From Japan to my garage: RHD UZJ100 LC- my first post and first Cruiser
- Thread starter frawstme
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- Thread starter
- #22
Good to know for future reference, but my lower ball joints are pretty much shot so I was replacing them anyways. The goal was to replace shocks, sway links, LBJ, UCAs, diffs, and diff seals all at once.
Not much went to plan though, I had a lot of struggles with stuck bolts. I ended up getting the knuckle off the LBJ by removing the shocks and links then dropping the suspension, hammered on it while wiggling it around
Honestly the thing that's been the biggest pain is pressing the LBJ. I rented a kit from autozone and the fitment just isn't that great. The one part that fits the lower half tends to open up and it doesn't press the LBJ evenly..then you have to pop it out and try again. It's more effective to just lift the arm and hammer the press tool from the bottom, but it is tiring and still takes a long time
I finished one side completely but after messing with the LBJ on the other side for a while I've decided to call it a day
edit:
omg i just watched this video and realized that my LBJ isnt pressed in all the way on the side that i finished. holy hell im going to have to take it all apart again
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- Thread starter
- #23
I got my UCAs, ball mounts, shocks, and sway bar links installed
Honestly it still sits the same but it rides way better. I'm bringing it in for an alignment tomorrow. My roof rack came in today, so I'll get the moonroof paint fixed on Sunday and install it then
Honestly it still sits the same but it rides way better. I'm bringing it in for an alignment tomorrow. My roof rack came in today, so I'll get the moonroof paint fixed on Sunday and install it then
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- Thread starter
- #25
Nothing exciting but some updates, I've been finding out that it has some issues
For starters the diff plug has more metal on it than I've seen previously and the fluid was basically sludge. Found that out when I was doing my CV axles, not sure of what level of seriousness this is yet. Rear diff and transfer case is next in line to check.
My moonroof leaks. It took me a bit to figure out what was causing it but I took it out and spend a significant amount of time sealing it
Unfortunately when I was reinstalling it, I sheared the mounting point off. Now it leaks worse than before
While I was up there I sanded off a nasty rust spot, and (poorly) repainted it after applying rust converter
For starters the diff plug has more metal on it than I've seen previously and the fluid was basically sludge. Found that out when I was doing my CV axles, not sure of what level of seriousness this is yet. Rear diff and transfer case is next in line to check.
My moonroof leaks. It took me a bit to figure out what was causing it but I took it out and spend a significant amount of time sealing it
Unfortunately when I was reinstalling it, I sheared the mounting point off. Now it leaks worse than before
While I was up there I sanded off a nasty rust spot, and (poorly) repainted it after applying rust converter
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- Thread starter
- #26
Then I decided to install the Prinsu rack, but ran into some problems. All of the bolts where a roof rack previously existed were cheap store bought bolts that were both locked tited and rusted to hell
I had a really hard time with this. I damaged the paint quite a bit, tried every trick I could. Ended up carefully drilling them out after failing with extractors
I got the roof rack in, which was fairly difficult. Unfortunately I really just don't like the way it looks on this car
I ended up removing and selling it lol. It just didn't look right to me
I bought a junkyard moonroof and installed it, so far that's held up well.
No pictures but I bought an alignment kit and got my toe / camber in line with where it needs to be. The kits a lot cheaper than an alignment and I know I have more work to do to the suspension, so I didn't want to pay for an alignment yet.
I'm waiting for parts to come in for the steering reservoir from Japan, and new bolts for my roof to replace the ones that I drilled out.
I need to find new drip channels, the old ones were destroyed when I installed the prinsu rack. I was hoping there was something aftermarket since the Toyota ones are so expensive but I haven't been able to find anything?
Edit: oh, and even though my toe is within 1/16th of an inch, my steering wheel is still cockeyed
I had a really hard time with this. I damaged the paint quite a bit, tried every trick I could. Ended up carefully drilling them out after failing with extractors
I got the roof rack in, which was fairly difficult. Unfortunately I really just don't like the way it looks on this car
I ended up removing and selling it lol. It just didn't look right to me
I bought a junkyard moonroof and installed it, so far that's held up well.
No pictures but I bought an alignment kit and got my toe / camber in line with where it needs to be. The kits a lot cheaper than an alignment and I know I have more work to do to the suspension, so I didn't want to pay for an alignment yet.
I'm waiting for parts to come in for the steering reservoir from Japan, and new bolts for my roof to replace the ones that I drilled out.
I need to find new drip channels, the old ones were destroyed when I installed the prinsu rack. I was hoping there was something aftermarket since the Toyota ones are so expensive but I haven't been able to find anything?
Edit: oh, and even though my toe is within 1/16th of an inch, my steering wheel is still cockeyed
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- Thread starter
- #27
I decided to get into my motor bay today to figure out rattling noises that have been driving me crazy lately. I found a bunch of disconnected crap
Then I found this:
It led into the drivers compartment where I found this disaster of a rats nest:
Started ripping things out, it got worse:
Clipping
Then I found this:
It led into the drivers compartment where I found this disaster of a rats nest:
Started ripping things out, it got worse:
Clipping
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- Thread starter
- #28
There was a ton of connectors down here that were disconnected, I have no idea what they're supposed to supposed to be attached to:
Ignored them for now. Continued removing wires and taps the best I could, started my car every few minutes to make sure I don't screw anything up. Was tedious. Everything removed
Put back together
Anyways, after all that still rattles
Ignored them for now. Continued removing wires and taps the best I could, started my car every few minutes to make sure I don't screw anything up. Was tedious. Everything removed
Put back together
Anyways, after all that still rattles
- Thread starter
- #29
I was looking at my rear shocks this morning to soak them with pb blaster in preparations for replacing them tomorrow.. the aftermarket exhaust though
The exhaust is like directly in the way..is this normal? I don't see any decent way to access that nut without removing the exhaust
The exhaust is like directly in the way..is this normal? I don't see any decent way to access that nut without removing the exhaust
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2003
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- www.socallandcruisers.com
This thread may help you with the shock removal: How to remove & install rear shocks & springs on the uzj100
- Thread starter
- #31
Appreciate it- im just doing the shocks this time (not the springs yet). Iill read through his guide when I get back home.
was wondering if the exhaust sits like that in other people's cars or if that's in the way just because mine is aftermarket. I'll try to find some stock pics on the forum
- Thread starter
- #32
I decided to hammer back my pinch welds to deal with the minor rubbing that I have + make new wheel wells as mine are cracked and in poor shape
Also found out why my antenna didn't work, it was disconnected. Anyways I doused the area in Rust-Oleum
Then started forming the wheel wells. My idea was to have extended wells and shape them with a heat gun
however I made a critical mistake by getting 1/8" plastic, my heat gun was not up to the task. I spent a lot of time trying to make it work before giving up and cutting back to the 8" wells
Unfortunately it didn't turn out how I wanted but it'll do its job and my wheels arent rubbing on lock anymore. I had real plans for 37s but now I'm probably gonna settle for 35s, can't imagine the cutting required for anything more than that
Also found out why my antenna didn't work, it was disconnected. Anyways I doused the area in Rust-Oleum
Then started forming the wheel wells. My idea was to have extended wells and shape them with a heat gun
however I made a critical mistake by getting 1/8" plastic, my heat gun was not up to the task. I spent a lot of time trying to make it work before giving up and cutting back to the 8" wells
Unfortunately it didn't turn out how I wanted but it'll do its job and my wheels arent rubbing on lock anymore. I had real plans for 37s but now I'm probably gonna settle for 35s, can't imagine the cutting required for anything more than that
That's great you were able to tackle all of that wirin mess. I've learned over the years that a lot of these JDM imports come with the most hack wirin jobs. I have a '98 VX Limited that also has that mess of wires under the dash. Most all of the wirin is for the toll tracker, aftermarket GPS for toll roads and a huge mess for the Viper alarm system.
As for why would we import a RHD, JDM LC? I did because it was way cheaper. I paid $19K for mine and it had 65,000 miles on it, no rust (except the tailpipe), Keeler Field wheels and mint, leather interior.
When I was lookin for USDM LC100s, I couldn't find anything with similar mileage or cleanliness and they were still way more than $19K. I would've opted for the 1HD, but nothin I was interested in was available at that time.
I currently have 96K miles on it and it's been a great rig. I've had to replace the alternator, battery, O² sensors and now my TPS is intermittently trippin out.
I'm sorry to hear about that rack scenario!
Here are a few pictures of mine, which one of the pictures shows how the stock exhaust goes over the rear axle.
Pyro
As for why would we import a RHD, JDM LC? I did because it was way cheaper. I paid $19K for mine and it had 65,000 miles on it, no rust (except the tailpipe), Keeler Field wheels and mint, leather interior.
When I was lookin for USDM LC100s, I couldn't find anything with similar mileage or cleanliness and they were still way more than $19K. I would've opted for the 1HD, but nothin I was interested in was available at that time.
I currently have 96K miles on it and it's been a great rig. I've had to replace the alternator, battery, O² sensors and now my TPS is intermittently trippin out.
I'm sorry to hear about that rack scenario!
Here are a few pictures of mine, which one of the pictures shows how the stock exhaust goes over the rear axle.
Pyro
- Thread starter
- #34
Super clean ride! Hell of a deal too, I definitely did not get a deal like that
but in my area this one was less than most, without me driving 6+ hours away- and the car was clean- Thread starter
- #35
I replaced my power steering reservoir, it was fairly easy except that I ordered the wrong one somehow
Just had to reuse the old bracket
I opted to just get hoses from AutoZone and boil them to shape, it turned out well
Then I installed the rear dobinsons shocks, I had a lot of trouble. They were rusted in there bad enough that even with bolt removed and the full suspension weight on them, they wouldn't drop. Removing the driver's side bolt by the exhaust was a pain too, I couldn't use heat because the fuel lines and my aftermarket exhaust takes up a lot more space than the factory exhaust. I found it a lot easier to get at by coming from the front side.
I sanded down all the rust, applied rust reverser, then Rust-Oleum undercoated
before and after
Just had to reuse the old bracket
I opted to just get hoses from AutoZone and boil them to shape, it turned out well
Then I installed the rear dobinsons shocks, I had a lot of trouble. They were rusted in there bad enough that even with bolt removed and the full suspension weight on them, they wouldn't drop. Removing the driver's side bolt by the exhaust was a pain too, I couldn't use heat because the fuel lines and my aftermarket exhaust takes up a lot more space than the factory exhaust. I found it a lot easier to get at by coming from the front side.
I sanded down all the rust, applied rust reverser, then Rust-Oleum undercoated
before and after
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- #36
The old shock bushings were destroyed
New ones installed:
honestly can't tell much of a difference in the ride, but haven't driven it much. Next on the list is to replace the sway bar bushings, I'm pretty sure that they're part of what's causing the squeeking noise in my rear end when I go over bumps
New ones installed:
honestly can't tell much of a difference in the ride, but haven't driven it much. Next on the list is to replace the sway bar bushings, I'm pretty sure that they're part of what's causing the squeeking noise in my rear end when I go over bumps
lookin good, great attention to detail
You're really getting after it! Kudos!
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- #39
Thank you both! Refreshing the suspension and fixing known issues has been my top priority ever since I picked it up.
Im planning on doing the sway bar end links in the next few days. I have ordered dobinsons springs but they won't arrive until June.. I was looking up there the other day though and I noticed this
Does this look stock? I can't tell if that is a spacer or not
I think I'm gonna drop the springs when I do the sway links, to clean that area out. There's a lot of squeeking going on and I'm having a hard time tolerating it lol
don't the factory springs have isolators? (to minimize metal on metal NVH concerns) that's what that looks like