Builds "Frank" 1989 hj61 (1 Viewer)

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Got some roof racks for the ol boy. Great weight capacity and much more economical than buying Thule new.

Product: rhino racks

Use the truck for a daily and work vehicle. These roof racks have a bunch of accessories for ladders, pipes, etc.

I'll get some good use outta them.
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Through the bumper exhaust, very cool.
 
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Love your rig. The exhaust is great.
 
My dream Cruiser. Loving the pics. What camera do you use? Didn't know it but I've been following your Instagram for sometime now ha
 
Looks like you could use some new(ish) running boards. I happen to know where there is a used pair for sale!;)
 
My dream Cruiser. Loving the pics. What camera do you use? Didn't know it but I've been following your Instagram for sometime now ha

Haha awesome! Use a canon 30d. iPhone when I'm lazy and a go pro as long as the battery lasts.
 
Looks like you could use some new(ish) running boards. I happen to know where there is a used pair for sale!;)

Those are on the way out for sure. Once I can get some decent sliders I'll toss those. For now...there just paint protectors.
 
Hj61 1989 vibration help

Having a problem...vibrations at 100kms.

Once again I have an auto. Long story short, as short as possible.

This vibration at a 100 is when the gas pedal is on. In action. At the speed of 100 (giver take 5) I can be at the speed of 100 and release the gas pedal -result - vibrations stop. Smooth sailing. Once I'm at 120 the vibration is there but not as loud. I can cruise comfortably at 130. Strange right!?

Here's a check list:
-U joints - good
-rear Drive shaft - balanced and angles are good
-front drive shaft? Forgot about that one... Checked soon
-Tires- balance
-Alignment - good
-engine mounts - good
-front end - good(rebuilt and to spec)

Was told to check my rear diff. But if something was wrong in the rear diff then would it not have a similar vibration the whole time?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Having a problem...vibrations at 100kms.

Once again I have an auto. Long story short, as short as possible.

This vibration at a 100 is when the gas pedal is on. In action. At the speed of 100 (giver take 5) I can be at the speed of 100 and release the gas pedal -result - vibrations stop. Smooth sailing. Once I'm at 120 the vibration is there but not as loud. I can cruise comfortably at 130. Strange right!?

Here's a check list:
-U joints - good
-Drive shafts - balanced and angles good
-Tires- balance
-Alignment - good
-engine mounts - good
-front end - good(rebuilt and to spec)

Was told to check my rear diff. But if something was wrong in the rear diff then would it not have a similar vibration the whole time?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Could be a bad output bearing on transfer case, or pinion bearing on diff if all above checks out.
Is there any metal shavings or metal deposits on the magnetic drain plugs?

Also, is exhaust secured, not wandering or making contact when engine revs and tilts/moves?

Sent from my SM-G388F
 
Diff was pulled apart yesterday. Spider gear has so much play. Good thing There's an arb locker going in there!
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Could be a bad output bearing on transfer case, or pinion bearing on diff if all above checks out.
Is there any metal shavings or metal deposits on the magnetic drain plugs?

Also, is exhaust secured, not wandering or making contact when engine revs and tilts/moves?

Sent from my SM-G388F

Thanks for the input! Helps to make sure things weren't over looked when people chime in. Appreciate the time and post.
 
I was wondering if clutch fan/water pump is coming into play. I had a tire also that wasn't quite seated, and in the end
was defective, but I had a tire shop re-balance all my Toyo MT's in a most OCD manner. It did make a difference. It cost me
a bit, but was worth it. If you run BFG A/T's and are mucking with air pressure I have a history of the belts separating so
I don't use them anymore.
I was going to say pinion bearing, but looks like you are in the rear now.
Just ideas, J
 
I was wondering if clutch fan/water pump is coming into play. I had a tire also that wasn't quite seated, and in the end
was defective, but I had a tire shop re-balance all my Toyo MT's in a most OCD manner. It did make a difference. It cost me
a bit, but was worth it. If you run BFG A/T's and are mucking with air pressure I have a history of the belts separating so
I don't use them anymore.
I was going to say pinion bearing, but looks like you are in the rear now.
Just ideas, J

J thanks for the input. If the problem persists I'll check into those.

I'll be getting a new set of tires soon. I'm looking at truxs mts or ko2's.

Senses is the truxs are a hard tire to balance and as this is my dd, I'm leaning towards the ko2's.

Next thing to do after the arb will be to shorten the rear drive shaft and get the cv type in there.
 
I know they cost, but I'm a huge fan of the Toyo MT's. 45000 kilometers, just got back from doing the Dempster and N Canol with
no issues whatsoever. I had KO2's and now I don't, but its my opinion anyhow. The Toyo's were a bit of a bugger to balance, I have to
admit.
 
I know they cost, but I'm a huge fan of the Toyo MT's. 45000 kilometers, just got back from doing the Dempster and N Canol with
no issues whatsoever. I had KO2's and now I don't, but its my opinion anyhow. The Toyo's were a bit of a bugger to balance, I have to
admit.

Toyo's I have heard great things about. The KO's were above and beyond my high expectations. I guess I was hoping that with the improvements made they would be better than the KO's.

The amount of snow and sheer ice i travelled on last winter put the KO's to the test and performed very well. Had another truck with geolanders that faired way worse. I seem to get out more in the winter than summer. So again based on my experience with old model bfg's and i have high hopes for the KO2's.
 

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