link to clear the bolt.
Change the bushings and drop it back in.
I was able to get the PS in and started, the laid under the truck and shook the truck left to right to get the DS to slip right in. Easy peasy.
Use PB Blaster a lot before you start. I would recommend anti seize on at least the PS bolt because if it rusts in, it breaks a weld.
Use a shallow 6 point docket and 6" extension and you can use an impact to get the PS off. The extension is right up against the drag link, but when it comes time to get the bolt out, steer it left or right (most likely right) to get the drag link to clear the bolt.
Change the bushings and drop it back in.
I was able to get the PS in and started, the laid under the truck and shook the truck left to right to get the DS to slip right in. Easy peasy.
Use PB Blaster a lot before you start. I would recommend anti seize on at least the PS bolt because if it rusts in, it breaks a weld.
More likely HEAT needed right on nut itself.
I used a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. And then heat it on an off for a couple minutes. Definitely helped for both my 80s
