Flange on Saginaw gearbox

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I used Crusieroutfitter's tube and needed to grind down the flange.
Im NOT worried about the core or other.

just my .02
 
Doh, I thought it was your flange that wasn't clearing...

Sorry, we probably have a terminology mix-up. I called it a 'flange' for lack of a better word. According to the following write-up, it is called a 'retaining collar':

Saginaw Box Rebuild - How To! - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

Anyway, mine won't fit in the 3" tube and I would need to grind it. Question answered, thanks all who chipped in. Kurt, I'll probably be ordering a tube shortly.
 
Sorry, we probably have a terminology mix-up. I called it a 'flange' for lack of a better word. According to the following write-up, it is called a 'retaining collar':

Gotcha, I refer to that as the spanner nut. As I mentioned earlier there is a different style of nut that has a much smaller major OD, it fits in the tube without any mods. That said I see no reason you can't slightly trim the larger style to fit.

129_0801_07_z+saginaw_steering_box+adjuster_plug.jpg



Anyway, mine won't fit in the 3" tube and I would need to grind it. Question answered, thanks all who chipped in. Kurt, I'll probably be ordering a tube shortly.

Sounds good, let me know. We've got plenty of those in stock and can ship them same day.
 
kit

Kurt---I think you got it right there-----kit looks good and very fairly priced--I guess I missed it when I did mine, I like the tube and plate and will probably go ahead and get them and upgrade mine later:hhmm:

I looked around quite a bit and other than self-fabbed I only saw a couple kits I liked and they were quite spendy and I was spending a lot on the Flaming River column and MOMO wheel I wanted for the legroom, the rest looked okay but not quite as beefy as I wanted

it's nice you can buy the pieces separate

nice finished look

Dear Santa ...if U could just :steer: by Kurts shop :lol:
 
I had the larger six sided nut as in the above pic and "knocked down" the high points/corners with grinder Did not have Kurt's tube but reinforced. I was/am eliminating the spud shaft. Unfortunately now I need a new u-joint as "spud" adapted 11/16" - 3/4" splines. Now I'm thinking of changing column cause..hell it's all apart now, and I have a tilt column laying around.

Bob in CO
 

I was looking for such a post in Chicago's build post before. That's the first crack I've seen there. I'm still not convinced I need more reinforcement there, but I'm going to take a 2nd look underneath. It seems like it would make sense to weld the x-member to the frame at that location.

The hole cut in the front is pretty clean. The rear is so ugly I'm kind of afraid to get a good look at it. I believe it was cut out with a torch. :sigh: I guess more work is in order. :sigh:
 
I was looking for such a post in Chicago's build post before. That's the first crack I've seen there. I'm still not convinced I need more reinforcement there, but I'm going to take a 2nd look underneath. It seems like it would make sense to weld the x-member to the frame at that location...

Searching here on Mud and Pirate may yield you some more photos, I know I've posted some that we've had in for repair over the years. Welding that crossmember to the frame won't solve the crack, the rivets are not breaking the actual cross-member is. Fact is, its possible the minute movement and twist allowed by the rivets in fact helps?
 
I had the larger six sided nut as in the above pic and "knocked down" the high points/corners with grinder Did not have Kurt's tube but reinforced. I was/am eliminating the spud shaft. Unfortunately now I need a new u-joint as "spud" adapted 11/16" - 3/4" splines. Now I'm thinking of changing column cause..hell it's all apart now, and I have a tilt column laying around.

Bob in CO

I guess there's at least three different configurations then. Mine is not a nut at all but a collar - it's not hexagonal, it's round. The diameter is 3.25 inches, and it sticks out a constant quarter of an inch past the gearbox body.
1203100733a.webp
 
truggier, Thats exactly how my rebuilt 4.25 turn box looked before I "narrowed" it.
 

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