For John. N74L vs N101

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Well, I wheeled my 100 for the first time today and I will gladly say that it is a fawking WHALE on the trail.

A supercharger, open diff 80 was in front of me and made me look like a dope.

I have TRAC and an ARB locker and the 80 kicked my ass.

That said, GregB did much better than I did in his 100 with no rear locker and TRAC only........wait, he also runs "L" shocks.....

The funny thing is, this is a great car for camping and hauling the family around on the bunny slopes, but it has no business on anything that I was doing today (Fins and Things 3+ rating)

The TRAC feels like the front end is going to fly apart every time it starts doing its thing. I think a Locker would be MUCH less stress on the front end than all that crap going on.

This thing is 3X heavier than my buggy and it is so evident. I cannot believe you guys actually like wheeling these beasts on the rocks. It is laughable.

That said, on everything but the verticals and the really rough stuff, it is an amazing ride for the family.

It towed my 2500# buggy and 1000# trailer out to Moab with ease. Averaged 8mpg and that is fine with me. $450 to get to Moab from Ft Worth in style. It never kicked down below 70mpg and never once went into 2nd gear on the hills.

I took it up to the mean ledge 3/4 of the way up Moab rim tonight just to watch the sunset and see the river. I did not slip a tire on all the stuff up to the ledge. There I turned around since I was alone with the family. (others were out there, I just did not know them)

In summary, the reason I post these observations here is that it is so funny that John and others want to make the 100 a rock machine.

What you guys see as hardcore in your wagons is just a small speedbump in the world of rockcrawling.

The 100 is not a rockcrawler and never will be. Enjoy it for what it is, a fine ride that will haul you and the family over unimproved surfaces in style and in comfort and get you back home without a tow from AAA.

Looking forward to Hells Revenge tomorrow.

CYA.
 
Where are the pics of the 100 in action !!??

I need my fix :D
 
wngrog said:
Well, I wheeled my 100 for the first time today and I will gladly say that it is a fawking WHALE on the trail.

A supercharger, open diff 80 was in front of me and made me look like a dope.

I have TRAC and an ARB locker and the 80 kicked my ass.

That said, GregB did much better than I did in his 100 with no rear locker and TRAC only........wait, he also runs "L" shocks.....

The funny thing is, this is a great car for camping and hauling the family around on the bunny slopes, but it has no business on anything that I was doing today (Fins and Things 3+ rating)

The TRAC feels like the front end is going to fly apart every time it starts doing its thing. I think a Locker would be MUCH less stress on the front end than all that crap going on.

This thing is 3X heavier than my buggy and it is so evident. I cannot believe you guys actually like wheeling these beasts on the rocks. It is laughable.

That said, on everything but the verticals and the really rough stuff, it is an amazing ride for the family.

It towed my 2500# buggy and 1000# trailer out to Moab with ease. Averaged 8mpg and that is fine with me. $450 to get to Moab from Ft Worth in style. It never kicked down below 70mpg and never once went into 2nd gear on the hills.

I took it up to the mean ledge 3/4 of the way up Moab rim tonight just to watch the sunset and see the river. I did not slip a tire on all the stuff up to the ledge. There I turned around since I was alone with the family. (others were out there, I just did not know them)

In summary, the reason I post these observations here is that it is so funny that John and others want to make the 100 a rock machine.

What you guys see as hardcore in your wagons is just a small speedbump in the world of rockcrawling.

The 100 is not a rockcrawler and never will be. Enjoy it for what it is, a fine ride that will haul you and the family over unimproved surfaces in style and in comfort and get you back home without a tow from AAA.

Looking forward to Hells Revenge tomorrow.

CYA.

Couple of thoughts:

Sounds like you're having fun! That's good!

How is your 100 set up? Tires size? Lift? Etc.? I ask because Fins was a no-challenge trail for me in the 100. Golden Spike was easier than many things I run out here. I'm confused (not confrontational :) )?

As far as a rock crawler? Everybody seems to have a different idea what "rock crawling" is. In my book, a 100, an 80, a 60m and 55's are not rock crawlers. Your buggy is, a Jeep Wranger is, a small-ish type of built vehicle with shorter wheelbase is, etc.

The 80 that made things look easy? Was it triple locked and/or have more lift than you? I can tell you from years of experience in both rigs that the 100 handles almost every obstacle just as easily, except where it's added size comes into play. In Moab, the 100 made just as easy a work as the 80's, though my longer overhangs forced me to approach the ledges a bit different. Some rigs with taller lifts offered a better breakover...though that came into play on only one ledge that I can remember.

I'm very curious about the condition of your 100?
 
Darren,
Clear out some of your PM's...your box is full ;)
 
Imola Red- you're still a relative newbie on the forums, so maybe you should go back and read some of Shott's previous posts to get some context on why he's so controversial.

ats4x4dotcom is a 4x4 shop in Australia- they have a lot of experience fixing the A-Arm cracks on the diesel 100s, among other things. Sleeoffroad is one of the premiere Cruiser shops in the US. Both have been trying to explain the 74L mod to Shotts for quite a while, and they have not been getting through. Why?

If you read through previous posts by Shotts, you'll see a pattern of John's OCD with getting in the last word, even after literally hundreds of posts, and even after he has been proven wrong time and time again by the experts on the forum. And YES, Sleeoffroad and ats4x4dotcom (among others, like Robbie/powderpig) ARE experts. Spend enough time on the forums and you'll realize the background various people and companies have in the Cruiser world. You'll also realize that Shotts has a reputation among more than just "a select few" people on the forum, and he has this reputation for a reason. The reason why you don't see more "Shott's is wrong" posts these days is because:

1. He's on many peoples' ignore lists
2. Many more just don't bother responding anymore


Imola Red said:
Wow....

some of you guys need to get a life.

Notice how nobody here has a problem with John or what he's saying except for the SAME people over and over and over...... and BLAH!!

Grow up.

Until you actually provide some worth at all on this forum ats then why should anybody listen to you? All you do is just come on here and argue the opposite of everything John say's (here comes the quote of what I just said by you replying "because John is always wrong"). It get's old. Who cares if he's not always right or if he is. Who made you the know it all?

Give it up and stop ruining this forum with crap.
 
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alaskacruiser said:
Imola Red- you're still a relative newbie on the forums, so maybe you should go back and read some of Shott's previous posts to get some context on why he's so controversial.

ats4x4dotcom is a 4x4 shop in Australia- they have a lot of experience fixing the A-Arm cracks on the diesel 100s, among other things. Sleeoffroad is one of the premiere Cruiser shops in the US. Both have been trying to explain the 74L mod to Shotts for quite a while, and they have not been getting through. Why?

If you read through previous posts by Shotts, you'll see a pattern of John's OCD with getting in the last word, even after literally hundreds of posts, and even after he has been proven wrong time and time again by the experts on the forum. And YES, Sleeoffroad and ats4x4dotcom (among others, like Robbie/powderpig) ARE experts. Spend enough time on the forums and you'll realize the background various people and companies have in the Cruiser world. You'll also realize that Shotts has a reputation among more than just "a select few" people on the forum, and he has this reputation for a reason. The reason why you don't see more "Shott's is wrong" posts these days is because:

1. He's on many peoples' ignore lists
2. Many more just don't bother responding anymore

And you my friend obviosly do not have a clue in what you're discussing in this thread.

1. Slee did not come up with the idea of re-fitting the N74L onto a 100. It was my idea based on my experience with my 80 and 100. You don't have to be a techno-whizzard to come up with a good idea.

2. Nobody (Slee/ATS) has to explain anything to me about the mod. It's tried and tested and a huge success. That's what matters. And that's why many are now fitting this. You don't have to have a PhD to know a Cruiser can wheel. Just drive one. You don't have to be "a Slee" to tell my truck is hugely improved with the shock change. Kapish?

And as for Slee and ATS always being correct? I have much regard for Slee and I buy my gear from him. You seem to confuse the techy talk with the real-life result. The real-life result is that the N74L swap shock was my best idea yet. If Slee or ATS wants to dispute the benefits, they will be proven wrong in a big hurry. Just ask ANY 100 owner who has the old and now the new N74L shock setup. Read Calamaridog's real-life witnessing of my truck vs his.

I welcome you to add me to your ignore list if you like. You won't learn anything from me unless you buy a 100 someday. When you do, you just might take me off your list. Meanwhile, please speak of the facts of the thread rather than your "smack" towards me.

When you own and have expeirence with the 100-series, post up. Meanwhile, don't mislead newbies wanting to improve their 100's. Thanks!

Also feel free to PM me should you want to get certain feeling off your chest.
 
Wow, interesting how you can see a splinter in your brothers eye John, and cant see the log jammed in your own.


Alaskacruiser did sum up the thread, and your opinions very succinctly though from where I sit, because no one said .6" of extra travel wouldnt be worse, and like I have said, we have been using longer shocks than the N74L for years, without bump stop spacers, so you get the full benefit, its simply the way some of these things are portrayed by someone who is mechanically bankrupt, and admits they dont care, that can be extremely misleading to those who dont know any better.

At least the niave can learn though, which is why some of us persist to show where, and why your wrong, John, because the only thing worse than no idea, is the wrong idea.
 
ats4x4dotcom said:
Wow, interesting how you can see a splinter in your brothers eye John, and cant see the log jammed in your own.


Alaskacruiser did sum up the thread, and your opinions very succinctly though from where I sit, because no one said .6" of extra travel wouldnt be worse, and like I have said, we have been using longer shocks than the N74L for years, without bump stop spacers, so you get the full benefit, its simply the way some of these things are portrayed by someone who is mechanically bankrupt, and admits they dont care, that can be extremely misleading to those who dont know any better.

At least the niave can learn though, which is why some of us persist to show where, and why your wrong, John, because the only thing worse than no idea, is the wrong idea.

That's great that you've been using longer travel shocks for years. Here in the US, it wasn't happening. The best thing you can do is to start your own thread about what you are doing. That will actually help folks rather than your continuous rambling about how stupid I am. DM....others have confirmed my results. No need to dispute it any longer.

This thread isn't about you and Aussie options. If you have an even better solution, post up in a new thread. Some might opt for that route.

This one's about the N-series shock compared to the L-series. And to clear the air for the readers:

With a 33" tire, GregB has proven the mod to add 2.1" more travel than the 100 shock.
With a 35" tire (bump-stopped to reduce rubbing), I have shown a 2.6" travel increase and even more articulation. With the 35" tire we are at the travel limit from what we can see. The compressed tire rubs the frame in about a 6" section, touches the shock and sway bar, as well as the Slee aftermarket bumper. I could lower my bump stops to the 1/2" mark to increase up-travel, though as stated...we're out of room as we're rubbing everything.

It'll take much more work to add additional travel over this setup.
 
SALEH said:
ShottsUZJ100i changed from N101 to N74L its better very much in Ride i like the Damping effect its really stroger but in case N74L should give me more Angel for rocking do i need to change my sway bar to get more angel ????

Excellent! Glad you're happy! We've found here that you should lower your rear bump-stops by either 0.5" (33-inch tire) or 2" (35-inch tire).
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Excellent! Glad you're happy! We've found here that you should lower your rear bump-stops by either 0.5" (33-inch tire) or 2" (35-inch tire).

i dont have rubbing cause i am using 32'' with 864 so i got more than 4'' lift but my car 6 clynder i need exuast system like borla did u know where can i found it ?

hoser i order the hi lift bracket :D did u try to change ur tires with the OEM toyota Jack ???
 
SALEH said:
i dont have rubbing cause i am using 32'' with 864 so i got more than 4'' lift but my car 6 clynder i need exuast system like borla did u know where can i found it ?

hoser i order the hi lift bracket :D did u try to change ur tires with the OEM toyota Jack ???

Sorry. No news on Borla. And I've been lucky. No flats on the 100. :)

LOWER those rear bump-stops by 1/2" though so you don't damage those N74L's.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
The best thing you can do is to start your own thread about what you are doing. That will actually help folks rather than your continuous rambling about how stupid I am. .

John, just in case it slipped your mind, this thread was done for exactly the reason you point out, and was started because of the way you post, and make yourself look as you have indicated.

If you keep misleading people, we will keep pointing out where you are incorrect, and why it is incorrect, and what to be wary of, because you have been incapable of doing so.
 
Here's how the thread started. My thanks to Mr. Slee for researching the shock differences per my request. Yer a good man!

****************************

"John, the N74L should work by swapping some of the bushings.

Measurements:

N74L compressed vs N101 = 1" longer
N74L extended vs N101 = 2.6" longer

The bottom bushing ID is 19mm but on the N101 the width is 45mm and the N74L is 40mm. So you would need to use the N101 bottom bushing.

The top pin is 17mm on the N101 and 14mm on the N74L. The index washer lip is 26mm on the N101 and 22mm on the N74L.

So on the top you need to use the N101's washers and hardware, but you need to use the poly bushings from the N74L.

So there you go, send the check."

****************************

So, I did what Slee asked....I sent him a check, and you-all know the rest (as many of you now are copying this sweet modification)! Enjoy! :beer:
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
So, I did what Slee asked....I sent him a check, and you-all know the rest (as many of you now are copying this sweet modification)! Enjoy! :beer:


No one disagree's on the mod, as we have been doing it for years, as I have said many times, but dont think there isnt some continuity in the threads to give you information , even if you cant absorb it, at least everyone else can.
 

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