Fridge or locker...

Air locker or ARB Freezer/Fridge

  • Air Locker

    Votes: 6 66.7%
  • Freezer/Fridge

    Votes: 3 33.3%

  • Total voters
    9

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Joined
May 3, 2004
Threads
161
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2,550
Location
Utah
So this weekend I was out with Wasatch Cruisers 4wheeling in my4Runner.
The rear end has been making some noise of late, but this weekend, esp after the run, its making even more noise.

The 4Runner is more my Expedition/Skiing/Biking/Camping/DD rig.
I have a 76 FJ40 that is well modified and I use that rig for rock crawling and as a summer DD.

Anyhow, I am going to be putting in an OME suspension here pretty soon, though I am looking at doing a read end rebuild as well.

The debate here is whether or not to put in an ARB Air locker. I haven't really needed a locker for this rig in the past, however, I would REALLY like to have a selectable locker for this rig.

Money is pretty tight though and I have been jonesing for an ARB Freezer/Fridge for a while. I camp *ALOT* and I think that the Freezer/Fridge will be nice. However, since the rear end will be rebuilt, perhaps I should take advantage of that and put in the locker...
 
"rear end is making noise" right?

Well, a year from now which would you rather be doing, restocking the cooler with ice for the beers to cool, or swapping out a 3rd member because you really wish you'd done the locker in the first place?

Pretty simple solution IMHO, get the selectable locker.
 
x3...
 
Go with a TRD elocker. You didn't say what gearing you need but they come in 4.10, 4.30 and 4.56. If any of those work then it's probably a bit cheaper than an ARB (assuming you do the install yourself).
 
elocker and a cheaper fridge freezer. I bought my fridge for $350 but got tight on cash and sold it fomoe than I paid. Don't get a aussie or lockright if you dd, it will drive you nits.
 
*FYI O/P has a '91 4Runner, which also means sway bar. You will loose the factory mount points when doing an e-locker, and would need to fabricate a couple of mount blocks to raise the mount if you wish to keep it there for streetability and faster speeds. **Why I am liking the ARB (which I'll do someday), besides, you get the benefit of on board air versus electric running, so in the end depending on what your time is worth you end up at or near the same expense.

I'm over the Aussie, and other lunch-box type lockers, at least until someone finds a way to make one you don't shear pins and tweak springs with daily driving usage.

Again, not to bang this drum too loudly, but selectable locker, period. Well worth the [STRIKE]expense[/STRIKE] investment.
 
I think you on-road far too much to have a pocket locker, PERIOD.

Do like others have said and wait for a TRD... If you're like me and H8 wiring or a more apt to fail point, cable lock it.

http://members.cox.net/vavp/trdconversion.htm

Downey is gone, but to be sure somebody makes a cable for it.

You need a selectable for the rear if you drive it a lot. If I was hell bent on it and had to have it though, you can get a locker for the front or put a Truetrac in the front.

It's not hard AT ALL to put a full case locker in as long as you're keeping the ratios the same.

You have to remove the carrier anyways to install most pocket lockers, just go one or two steps further and remove the ring. The hardest thing I think you have to do is put everything back the way it came apart and set the backlash...
 
*FYI O/P has a '91 4Runner, which also means sway bar. You will loose the factory mount points when doing an e-locker, and would need to fabricate a couple of mount blocks to raise the mount if you wish to keep it there for streetability and faster speeds. **Why I am liking the ARB (which I'll do someday), besides, you get the benefit of on board air versus electric running, so in the end depending on what your time is worth you end up at or near the same expense.

I'm over the Aussie, and other lunch-box type lockers, at least until someone finds a way to make one you don't shear pins and tweak springs with daily driving usage.

Again, not to bang this drum too loudly, but selectable locker, period. Well worth the [STRIKE]expense[/STRIKE] investment.

The Spartan locker by USA gear seems to take care of the weak pins and poor spring design problems. I picked one up, but only time will tell how it holds up.

The pins are larger, and the springs seat inside of the pins. They also include a new cross pin, so you do not need to rely on a used stock pin.
 
I've been running a lock-rite in the rear of my FJ40 for years now and I haven't had a problem with shearing pins or any of the 'negative' effects of an autolocker. That said when I regear that rig, I am going to put a full carrier detroit in the rear and an ARB up front.

This rig is a DD and will remain on stock 31" tires for the forseeable future.

As far as the e-locker argument goes, I did consider that. My truck does not have a rear sway bar any more (I broke it and removed it, haven't missed it). however, I have 4.56 gears and most of the e-lockers I have found are 4.10 or 4.30. I haven't come across any that were 4.56. That said, for the extra time and effort needed to put one in, I'd honestly *MUCH* rather spend the extra time working OT to get the ARB. Also from what I gather the 3rd gen 4Runners use an entirely different link suspension than the 2nd gen, so I can't simply swap housings.

I do alot of camping, usually 2-3 times a month, with week long trips to the desert. I wanna set my 4Runner up with a solar panel to power the fridge. Again, this rig isn't a 'core rock crawler. But a selectable locker option woudl be Fkna.
 
Don't get a aussie or lockright if you dd, it will drive you nits.

I disagree.

Hell I sometimes dd my wheeling rig and if there is snow on the ground and im in 4wd then im auto locked front and rear, its no big deal.
 
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