FR Tank Installed - the Good and Bad - No Ugly
- Thread starter Kigiin
- Start date
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You watch too many movies. Tap = lightly = no spark.
or use a brass drift if you're paranoid.
do it before install!
Dual tanks will come for me after dual batteries...
AU spec air box?? Like what mooooo has
no, slee 2nd battery tray.
Of course you want to be cognizant of that concern, and take precautions to prevent that from happening. If lever of some type would be more appropriate, then go that direction. The force I am speaking of would not be any more of an issue than our common use of a metal filling nozzle being put in the same area. It is metal to metal in both cases, but not severe enough to generate a spark.
Cheers,
Cheers,
- Thread starter
- #46
Well I should have done this at install time. My mechanic wanted to do something then, but I suggested we wait until we saw how it operated. I still haven't fully tested it, in terms of seeing how long it takes to transfer 20 or so gallons (taking your suggestion of when the fuel light comes on).
But like you said, as long as it's faster than the engine's consumption, then what's the difference.
But like you said, as long as it's faster than the engine's consumption, then what's the difference.
- Thread starter
- #47
Just an FYI for anyone interested, I transferred gas from the aux to the main when the gas light came on. It took 45 minutes to fill up to a point where the gauge was just barely above the full mark.
I am guess that was about 19 gallons transferred (5.5 gallons was still in the main tank and probably another gallon or so to max the gauge out). So the pump does about 24 gallons an hour.
I am guess that was about 19 gallons transferred (5.5 gallons was still in the main tank and probably another gallon or so to max the gauge out). So the pump does about 24 gallons an hour.
Just saw your very clear photos. I recommend you perform some major anti-rust service on ALL the underside. There appears to be major metal loss on the horizontal support bracket to which the tank is attached. I have found LPS #3 to be an excellent product that is very easy to apply and reapply as necessary, and provided 2-4 years complete protection on open areas, forever in cavities. It is wax based and really works great. Will avoid costly rust damage.
I too have some small rust problems that I would like to take care of. Where do you find LPS#3? Sorry for the hijack peg.
His username is grey now so......
posted two threads in chat that apparently werent liked by the mod there. He'll be back, its not a perma-ban.
Does anyone have a copy or pdf of the instructions this tank comes with? I have the tank but no instructions. I'm sure I could figure it out but it wouldn't hurt Im sure!
Holy fast replies. Got the email. Thanks petr!
So just to add to this thread... I finally installed my tanks this weekend:
1. The fuel pump doesn't work. I'l sourcing another from Summit racing that hopefully will fix the issue.
2. The rear brackets for my tank were all messed up as well. I had to drill new holes for the one and cut and weld the other as it was orientated the wrong way. I did notice your brackets sit with the horizontal portion towards the top which raises the tank a little. I couldn't get mine to fit in that direction and had to mount them with the horizontal portion towards the bottom with the tank resting on top of them. Maybe it take away another 1" or so of ground clearance at most. not ideal but i couldn't figure out another way
3. The fuel filler neck sucks. I tried to trim down the vent tubes a bit but I'm with you, there is just too much going on in that area for it to fit properly. Did you ever order a Toyota neck? I'm thinking I'm going to but I can't decide if I should get the 100 series or the 80 series. I'd prefer the 80 series with the valve but not sure if it will fit. Regardless I'll be welding in a small tube into the main line fill tube for the transfer hose to connect to.
1. The fuel pump doesn't work. I'l sourcing another from Summit racing that hopefully will fix the issue.
2. The rear brackets for my tank were all messed up as well. I had to drill new holes for the one and cut and weld the other as it was orientated the wrong way. I did notice your brackets sit with the horizontal portion towards the top which raises the tank a little. I couldn't get mine to fit in that direction and had to mount them with the horizontal portion towards the bottom with the tank resting on top of them. Maybe it take away another 1" or so of ground clearance at most. not ideal but i couldn't figure out another way
3. The fuel filler neck sucks. I tried to trim down the vent tubes a bit but I'm with you, there is just too much going on in that area for it to fit properly. Did you ever order a Toyota neck? I'm thinking I'm going to but I can't decide if I should get the 100 series or the 80 series. I'd prefer the 80 series with the valve but not sure if it will fit. Regardless I'll be welding in a small tube into the main line fill tube for the transfer hose to connect to.
Doesn't work. Has power to it when I flip the switch, ground is good. Just won't turn on
Turns out the pump worked, the power connection wasn't great. I ended up replacing it with a better quality pump anyways.
Everything works... Sort of. The fill line for the aux tank has a kink in it and fuel spits back out when you try to fill it. But what I was able to get some in there and it transfers fine
I have a OEM filler neck from japan on its way, hoping that will fix the problem. Unfortunately it means I basically have to re do the entire install. But at least I've had practice!
Everything works... Sort of. The fill line for the aux tank has a kink in it and fuel spits back out when you try to fill it. But what I was able to get some in there and it transfers fine
I have a OEM filler neck from japan on its way, hoping that will fix the problem. Unfortunately it means I basically have to re do the entire install. But at least I've had practice!