FJ62 Oil Cooler / Coolant hose question

Joined
Jun 22, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Dallas, TX
Curious for thoughts about how sketchy this rubber coolant hose looks that is going to/from the Oil Cooler in attached photos. The hose is kind of crumbled on the edge outside up to the clamp as you can see in the photo looking at the cooler from underneath the vehicle. The hose also seems kind of gummy, swollen, and crumbly on the exterior coating inside of the clamp heading toward the front of the vehicle. I'm a novice, learning a lot, and I don't know if:
a) this is fairly high pressure once the vehicle is warm
b) it's high risk of rupturing at any time / don't drive it until fixing
c) medium risk / may rupture but be careful driving and watch it closely until fixing
d) medium/low risk

BTW... Here's the vehicle in link below. I'm the owner now - discovered the link after the fact and recognized the vehicle...ha. Will fill in details in a different thread but it's been solid / worthwhile despite the exterior wounds it had in the original post. Acquired summer '21 and moved it to TX. Fixing it up for fun and enjoying the challenge / learning process.
Montana Cruiser

Oil Cooler2.jpg
Oil Cooler1.jpg


Thanks.
Dave
 
Joined
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Messages
16,949
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Helena MT
my WAG is that is an original hose
I would plan on replacing all the hoses, there are alot, maybe 15+ hoses on a 3FE
if not using the OEM style clamps and using worm drive clamps be cautious as you can crush the heater pipes
 

2mbb

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I agree.

Your truck needs a good cleaning underneath. Where I live we have wash it yourself car washes. Some of the bays have long wands on rollers that allow you to wash under the car. Or I've had good luck using engine cleaner products that come in an aerosol can. Of course if you have access to a steam cleaner that's even better.

I'm not sure about OEM hose availability for the FJ62. Some but not all are still available from Toyota. Others can be found in catalogs such as the one linked below.


Good luck.
 

2mbb

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These are the Gates v-belt and coolant hose part numbers for the 1989 Land Cruiser. I counted 23 hoses on the Toyota Parts Diagram for radiator, oil cooler, front and rear heaters, so the Gates list is not complete.

1666961489490.png
 

ToyotaMatt

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Curious for thoughts about how sketchy this rubber coolant hose looks that is going to/from the Oil Cooler in attached photos. The hose is kind of crumbled on the edge outside up to the clamp as you can see in the photo looking at the cooler from underneath the vehicle. The hose also seems kind of gummy, swollen, and crumbly on the exterior coating inside of the clamp heading toward the front of the vehicle. I'm a novice, learning a lot, and I don't know if:
a) this is fairly high pressure once the vehicle is warm
b) it's high risk of rupturing at any time / don't drive it until fixing
c) medium risk / may rupture but be careful driving and watch it closely until fixing
d) medium/low risk

BTW... Here's the vehicle in link below. I'm the owner now - discovered the link after the fact and recognized the vehicle...ha. Will fill in details in a different thread but it's been solid / worthwhile despite the exterior wounds it had in the original post. Acquired summer '21 and moved it to TX. Fixing it up for fun and enjoying the challenge / learning process.
Montana Cruiser

View attachment 3152644View attachment 3152643

Thanks.
Dave
my WAG is that is an original hose
I would plan on replacing all the hoses, there are alot, maybe 15+ hoses on a 3FE
if not using the OEM style clamps and using worm drive clamps be cautious as you can crush the heater pipes
I agree.

Your truck needs a good cleaning underneath. Where I live we have wash it yourself car washes. Some of the bays have long wands on rollers that allow you to wash under the car. Or I've had good luck using engine cleaner products that come in an aerosol can. Of course if you have access to a steam cleaner that's even better.

I'm not sure about OEM hose availability for the FJ62. Some but not all are still available from Toyota. Others can be found in catalogs such as the one linked below.


Good luck.
Mine look the same. If you find the hose replacements please post here :)



i can use other aggressive verbs then
sketchy here as a revised updated new title to this TECH thread ..... :rolleyes:


- here is your NEEDS LIST , follow it and your set up for
success ,


- take any other easy path to the TEq DARK Side , and you will be charging your cell phone on the side of the road in the sooner near future for sure .....



- find your local NAPA ,

- ask them for there premium grade , or as i ask them , give me your most expensive ----- heater hose


- then go to your local toyota dealer , don't call by phone on this topic or you will loose the parts game they will play with you ........


- show them this diagram and show them your 17 digit VIN #


- order everything in RED INK , don't skip anything now .......to save .69 cents or i will know and unleash my solid mud buddies " THE T-TEN BEZZLE POLICE " on you and your 62 ........




- scoop up 2 gallons of Factory Full Strength RED fluid while you are there too , if the clown behind the counter mentions the 50/50 oem pink solution is ok in your FJ62 your being lied to because it cost more , and they like to cost you more for reasons that would get your TECH thread seriously OFF Topic , so lets not go there


- at NAPA pick up the $1.99 blue plastic 1 time use Chinese flushing T
kit too ....


- don't buy any CLAMPS from NAPA please / POOR CHOICE if you do .....



- then :
 

HMP

Joined
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Messages
166
Location
Winston Salem, NC
Im going to be real honest - Im very confused by that last post.
Im also interested as Im about to put in a new radiatora nd have new Toyota coolant (not oil cooler) hoses ordered.
I asked Toyota about the oil cooler parts...they were WILDLY expensive. HUNDREDS for one. And there were several.
 
Joined
Dec 2, 2002
Messages
16,949
Location
Helena MT
oil cooler hoses are not hundreds of dollars, the parts guy was giving you a line
all the hoses you'll need should be $200??? total
if you are going thru the trouble of draining the system, and the rad is out, change them all.
what Matt was trying to say was don't cheap out, if you are changing them change all of them with quality parts.
some of the hoses are just straight pieces of hose others are formed.
avoid the normal work drive clamps, they will deform the heater piping
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Dallas, TX
Thx for the thoughts and guidance. The more I looked at the situation, the more I realized it was a dumb question...the hose is in terrible shape and I probably won't drive it until it's fixed. I ordered a new OEM hose this morning since they are available. No hurry since it's not a DD. The clamps, after getting grime off look ok and I assume I can reuse them.

PO who started restoration installed a new radiator and used Gates on the few hoses he replaced - this just didn't happen to be one of them. Indeed the gates stuff seems nice. The belts on this rig are all gates. But 23 hoses....? :arghh:

As for the grime factor, yeah... the old gal clearly led a rough life and I've tried a couple times to pressure wash (carefully) but haven't found a wash location with extended wands on rollers - that would be nice. Given various sensors and wiring and age, I try not to just blast away uncontrolled. So, I just get under it and keep cleaning away by hand with towels, scrub brushes, degreaser, and small plastic paint scrapers from walmart. Honestly, the crust and grime (it's little like tar sand mix) is so thick and hard that even with a couple rounds of pressure washing there's still a lot of grime. Ha. So, degriming by hand is a mindless activity for when I have nothing better to do, or I'm in between bigger projects. At some point, maybe I'll use steam if I grow frustrated.

The oil cooler itself... yeah., they are expensive. The hoses seem reasonable.
 
Joined
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Messages
13
Location
Dallas, TX
And here's my update on how it ended up going from Bozeman to DFW:

I’ve been mostly a lurker on IH8MUD for the last 15 months but stumbled across the link above (Craigslist MT 222k) and realized I am now the owner of this vehicle. I thought it might be interesting to document what’s happened with the vehicle since the listing in 2020.

Luckily, everything in craigslist link above hunts with what I discovered in the process of buying it (except for the fire / acid speculation, which I don’t think was the case).

So, here’s the timeline and what I know.

The PPO or PPPO is referenced in the CL post and my understanding of the backstory was the same. Age / other issues / what-have-you caused vehicle neglect. The PO (local to Gallatin valley at the time) bought it to restore since he already had experience restoring a couple other Cruisers (FJ80s). He started the restoration process in early 2021 and then his wife was transferred. He put this cruiser up on craigslist since he already had 3 or 4 other vehicles and family to get moved across the country.

This is where I come in. I’d hit a point where I decided I needed a tactile hobby (I can only run and read so much, and I sit at a computer all day). Having had two Toyotas in my teens and 20s, and two GXs over the years, I’m a fan of Toyota’s design and engineering. So, it made me consider a 62 as a target – I love how they look and the insane toughness. I wanted something that needed work I could handle, wasn’t priced ridiculously but wasn’t a lost cause either.

I did a lot of craigslist searching and stumbled into this one and it looked promising from the standpoint of being relatively rust-free and mechanical improved from its lowest point. The body and interior were still rough, for sure. Spent a couple hours on the phone wiht the PO and then my son and I flew up to Bozeman from DFW, spent a day driving it (still with sketchy brakes) goofing around Bozeman, and agreed with PO to buy it on July 3, 2021. Stoked!

Here were the main updates the PO performed before I took the baton:
4-core radiator + cap​
Aisin Water Pump​
Alternator​
New Battery​
New Battery Tray​
Belts (Gates)​
Aisin Fan clutch and Fan​
ARB IPF wiring loom for the headlights​
Driver's side low beam headlight​
Mirrors (aftermarket)​
Front turn indicators (aftermarket)​
Rear turn indicators​
Front Valance​
Air filter​
31" Falken Wild Peak tires​
Upper and lower radiator hoses​
Battery Terminals​
Carpet by ACC​
Fan Shroud cut, refinished, and painted​
Fusible link​
Distributor cap​

It took a few weeks to work out the shipping at a reasonable price, but I knew that it would not be welcome into the garage with the volume of fluids dripping from it. So, I had it shipped to Dadja’s Automotive in the DFW area to solve immediate obvious leaks, work on brakes, etc and get it passed for state inspection.

Work performed by Dadjas:
Knuckle rebuild​
Front brakes​
Oil Pan Seal​
Rear Pinion Seal​
R-134 conversion​
Hi-Beam wiring fix​
New windshield​
Adjustment to solve rough idle​
Oil/Filter​
State inspection (It passed the DFW auto inspection regime / racket!)​

I finally pulled it into my garage Labor Day weekend, 2021. Since that time, here’s what I’ve been working on (it’s not a DD). I’ve really enjoyed researching / problem solving, and this site is a huge help.

Installed a lot of missing interior bits, minor trim parts, screws, etc.​
Several rounds of de-funking the interior of bad mojo including wet dog smell (a lot of dog hair in every crevice). Cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned some more to make it tolerable to drive over the last year. Seats, headliner, etc. In the long run, upholstery needed to be replaced (per below) as it was mostly trashed, as was some of the front foam.​
Degreasing / de-crusting the undercarriage (mostly by hand) – ongoing to this day when I feel like doing a mindless task.​
Replaced broken master power window switch with new one from Switchdoctor. Only sold in Brown so I used SEM paint to color match it to grey interior and hand painted the labeling to silver​
Installed rear wiper arm and motor​
Installed new fuel filter (to solve hard hot starts)​
Installed new fuel pressure regulator (to solve hard hot starts)​
Installed new PCV valve (to solve hard hot starts)​
Pulled and cleaned cold start injector​
Installed Hella H4 low beams (still kind of tepid light output but better than Sylvania’s it had)​
Rear diff fluid change​
Front diff fluid change​
Transfer case fluid change​
CCOT “chrome” replacement mirrors – they did vibrate a lot at first but then settled in decently, imo, and now have minimal vibration. Price to value seems about right on these.​
Installed wheel spacers because existing non-OEM steel wheels were rubbing tie rod ends​
Replaced Tie Rod Ends / Drag Link and Tubes (555) – Cruiser Outfitters​
Installed OME Steering Stabilizer​
Installed KYB shocks (low cost stop-gap until I’m ready to figure out suspension – needs new leaf springs / bushings)​
Installed Power antenna mast since antenna motor still worked (one of my favorite 1980s gadgets)​
Pulled door cards, scrubbed, and cleaned / lubricated power window tracks and mechanicals – all work – slowly, as expected​
Refurbished license plate holder and re-established grounding so light works​
Fixed parking brake (missing pins / cotter pins)​
Replaced starter with Denso remanufactured​
Refurbed front and rear seat framing and reupholstered interior with Mosley leather option and new SOR foam bottoms (Plug: this leather is terrific – and now I have new car smell!)​
ATF drain / fill​

Potential “next up” candidates:
Fall / Winter 2022 project may be dent pulling with stud welder dent puller. Body panels have virtually no rust. I’d rather pull dents and keep it original than replace with new or replacement stock, if possible.​
Reseal gutters​
Refurb window felts so I can get window tinting and cut down TX summer heat​

Things I’m mentally sparring over for 2023 and beyond:
AC work – dodgy compressor – locks up intermittently​
Suspension – lift / springs / etc. OME vs Dobinsons 2”​
Bumpers – fix dents and leave as chrome, or replace with more rugged option (likely the latter) and move spare tire to the bumper. Incidentally, it’s rolling with the original Dunlop spare right now. Hope I don’t get a flat.​
Paint - this is such an enigma. Parts of the paint are not that bad aside from a lot of gravel chips. The hood paint was totally gone, so I rattled canned some Duplicolor – GM Storm Grey on the hood which turned out as a tolerable match to tide things over until I figure out whether to have a reasonable respray on the hood, front fenders, and roof, or just repaint the whole thing someday.​
Wheels / Tires – maybe 32-33” w/ 16s​

In summary, I bought it to use it and just have fun – it likely won’t see a whole lot of offroad action aside from some occasional rugged TX ranchland. I’m not going for a showpiece restoration but want to be a solid rig. So, far I’ve put about 1k miles on it just driving it around DFW and had zero issues (knock on wood).

All in all, I’m having a blast with the challenges of fixing this up, and learning new things.

cruiser left.jpg


cruiser right.jpg
 

HMP

Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Messages
166
Location
Winston Salem, NC
Thx for the thoughts and guidance. The more I looked at the situation, the more I realized it was a dumb question...the hose is in terrible shape and I probably won't drive it until it's fixed. I ordered a new OEM hose this morning since they are available. No hurry since it's not a DD. The clamps, after getting grime off look ok and I assume I can reuse them.

PO who started restoration installed a new radiator and used Gates on the few hoses he replaced - this just didn't happen to be one of them. Indeed the gates stuff seems nice. The belts on this rig are all gates. But 23 hoses....? :arghh:

As for the grime factor, yeah... the old gal clearly led a rough life and I've tried a couple times to pressure wash (carefully) but haven't found a wash location with extended wands on rollers - that would be nice. Given various sensors and wiring and age, I try not to just blast away uncontrolled. So, I just get under it and keep cleaning away by hand with towels, scrub brushes, degreaser, and small plastic paint scrapers from walmart. Honestly, the crust and grime (it's little like tar sand mix) is so thick and hard that even with a couple rounds of pressure washing there's still a lot of grime. Ha. So, degriming by hand is a mindless activity for when I have nothing better to do, or I'm in between bigger projects. At some point, maybe I'll use steam if I grow frustrated.

The oil cooler itself... yeah., they are expensive. The hoses seem reasonable.
Have PN for the oil cooler hoses you got?
Got a new radiator the other day (aluminum one) and will be swapping it out soon and doing new hoses etc
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Dallas, TX
gotta be honest... not 100% sure if I'm getting the right part now. The hose I ordered is 99555-30280. It's labeled as hose that connects oil cooler to coolant pipe (which describes the part I need accurately) but yet the years listed for this part only go to '87. Yet I have a 90. Further compounding the confusion, the schematic shows the exact same cooler I have, as near as I can tell. I guess I'll find out once I get it. May work out, or may be a learning lesson.
 
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Joined
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All good. Thanks for copying the table and diagrams above. MUD is so vast, I missed those. The first diagram looks like my setup for the 62, at least for the bottom half which is where my immediate concern lies. The "decoder" matrix is very helpful and leads me to believe I've got the right part 15777 = 99555 30280.
 

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The toyota part number for the FJ62 hose is different, but I think that hose cross references to a 5/8" ID straight heater hose. I suppose the lengths of the hoses might be different from FJ60 to FJ62 since the metal pipes are a different between these models. Or maybe the FJ62 number is a standard length where you cut to fit ("L=210" is Length is 210 mm).

1667231516764.png
 

ToyotaMatt

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Curious for thoughts about how sketchy this rubber coolant hose looks that is going to/from the Oil Cooler in attached photos. The hose is kind of crumbled on the edge outside up to the clamp as you can see in the photo looking at the cooler from underneath the vehicle. The hose also seems kind of gummy, swollen, and crumbly on the exterior coating inside of the clamp heading toward the front of the vehicle. I'm a novice, learning a lot, and I don't know if:
a) this is fairly high pressure once the vehicle is warm
b) it's high risk of rupturing at any time / don't drive it until fixing
c) medium risk / may rupture but be careful driving and watch it closely until fixing
d) medium/low risk

BTW... Here's the vehicle in link below. I'm the owner now - discovered the link after the fact and recognized the vehicle...ha. Will fill in details in a different thread but it's been solid / worthwhile despite the exterior wounds it had in the original post. Acquired summer '21 and moved it to TX. Fixing it up for fun and enjoying the challenge / learning process.
Montana Cruiser

View attachment 3152644View attachment 3152643

Thanks.
Dave



The toyota part number for the FJ62 hose is different, but I think that hose cross references to a 5/8" ID straight heater hose. I suppose the lengths of the hoses might be different from FJ60 to FJ62 since the metal pipes are a different between these models. Or maybe the FJ62 number is a standard length where you cut to fit ("L=210" is Length is 210 mm).

View attachment 3155565
View attachment 3154985View attachment 3154986View attachment 3154987View attachment 3154990View attachment 3154992


those are for a 60 series, I'm thinking some of the heater hoses are different on the 62 series, plus the ones that go to the throttle body
Have PN for the oil cooler hoses you got?
Got a new radiator the other day (aluminum one) and will be swapping it out soon and doing new hoses etc


- i have Reproduced the complete ENGINE WIRE No. 4 , including the rubber sending unit cover / cap / boot ...


- see ,

- this is the main issue and cause here , look at carefully the
2nd TECH. photo posted in this thread , the OIL FILTER right above when removed for a regular oil change , when un-spun looses ALL its oil , 1qt almost down and out all over the ENGINE WIRE No. 4 and the OIL COOLER HOSE in question re; the original thread starters question ........



- Oil Pressure Sending Unit Sensor Rubber Boot / Cover Cap & Sub Harness Engine Room Wire #4 Part # 82124-90A01 Restoration & Repair Kit BJ70 HJ60 BJ60 FJ60 BJ42 Fj40 FJ55 FJ43 - VintageTEqParts.com - https://vintageteqparts.com/products/copy-of-water-coolant-temperature-sensor-sending-unit-union-harness-repair-kit-rubber-boot?_pos=1&_sid=94e030d81&_ss=r





1667362327954.png



1667362309033.png




1667362357887.png
 
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+1 for Gates. Especially for that hose, nothing special needed.

The PITA hose is the rad to pump one on the pump side... it's buried beneath the AC compressor and PS pump. I believe it's 16572 in the graphic above. Don't forget about that one and best of luck. Here's a pic with the accessories removed:
 

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