FJ60 Holley Sniper Conversion (1 Viewer)

Dr. John

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When you say "top of the dizzy", do you mean one of the breather lines on the cap? If so, that is wrong. The Sniper's vacuum advance port is connected to the "inside" vacuum advance diaphragm on the dizzy. With the Sniper (and I presume you have removed all the HAC parts) there is no connection to the "outer" advance diaphragm.

Funny story: I got called out a couple of weeks ago, by a moderator and a member on the Holley Sniper forum, for using the term "dizzy".....Not Professional! He actually corrected it in my post.:rolleyes:
 
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When you say "top of the dizzy", do you mean one of the breather lines on the cap? If so, that is wrong. The Sniper's vacuum advance port is connected to the "inside" vacuum advance diaphragm on the dizzy. With the Sniper (and I presume you have removed all the HAC parts) there is no connection to the "outer" advance diaphragm.

Funny story: I got called out a couple of weeks ago, by a moderator and a member on the Holley Sniper forum, for using the term "dizzy".....Not Professional! He actually corrected it in my post.:rolleyes:
Ok. Yes I have a vacuum line currently running from the top of the distributor cap to the VAP port on the base of the Sniper. So should I move the vac line to one of the two external connection that come off of the distributor diaphragm? If so, do I plug the second connection on the diaphragm and also the other hole in top of distributor cap?
 

MoaByte

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Ported vac from sniper (right) to inner port on diaphragm. The other port on diaphragm can be left open or capped, doesn't matter. The port on the distributor cap would benefit if you connected it to weak vacuum on the air filter assembly. It gets hot in there and condensation will make problems in your distributor otherwise. You also should vent you PCV and charcoal canister to vac. No other vacuum lines needed except your brake booster.
 

MoaByte

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HELP!!. I have installed the Sniper on my '86 FJ60. I have also desmogged. Running a stock dizzy. Went with the "in-tank" fuel pump from Moseley.....Getting plenty of fuel but it wont fire. Keeps getting flooded. Im a backyard mechanic so i'm stumped. One question I have is where to hook the two small vacuum advance lines (guessing that's what they are) that come off the side of the dizzy (the rusty diaphragm looking thing). I wish someone had some pics of where the remaining vacuum lines go.... Any help is greatly appreciated.
I think you have an ignition issue.. it will run without any vac lines so long as you have spark and timing isn't too far off. If the idle is way too high, shut it off and find the vacuum leak, otherwise let it get to 160° and set your idle to 750 rpm. (I had mine set at 650, but it would stall after down shifting to a stop, Holley Tech straightened me out).
 
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I think you have an ignition issue.. it will run without any vac lines so long as you have spark and timing isn't too far off. If the idle is way too high, shut it off and find the vacuum leak, otherwise let it get to 160° and set your idle to 750 rpm. (I had mine set at 650, but it would stall after down shifting to a stop, Holley Tech straightened me out).
Thanks for all of the help! Heading home to see if I can get it running.
 
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Great write up! I am in the middle of a Sniper conversion. Have a question about pre-filter before the fuel pump - I mounted mine a little further back, closer to the tank. Does it need to be closer to the fuel pump, like you have mounted yours? Or does it even make a difference? Just curious.
 

MoaByte

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Great write up! I am in the middle of a Sniper conversion. Have a question about pre-filter before the fuel pump - I mounted mine a little further back, closer to the tank. Does it need to be closer to the fuel pump, like you have mounted yours? Or does it even make a difference? Just curious.
I have an in-tank pump. First one was destroyed by a few metal filings in my tank. It also clogged the itty-bitty Holley filter. I now use a much larger metal filter (same specs). The spec filter is probably too restrictive to use before the pump but the OEM filter might be just fine so long as you put a spec filter after the pump. I put mine where the OEM filter used to set on the fender. I got a small fitting leak and it was spraying fuel. It is debatable if it wouldn't be safer mounted underneath. If I had to do this all over again, I'd do the surge tank method.
 

Dr. John

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With surge tank (PowerSurge) using stock filter in front of the stock mechanical pump and 10 micron final filter between surge tank and the Sniper. Eazy peazy.

PXL_20210220_202946688~2.jpg
 
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Great write up! I am in the middle of a Sniper conversion. Have a question about pre-filter before the fuel pump - I mounted mine a little further back, closer to the tank. Does it need to be closer to the fuel pump, like you have mounted yours? Or does it even make a difference? Just curious.
Some where in the line works.
 
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When you hooked up the HEI distributor - the BATT wire goes straight to the battery, direct connection, correct? Is that an inline fuse on the BATT wire as well? Do you recommend I use one of those? This is my first time working with a DUI distributor, so want to make sure I get it right!

EDIT: After doing some reading, looks like I plug the BATT wire into a 12v ignition. I had planned to use the coil switch 12v for the pink wire on the Sniper - So my question I suppose is - Do I tie in the BATT wire from Distributor, into pink wire from Sniper, and tie them both together into a 12v ignition source? Seems easiest to plug right into the wiring harness of the coil switch 12v (since I have removed igniter and coil, I have empty plug). But looking for confirmation here.
 
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Dr. John

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The switched 12V, that previously went to the coil, can be used for the pink wire feed because it just trips a relay in the Sniper. I would NOT use that for the DUI 12V because it is a very light gauge wire and might provide "iffy"(engineering term) current to the distributor. I used that switched 12V wire to trip an external relay that feeds BOTH the pink wire and the DUI.
 
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Roger that! I appreciate the advice and input! Thankyou!

Can you recommend a relay, similar or same as what you used?
 

Dr. John

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I went a little overboard and installed this BP Automotive relay/fuse box. It's also used to feed aux lights, audio system, compressor, etc.

PXL_20210220_202917326.png


One of these (below), from Amazon, would work just as well for just the Sniper and DUI. I like that they have a built-in fuse.

Nilight 50023R 5 Pack 30A Fuse Relay car Truck Socket kit-30A Switch Harness Set-12V DC 4-Pin SPST Automotive 14 AWG Hot Wires​

 
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Based off of this diagram - I am assuming I would wire the coil 12v into the 86 Positive switch? The rest of relay would be as is, with device (dizzy BATT) going to 87?

I am such an amateur when it comes to electrical.
 
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Sweet! I am so close to being able to fire it up. Learning from scratch, but so far so good. Thanks for the help with my questions!
 

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