FJ62 3FE Rebuild Conundrum (1 Viewer)

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It is surprising that you are experiencing the problems you are at 156K miles, but...I also don't remember ever driving/pushing our 62 to do 80mph except downhill.

I never really pushed her. It did 80 very easily. I didn't floor it to get there or anything - just open highway cruising. It hummed along nicely at very low rpms

It is a dramatic difference. But...as someone else mentioned, if the engine is no longer reliable, the change won't help...and you'd spend $7K on the 5-speed conversion if you spent a dime.
Yep, 7-9k seems to be the range for the trans, mods, and rebuilt transfer case. BUT - if the engine was rebuilt correctly it would be reliable again? You mean if I put a 5-speed on the current, tired engine, correct?


Sanity steps in on me about that time, and I'm left sticking with the 3FE and A440. But I don't need mine as a daily driver. I can retire mine to restored cream puff collector status.

Yeah, I had an 09 V8 4Runner that I sold to simplify my life. It was easier for me to sell than the Cruiser. It's been so reliable for so long and my driving is limited overall so I thought I would go back to the LC. Pff - simplify my life! No, I'm not a major wrench turner and all. I don't have the background or time to be screaming and hurling tools through the wall of my garage in furious anger - at least with my DD. I might go back to my original plan of a third car for the family and keeping the LC fully stock like you have.

Thanks!
 
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I never really pushed her. It did 80 very easily. I didn't floor it to get there or anything - just open highway cruising. It hummed along nicely at very low rpms


Yep, 7-9k seems to be the range for the trans, mods, and rebuilt transfer case. BUT - if the engine was rebuilt correctly it would be reliable again? You mean if I put a 5-speed on the current, tired engine, correct?




Yeah, I had an 09 V8 4Runner that I sold to simplify my life. It was easier for me to sell than the Cruiser. It's been so reliable for so long and my driving is limited overall so I thought I would go back to the LC. Pff - simplify my life! No, I'm not a major wrench turner and all. I don't have the background or time to be screaming and hurling tools through the wall of my garage in furious anger - at least with my DD. I might go back to my original plan of a third car for the family and keeping the LC fully stock like you have.

Thanks!

Perhaps I ran at 80mph like you if the Cruiser felt up to it. I just wince now thinking of multiple hours of 80mph. The last significant road trips I would have done were in 2001 to L.A. and back...or in 2003 to Telluride and back. That trip (with two grade school kids, the wifey, and loaded vehicle and roof rack) told me it was the last time. We moved on to Sequoias after that for such trips.

In a 3FE, if still solid or rebuilt, the 5-speed makes a dramatic impression. It is geared quite low, though, so it is not uncommon to begin from a stop in 2nd gear. But it spools up very nicely compared to the A440 through 3rd and 4th. 65-70mph is comfortable. Perhaps the benchmark to know whether an engine would deliver with a 5-speed would be if the engine is still within Toyota specs on all six cylinders for compression and leak down.
 
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or in 2003 to Telluride and back.
That is a tough drive with the 3FE and A440. So you know what made me question the whole thing to begin with. It's weird to white knuckle it because you are going so slow. So it's come down to A) sell it and buy a very low mile 2007 LC or LX (100k or lower) B) keep it with a rebuilt motor and 5-speed C) Buy a 2004-2007 LC, LX, or GX (150k miles or lower) and keep the Cruiser getting to the rebuild when I can. I'm leaning heavily on A and C at this point
 
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That is a tough drive with the 3FE and A440. So you know what made me question the whole thing to begin with. It's weird to white knuckle it because you are going so slow. So it's come down to A) sell it and buy a very low mile 2007 LC or LX (100k or lower) B) keep it with a rebuilt motor and 5-speed C) Buy a 2004-2007 LC, LX, or GX (150k miles or lower) and keep the Cruiser getting to the rebuild when I can. I'm leaning heavily on A and C at this point

I agree with you on A and C. Personally I would be willing to accept more than 100K on an LC or LX. They're modern Toyotas; just getting their wind at 100K or so. I'm in a similar paradox, but with more flexibility that you, perhaps. Our '04 Sequoia is the wifey's drive, and it's turned 300K and still runs great! But we've maintained it well. I always have in mind how to respond if it goes down hard, though. It's worth next to nothing by KBB whether running or not now. We would start from scratch on a replacement, and those you name would be on my list to consider.
 
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I agree with you on A and C. Personally I would be willing to accept more than 100K on an LC or LX. They're modern Toyotas; just getting their wind at 100K or so. I'm in a similar paradox, but with more flexibility that you, perhaps. Our '04 Sequoia is the wifey's drive, and it's turned 300K and still runs great! But we've maintained it well. I always have in mind how to respond if it goes down hard, though. It's worth next to nothing by KBB whether running or not now. We would start from scratch on a replacement, and those you name would be on my list to consider.
Wow on the Sequoia! It's got the 4.7L 2UZ-FE I imagine (pre-vvt). From what I can read and my experience with it on a 4Runner it is known as the most refined and reliable engine Toyota ever made. That is really saying a lot. That's why I'm possibly looking for trucks in the 06-07 years because it seems to be the peak for that engine. That engine is supposedly built for 400k. Since it's not quite the keeper like 100 and earlier LCs I imagine it would make a lot of sense to jump to another Sequoia with 100k on it for a good price as opposed to rebuilding that engine.
 
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Wow on the Sequoia! It's got the 4.7L 2UZ-FE I imagine (pre-vvt). From what I can read and my experience with it on a 4Runner it is known as the most refined and reliable engine Toyota ever made. That is really saying a lot. That's why I'm possibly looking for trucks in the 06-07 years because it seems to be the peak for that engine. That engine is supposedly built for 400k. Since it's not quite the keeper like 100 and earlier LCs I imagine it would make a lot of sense to jump to another Sequoia with 100k on it for a good price as opposed to rebuilding that engine.

Our '04 Sequoia was one of the best vehicles I've ever owned, it was our cross country family hauler that could pack a TON of sh*t in it. Loved that motor, it would push that heavy ride around quite strongly with ease. I turned it in to get a 2016 Tundra, they (predictably) gave me almost nothing for it. Not one issue with it in 13 years and was still running like when I drove it off the showroom floor.

That motor would be the shizz in a 60/62.
 
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Our '04 Sequoia was one of the best vehicles I've ever owned, it was our cross country family hauler that could pack a TON of sh*t in it. Loved that motor, it would push that heavy ride around quite strongly with ease. I turned it in to get a 2016 Tundra, they (predictably) gave me almost nothing for it. Not one issue with it in 13 years and was still running like when I drove it off the showroom floor.

That motor would be the shizz in a 60/62.

The only down side is a timing belt instead of a chain. I also hear that a starter replacement is a huge job. I've never heard of anybody trying to salvage and use one of those engines for a 60/62.

Our other Sequoia is a 2016. Of course bigger vehicle and engine, but a significantly more powerful/impressive engine...like your Tundra.

Surprisingly, I hear that Sequoias are not big sellers these days, topping out in about 2004. Perhaps one of those used could be an option for the OP.
 

60Works

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Adjust the valves on your 3FE and do the compression check again. Even shops that should know better are unaware of the solid lifters. They set the valves too tight.

The overdrive on the 440F is very deep, much deeper than the 55F, allowing high highway speeds. If you swap to an 55F you will be under geared with tires smaller than 33". A 55F is a great transmission but it's really a 4 speed with an extra granny low. Great for trails, not as great on the highway. 3.70 gears and 31" tires is a good combo. You'll find yourself starting from 2nd much of the time then really wanting a 6th gear.

A 55F is better than a 440F for power but it will not be sufficient to keep up with traffic at the altitudes you drive.
 
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brownbear

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I think the only way to affordably get an engine is by doing it all yourself. Which is outside of most folks ability. So conversions get expensive quick.

I am no fan of the 3FE. I owned a FJ80 with your combo. And it was slow, and burned a lot of gas. I sold it to get a Ford Excursion with a V8. It weights 2000 lbs more than my 80 series, also has solid axles and leaf sprung, etc and gets about 5 mpg more, go figure.

Toyota is known for reliable engines, but not fuel economy. And no more reliable than todays competitors.

If you think a frankenchevy will only last 60 k miles have a look at on Craigslist, or something similar for the 300k mile LS engines out there. They also pull lots of miles and are not the engines of the past. If you found a used low mile engine as a take out of wreaked truck it would not be as expensive as a rebuild of the 3fe.

But it is putting an off brand engine into the cruiser... so I understand. But it would be so much nicer.
 
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Adjust the valves on your 3FE and do the compression check again. Even shops that should know better are unaware of the solid lifters. They set the valves too tight.

Could you explain that to me? I don't quite understand the solid lifter part. What is about a solid lifter and having the valves too tight that could cause the problem? Thank you

Thanks for the additional insight on the 55. That makes sense. I sort of read that between the lines, but didn't hear it articulated that way before
 
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I am no fan of the 3FE. I owned a FJ80 with your combo. And it was slow, and burned a lot of gas. I sold it to get a Ford Excursion with a V8. It weights 2000 lbs more than my 80 series, also has solid axles and leaf sprung, etc and gets about 5 mpg more, go figure.

That's crazy

Toyota is known for reliable engines, but not fuel economy. And no more reliable than todays competitors.

I would still say Toyota and Honda are in a league of their own when it comes to reliability - especially for average drivers that don't pay attention to routine maintenance. The Land Cruiser takes that a step farther, no? I don't know any other vehicle that is engineered for 30 years of life (overbuilt and under-stressed seems to be the key). I know Ford and Chevy have come a long way in the last 10 years, but their value plummets rather quickly. The ratio of Toyotas and Hondas on the road to the amount I've ever seen broken down on the highway is really low. I hear people with very new Jeeps and Dodge trucks with serious failures under 80k all the time
 
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All solid lifters mean is that they are not self adjusting. Generally as you rack up the miles the clearance becomes less because the valve seats wear in - on most motors.

If the clearance is too small the cam holds the valves open for a longer duration. This will prevent the motor from building full compression if air is leaking out the valves at the wrong time.

I believe very few automotive motors built today have solid lifters as it's a maintenance item and ain't nobody got time for that in 2020.
 

60Works

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Valve adjustment can affect compression test numbers. Because the 3FE has solid lifters and most mechanics are unfamiliar with even the concept of solid lifters, there is a chance your valves have not been set properly. Adjusting the valves is not very expensive, so adjusting them correctly then retesting compression might change the diagnosis of needing a complete rebuild.

Short version; $300 to the right Land Cruiser specialist might resolve all your issues and you can drive another 100k miles without major work.

Or it might not and you're out another $300.

To definitely have a go/no go diagnosis for your engine would give you peace of mind that you're making the correct choice.

"If you are having a hard time making a decision, you need more information."
 

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