For those who have replace the stock roof rails… (3 Viewers)

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Did you use a sealant on the bolts/bolt holes to prevent leaks? I read on a taco forum Lexel is a good product to use but I wanted some feedback from member here.
 
I installed my dissent roof rack a few weeks ago. I used a total of 4ml of RTV (for all of the holes combined) around the outside of the holes and on the bolt threads. I also used butyl tape on each of the "feet" for the new rack.
 
I installed a prinsu rack and used permatex number 2 sealant on the bolts with zero leaks. I live in Florida where it rains all the time. A leak is the last thing I want.
 

Post #39 by @Taco2Cruiser
 
I have a Gamiviti rack and it was recommended to use DAP Dynaflex Ultra...no leaks and super easy to use!

DAP.png
 
I used 3M Clear Super Silicone Seal after doing a bunch of research. It is "excellent for general purpose bonding and sealing, as well as formed-in-place gasketing applications". Read more to see why it is perfect for this application. You can find 3oz tubes if you look around.
 
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I’m planning on using Loctite blue threadlocker for the bolts to prevent backing out.

Thanks all for the suggestions.
 
I’m planning on using Loctite blue threadlocker for the bolts to prevent backing out.

Thanks all for the suggestions.
Might be late too late on this one but I would not recommend that. Locitite is literally the root cause of any/all "nuts fell into the roof" stories that you hear about. Specifically one bolt gets removed, then the other gets twisted, and the path of least resistance is the whole nut carrier thing popping free and spinning, rather than the bolt coming loose. the way to avoid the issue is alternate between the 2 bolts on each tower, back them out evenly then it's never been an issue. But your new bolts will be under load from a rubber sealing washer, surrounded by some type of sealant, they really shouldn't magically back out somehow.
 
Might be late too late on this one but I would not recommend that. Locitite is literally the root cause of any/all "nuts fell into the roof" stories that you hear about. Specifically one bolt gets removed, then the other gets twisted, and the path of least resistance is the whole nut carrier thing popping free and spinning, rather than the bolt coming loose. the way to avoid the issue is alternate between the 2 bolts on each tower, back them out evenly then it's never been an issue. But your new bolts will be under load from a rubber sealing washer, surrounded by some type of sealant, they really shouldn't magically back out somehow.
Thanks for your advice, especially the video you posted on YouTube regarding removing the bolts. I did end up using the blue locktite on the new screws, and I guess this is down to paranoia from when I used to race bikes. Obviously track conditions are more demanding than the street but considering the process you outlined in the video worked so well I was ok with re-applying the threadlocker.

Anyways, thanks again for posting that vid, I wouldn't have attempted the swap if it wasn't for it.
 

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