yeah, agreed. They don't look like trim packers (Poly spacers)
From Japan to my garage: RHD UZJ100 LC- my first post and first Cruiser
- Thread starter frawstme
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- Thread starter
- #42
That's possible, I looked up the part number and here's a picture of the isolator
It doesn't look the same to me but there's definitely a chance that they're just destroyed after 26 years like all of my rubber bushings
- Thread starter
- #43
Knocked the sway bar end links out today after work, first time that I've done anything in this truck that didn't give me trouble
Opted to cut the bolts off with a angle grinder, had both links off in about two minutes
removed upper brackets too, sanded and rustolem'd the frame area
Same with the brackets themselves
Unfortunately didn't have the foresight to buy new bolts. Ran thread chasers through the frames and ran the bolts through thread cleaners to clear excess rust for when I replace these with new bolts later
I don't feel like the pic does justice for how bad of shape the old ones were in
done done
When I was under there and had the sway bar disconnected, I tried the trick of raising one side all the way up to remove the springs. I wanted to see what the condition of the surface above them were. Unfortunately my shocks max out and I couldn't get the springs off without removing the shocks
Seeing that I am never going to remove those shocks again I'm probably gonna take a different route and risk my life by picking up some spring compressors
Opted to cut the bolts off with a angle grinder, had both links off in about two minutes
removed upper brackets too, sanded and rustolem'd the frame area
Same with the brackets themselves
Unfortunately didn't have the foresight to buy new bolts. Ran thread chasers through the frames and ran the bolts through thread cleaners to clear excess rust for when I replace these with new bolts later
I don't feel like the pic does justice for how bad of shape the old ones were in
done done
When I was under there and had the sway bar disconnected, I tried the trick of raising one side all the way up to remove the springs. I wanted to see what the condition of the surface above them were. Unfortunately my shocks max out and I couldn't get the springs off without removing the shocks
Seeing that I am never going to remove those shocks again I'm probably gonna take a different route and risk my life by picking up some spring compressors
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If you unbolt the bottom shock mount as well, the spring will come out.
- Thread starter
- #45
Can you unbolt only the bottom bolt or do you have to loosen the top one first? I took the bottom bolt off but wasn't able to get the bottom of the shock off the diff. I didn't try using much more force because I figured the angle of the shock was making it feel like it was binded
That's just the tension of the shock pushing down. The bushings give you the leeway to remove the bottom of the shock from its post w/o removing the top and without damaging it. It is a little tough to get it back on the post once you're done pursuant to how good the shock is still pushing down.
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- #47
ah ok understood, so I just need to drop the diff all the way down and it'll be easier to remove them while they're fully extended. I will give that a shot tomorrow, I got the new insulators today.
on another topic I bought front brakes and rotors to do with my wheel bearings a few weeks ago. I never opened them and today found out that there's two styles of brakes and calipers available from the factory. Hoping I picked the right ones, I'm sure I'm outside return window
I've been noticing that while looking for front brakes myself...two different pad designs. At least that seemed to be the case as I was searching for EBC Green Stuffs. Cruiser Outfitters sells OEM and Aisin/Advics Rotors but don't have the Advics in stock right now. That's pretty much the most deviation acceptable, it seems, away from "Dealer" OEM. I've heard 200 Series guys talking up the PowerStop Z36 rotors and pads (which are available on RockAuto), but then I've heard Cruiser Techs having bad things to say about drilled and slotted rotors...stuff getting stuck in the holes and slots tearing up the rotors. So, personally I'm not going to take the risk on aftermarket.
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- #49
uh oh
I'm not gonna lie, I did absolutely no research. The rotors on my car are in horrible shape and I expect that they're the original ones from 26 years ago, I just figured anything would be better than what I have. I ordered some mid grade ones from rockauto. Both front and rear brakes and rotors along with hardware but no shims yet. I was going to pick up brake lines and shims OEM but I didn't think it would be any issue to go aftermarket with the brakes and rotors. Well I guess I'll see how it goes.
I drove the lc today, replacing the sway bars did not get rid of the squeek in the back end. Now with new rear upper control arms, sway bar links, and shocks, there's not much else that the squeeking could come from. I do have the insulators for the springs and I've got a set of frame bushings for the sway bars on the way, hopefully one of those two things take care of it.
If not, I guess it would have to be the body mounts or panhard bushings
Well, I'm just one opinion. I'm sure it'll be fine just might not last like OEM. You'll drive yourself crazy (and broke) shooting the parts cannon at every little creak and rattle...they're trucks, just turn up the tunes 
- Thread starter
- #54
I didn't get many pictures because I ran out of time, but I'll upload what I've got tomorrow once I finish the job. I had to paint multiple coats after sanding / wire brushing all the rust out and it did take me an exceptionally long time to get that second spacer off. They were 50mm spacers.
The parts diagram above is for my RHD landcruiser, it shows an isolator below the spring and above the spring (same part number)- mine did not have one below it. I'm wondering if the metal on metal contact is causing the squeeking that I've been complaining about, but the isolator that I bought does not fit there. @Trapper50cal I am a little weird about noises but to be fair I think that it's a bit embarassing and also the radio I have in the car right now can only play japanese reggae
I'm not a big fan of spacers, especially metal ones. My springs won't arrive for a few more months though, I'm not sure if I should put those back in or just ride low for a while. I don't mind not having the lift for now and adjusting my torsion bars down but I would worry that my tires would rub if I do that. I'll think on it some then put it all back together tomorrow
One thing that I'm unsure about is the spring differences, I got them mixed up when I was sanding and repainting. I don't remember which side the taller one was on. I'm reading on these forums "drivers side" but that's LHD vehicles. I wonder if it is reversed in the RHD models
I am too, just trying to help a brother out. I've been slowly training myself not to freak about every little creak.
- Thread starter
- #56
yesterday I went to inspect and replace my isolators (as you know), it ended up being a headache of a job. I wanted to take my sway bar off and deal with all the rust on it, so I did that,
But because of how much time I had taken, I ended up really half assing it
I sanded down + painted the springs and the spacers too. I decided to retain the spacers until my springs come in
There was a lot of rust on my frame where the spacer contacted it. The picture doesn't really do justice, it took a lot of time with th dremel and wire brush
But because of how much time I had taken, I ended up really half assing it
I sanded down + painted the springs and the spacers too. I decided to retain the spacers until my springs come in
There was a lot of rust on my frame where the spacer contacted it. The picture doesn't really do justice, it took a lot of time with th dremel and wire brush
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- Thread starter
- #57
Painted
Went ahead and did the bottoms too, although they weren't bad.
My sway bar isn't OEM, I didn't know til today. It's some JDM brand called SEV. Makes me regret buying new bushings because I'm betting they won't fit. Current bushings are blown out
It was infuriatingly difficult to get the springs back in with the spacers. It probably took me two hours of taking them off and squeezing them back in again until they were seated correctly. Everything is back together now, just waiting for a few parts to come in before starting my next project
so far these things have been done in the last few months. Theres a couple more big items for me but once I finish those I will be taking a break for a while, this has started to get expensive
Went ahead and did the bottoms too, although they weren't bad.
My sway bar isn't OEM, I didn't know til today. It's some JDM brand called SEV. Makes me regret buying new bushings because I'm betting they won't fit. Current bushings are blown out
It was infuriatingly difficult to get the springs back in with the spacers. It probably took me two hours of taking them off and squeezing them back in again until they were seated correctly. Everything is back together now, just waiting for a few parts to come in before starting my next project
so far these things have been done in the last few months. Theres a couple more big items for me but once I finish those I will be taking a break for a while, this has started to get expensive
| Oct 2023- Timing belt |
| feb 2026 - New inner and outter tie rods |
| feb 2026 - Power steering fluid flush |
| feb 2026 - Steering rack rebuild |
| feb 2026 - Valve cover gaskets |
| feb 2026 - Spark plugs |
| feb 2026 - Rear upper control arms |
| feb 2026 - Wheels and tires |
| feb 2026 - Fuel filter |
| feb 2026 - Air filter |
| feb 2026 - Oil change |
| feb 2026 - Battery |
| --I bought the car here-- |
| mar 2026- Front Differential flush |
| mar 2026- Front differential seals |
| mar 2026- Front CV axles |
| mar 2026- Front shocks (Dobinsons IMS) |
| mar 2026- Front upper control arms (SPC) |
| mar 2026- Front lower ball joints |
| mar 2026- Moonroof replacement and reseal |
| mar 2026- Front sway bar links |
| apr 2026- Transfer case service |
| apr 2026- Rear differential service |
| apr 2026- Steering Resevior |
| apr 2026- Rear shocks (dobinsons) |
| apr 2026- Front and rear wipers |
| apr 2026- Rear sway bar links |
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- Thread starter
- #58
I know this discussion was from a week ago but I wanted to let you know that the identifier is the inside stamp, if it starts with S13 or S14 it's the smaller calipers fit for 313mm rotors, stamped numbers above that are larger calipers fit for 319mm rotors. For JDM models it was an option, for US models it was based on trim level and package for earlier model years
Cool! Good to know!
- Thread starter
- #60
I'm stuggling to figure out which part fits my car. I have done a bunch of research but there's no definitive way to know my production date. There was a mid year change in these models and there's a ton of different parts that vary between pre august and post august, it's not the first time that I've run into this.
I got my original auction sheet and the original owner purchased the LC december of 2000. That means it's production date could have been between june to november. I was hoping that it was registered september or earlier so that there was no room for misunderstanding